Older New-In-The-Box MTH Proto-2 Engines

I have several MTH Proto-2 engines that have never been out of the box.  Today, I removed an AC6000 Diesel (20-2265-1) and put it on a test track without DCS and fired it up.  Seemed okay at first, but the sound was a bit loud and the smoke unit was on.  So I removed it from the track and turned the sound down and turned off smoke.  Put her back on and there was no sound.  So I tried direction control and nothing.  So, I then placed the loco on a DCS loop on my layout, discovered it, started it up, sounded okay, and the loco moved forward on command.  Then, the z-4000 transformer's "red light" came on, I smelled fried electronics, then nothing.

Is there a process one should go through when operating early P2 engines, perhaps changing the battery?  I wanted to give this to a friend for his grand kid.  I have other engines, but don't want to fry them as well because of my mistake.

Tom

Original Post

unfortunately, no....there is no easy fix....99.9% of the time that's the death nail for them....I learned this the hard way too....fortunately, there are some very good forum members on here that will chime in here and can help you get them fixed....don't run anymore of them until you get the batteries either checked out or replaced.... 

The Water Level Route.......You Can Sleep

Melgar,

it is essential to have a charged battery or a BCR in an MTH PS-1 or PS-2 engine.

That's not completely accurate. The answer is more complex than that:

  • PS1 engines absolutely need a charged battery or they won't get out of neutral.
  • Although it's not recommended to do so, PS2 engines can run without any battery at all in DCS mode. However, they need a charged battery when running conventionally or they won't get out of neutral.
  • Some 5 volt PS2 engines can actually be damaged if they are run, either under DCS or conventionally, with a weak or very old battery.

Regardless, it's always smart to replace any MTH white, 8.4 volt battery before ever starting up any PS1 or 5 volt PS2 engine.

 

Barry

 

DCS Ambassador & author of The DCS Companion series of books

Train-Ca-Teers - All For O and O For All!

 

This is all good info...new to forum here and I was fortunate to pick up two essentially new in box PS2 kits for 100 each.  One ran fine once we left it on the track to charge..the other is in the hole for a birthday present for my son.  I plan to change out the battery on it as soon as it is unboxed.

 

I've got a bunch of old PS2 engines that will soon see the light of day.  So, if you don' t mind a question that has probably asked and answered, Barry, when you say

"Regardless, it's always smart to replace any MTH white, 8.4 volt battery before ever starting up any PS1 or 5 volt PS2 engine."

Replace with what?  Sure, a BCR is a possibility, but to just get them running or do a quick test, a battery would be cheaper so what battery is appropriate?  Regular 9 volt?  Or should I bite the bullet and replace all batteries with BCR's regardless of cost?

PRRrat posted:

I've got a bunch of old PS2 engines that will soon see the light of day.  So, if you don' t mind a question that has probably asked and answered, Barry, when you say

"Regardless, it's always smart to replace any MTH white, 8.4 volt battery before ever starting up any PS1 or 5 volt PS2 engine."

Replace with what?  Sure, a BCR is a possibility, but to just get them running or do a quick test, a battery would be cheaper so what battery is appropriate?  Regular 9 volt?  Or should I bite the bullet and replace all batteries with BCR's regardless of cost?

You want a Ni Cad or NiMH in a common 9 volt case. They can be found in most hardware and drug stores these days. Don't use a common alkaline or any other non rechargable battery.

Pete

Hello, It's okay to TEST them out with a REGULAR 9 V battery.However,you SHOULD spend the extra $5 bucks and get a 9 V rechargeable battery.

The regular battery is not recommended for extended use,but the instructions that come with the engines say that:" you CAN use a regular 9 volt battery,until your replacement MTH battery arrives through the mail,after you order it from MTH."

I think this is the right answer,but you are better off to listen to the more educated folks here on the forum.

I have used regular 9 volt batteries to test stuff out,they don't last long however.That"s why you are better off getting a rechargeable 9v from the beginning.

That is what the units are designed to work with.

"Regardless, it's always smart to replace any MTH white, 8.4 volt battery before ever starting up any PS1 or 5 volt PS2 engine."

Like Norton says, use a new, fully charged, NiCad or NiMH 8.4 volt rechargeable battery.

A couple of folks that I respect greatly have advised me not to use a BCR with a PS2 5 volt board. (Regardless, BCRs are fine with the 3 volt PS2 boards.)

Barry

 

DCS Ambassador & author of The DCS Companion series of books

Train-Ca-Teers - All For O and O For All!

 

"A couple of folks that I respect greatly have advised me not to use a BCR with a PS2 5 volt board. (Regardless, BCRs are fine with the 3 volt PS2 boards.)" 

I have quite a few locos with PS2 5 volt boards and have been using BCRs in several of them and haven't had an issue.  Can you tell me why the folks that you respect greatly advised you not to use a BCR with the 5 volt board? 

Thanks, Tom

I would not purchase an expensive battery alternative for any PS2 loco with a 5-volt board.  A battery is cheaper and will probably outlast the Board.

Barry's summary is sound.  The white battery is a known problem creator.

Your 20-2265-1 is repairable though a board replacement.  There is a 3-volt board available to techs that drops into your loco with a fe other minor component changes. I'm sure GGG or Gunrunner John would be glad to give you a quote.

I have bought several old but NIB PS2 3-volt locos over the years.  I usually threw away the battery and replaced it with a home-brewed supercapacitor.

Well, the 3V board isn't available any more, now it's the PS32 board.  This is a PS/3 board with a piggyback board that handles incandescent bulbs and has connectors compatible with the older PS/2 boards.  There are actually two types, one with 5V connectors and one with 3V connectors.

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