O27 reversing loop

What track system are you using?  If it is traditional lionel O27 tubular track, the lionel switches for O27 only operate on track power.  

If you are using old "traditional" tubular track .. I don't recommend the old 1122 non-derailing O27 switches. They can be modified for fixed voltage input but it's not really worth the trouble IMO. They use power as long as metal wheelsets are on the switch. Don't park trains on them!

I currently have a temporary loop-to-loop O27 layout that fits on a door, but I used regular O22 non-derailing switches with fixed voltage input. You can just pound regular track pins into O27 track to adapt them to regular tubular track or switches with O31 curves. The track height is quarter-inch difference which can be shimmed easily. If it's difficult to get the bigger track pins into the O27 track you can spread the rail web slightly with a screwdriver.

If you want a minimum-size reverse loop, I recommend you have some straight track in the middle of the S-curve part - preferably at least the length of the wheelbase of your typical rolling stock. The larger O31 curve of an O22 switch won't add too much additional size to the reverse loop.

I use O27 tubular and run conventional using a ZW transformer

I use to do it with your every day 5121/5122 switches but then it also depends what radius you need do you have anything that takes a wide radius other wide you really don't have to worry about what switches to use. and I let mine throw themselves. Which you just gave me an idea if my switches on ebay don't sell I might do. lol like I had before. 

1121 TO. They have the machine from the 022.

I know this thread is old but I found it through a google search on this topic: I've been thinking about possibly making two reversing loops in O-27 and running a single stretch of track between them.  Is this possible with Lionel O-27 tubular track?  I recall having tried reversing loops with O-27 before several years ago and my recollection is the track would not connect neatly, even with half-track.  Can it be done?  Does anyone have a track plan for that?

It can certainly be done. You may have to cut track to a custom size with a hacksaw or rotary tool.

But with the O-27 tubular track as Lionel makes it - without modifying the track - is it possible to make an O-27 reversing loop?

(With Fastrack I know this can be done - at least in O-36 - because I've seen the track plan in Lionel track and power catalogues.)

Not sure this is what you are talking about,  but this is a scout running on O27 track with 1122 switches. Works great

You don't need to cut track to according to the LIONEL box, and track power is fine, though they prefer lower voltage like 12 volts. They should not buzz when triggered, but move smoothly.

El Classico posted:

1121 TO. They have the machine from the 022.

Picture? I've never seen one of these.

I've used the 6-5121/5122 switches, and they'll work, but they aren't that great. The plastic lining of the solenoid sometimes needs to be filed down to allow for smooth switching at lower voltages. As has already mentioned, the solenoid continues to fire as long as there are cars on the switch, which causes mildly annoying buzzing, and there is the risk of frying the solenoid if you park a consist on them for too long.

I've since switched to the K-Line K-0265/0266 with the knock-off of the low-profile DZ-1000 machine (LED lights). They're hard to find, but are fantastic (though a couple pair had some bad diodes that I replaced). My understanding is that the older version of the K-0265/0266, with the incandescent bulbs, like the newer version that I have, do not have the risk of getting fried when cars are parked on them. Both generations of K-Line switches are designed to be run on either track or accessory power.

N.B. IF you're looking on EBay for K-Line switches, note that frequently many of those for sale are 42" diameter O-27 switches.

You do need to cut a straight, but the circular geometry works well with everything being in quarter sections.

It is going to greatly limit the train lenths if made as small as possible. More ovaling adds more cars.

The hardest part of moding the coils for constant power is getting the first bottom off, lol. After that its easy and worth it when running modern low energy motors too.

   Feed them just enough for good movement, the burnout warning is real for parking on the anti derail system's rails. (Though my own have spent countless hours energized with sided  cars on them they have not burned. I also have noted they have always taken 12v or more to budge, 14v gives a light snap, and 18 doesn't seem like too much. I always had to throttle up for a turnout change. Mine just don't heat up much. Newer ones seem to have coils that react to lower voltages too)

Other than the common 0-27 vs O warnings on size, You will only run into issues pulling in the S turn with long, fixed shaft couplers like on some passenger cars, and/or some less articulating O loco couplers and car couplers (with those smaller cast  knuckles (tighter lateral ability)) , etc. Often car placement overcomes the knuckle binding. Other than similar worst case scenarios, you should be fine and dandy pulling.  Backing up will take a steady hand. The shorter the cars the better, A watchful eye and a little luck on longer pw cars won't hurt either.  

BC1989 posted:

But with the O-27 tubular track as Lionel makes it - without modifying the track - is it possible to make an O-27 reversing loop?

Here is the original O-27 geometry used to make simple reverse loops:

The track usually has enough wiggle room to do it using regular straights instead of the x overs:

O-27 cross-overs are the same length as the straight sections.

Allin posted:

O-27 cross-overs are the same length as the straight sections.

Which cross-over?  Which manufacturer?