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John, I just rolled back up the screen and noted what looks like the second track for the yard is coming off the start of the outside curve.  Is this an added on stub siding or the second yard track?

I believe my bump out allowed for both yard entrance tracks to come off of the double slip switch which would allow for a longer grade.  Please refresh this old man's memory.

@Tom Tee posted:

It's just a lot of words.  I would be glad to stop by and cut in the 1/2" step for you.  Should take less than an hour. Nothing in my previous post will affect the rate of the grade percentage.

If you let me loose there I might just back up the start of the vertical curve transition to the slip switch and further reduce the grade percentage .

Well, it was a lot of words!   With that switch removed, I could start the grade earlier, that's not a bad plan.

@Tom Tee posted:

So, the old man (your's truly) is not totally out to lunch, yet!!   Any thoughts as to backing up the start of the incline? 

If you come off the slip switch with an immediate right hand switch instead of the left hand you will eliminate the "S" curve and extend the dual tracks.

I fooled around with that, but the angle the switch comes off still gives me an S-curve as I have to avoid the edge of the table anyway.  My table representation is not "quite" real, I may have to fine tune it.

John, How about a wide radius RH Ross curved switch butted up against the slip switch? 

You just need to see how many degrees of curvature their widest curved switch has compared to how many degrees of curvature is needed  coming off the slip switch then determine how many degrees of curvature you can remove from the curved switch if needed. Ross switches lend themselves readily to serious surgery

Mark, that is just my way of developing job security. 

@Tom Tee posted:

John, How about a wide radius RH Ross curved switch butted up against the slip switch? 

You just need to see how many degrees of curvature their widest curved switch has compared to how many degrees of curvature is needed  coming off the slip switch then determine how many degrees of curvature you can remove from the curved switch if needed. Ross switches lend themselves readily to serious surgery

Mark, that is just my way of developing job security. 

Excellent point, Tom!  

In staring at the angles depicted above I was nudged into another direction.  As one who builds primarily with standard sized turnouts sometimes I come across a situation where a custom turnout can ease the track alignment.

Working off the angles shown above lead me to consider the idea of a shallow wye or a custom turnout.   I have been using custom turnouts on an infrequent basis for many  years.  Examples follow:

This juncture of the track centerline approaching a TT proved awkward with both a numbered switch and a normal curved turnout.  So, in three rail parlance, a 0180"/0264" made the flow nice and smooth.

IMG_9458

So also in another situation,  when a busy module was added to an existing RR nothing off the shelf seemed to work.  So an usual critter from  a custom fabricator made it work.

IMG_9461

I have seen examples of Hikel layout Service doing similar work in 3 rail using Ross frogs.  Just a thought to tuck in your file.

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Last edited by Tom Tee
@Tom Tee posted:

John, How about a wide radius RH Ross curved switch butted up against the slip switch? 

You just need to see how many degrees of curvature their widest curved switch has compared to how many degrees of curvature is needed  coming off the slip switch then determine how many degrees of curvature you can remove from the curved switch if needed. Ross switches lend themselves readily to serious surgery

Mark, that is just my way of developing job security. 

The switch is the #100 11 degree switch.  I swapped the #101 shown previously for the #100, it looks like a better fit.  As for changing the angle of the Ross switch, I don't think I want to try that, I don't see any easy way to accomplish that.  I do see that I could easily destroy a perfectly good new switch in the attempt.

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We've been discussing that.  My initial idea was some faux concrete supports, but that may change.  I tried to leave plenty of "meat" on the edges so any reasonable solution would work  I will probably also trim the splice blocks that join the sections back from the edge to allow a support right at that location.  All of this has to come off once it's all cut and fitted to lay the table level track, so now it's only temporarily screwed together.

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@trainbob posted:

John will you consider using a drone for your next video please 

Will you consider sending me a suitable drone?

@coach joe posted:

John I noticed a black line on the table outside of the track radius.  Is that the location of another track, approximate clearance required for scenery and structures, a future cut? 

That's the overhang of the upper deck, we just put the line to know where it is and to leave space for the supports.  After cutting and fitting all the upper deck, I removed it to allow for finishing the lower level track.

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