Please help me to identify a manufacturer

I wonder if anyone can help me identify the manufacturer of this set of 2ROS F3 engines. I bought these about a year ago and I have depleted my backlog to the extent that I now have time to look at them. The F3A is unpowered and it has cab shell detailing inside with control stand and seats for the crew along with the electrical panel etched into the back wall. The F3B is powered with a kind of belt drive that utilizes a toothed timing belt to transfer motion from a clutch/flywheel assembly to the trucks. Motion is provided by a can motor, which I had to replace because the original went bad. Mechanically the drive unit is quite nice with ball bearings throughout. The weak link is the belt and I would like to locate spares even though none are required right this minute. The existing belt shows no wear as of now.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks for your time.

John

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Waht is the body made of?    Is it diecast or detailed plastic.    P&D made very nice bodies in plastic with great details all added separately.    Diecast could be All Nation or one of it's predecssors, General Models or Adams castings.   

If the body is fabricated brass it could have been salvaged from dead import unit.

Also what do the trucks look like up close.    P&D does very nice super detail brass assembled somewhat like the prototype.    All Nation and General Models are diecast.   

 

 

the diecast gear box coudl be USHobbies, the open gears are probably not.   I have never seen a USH with open gears, all I have seen have enclosd gearboxes.     However, all the variety shown indicates that this is a kitbash of somesort.    Body from one place mech from another, 2 different mechs etc.    USH or Max Grey never did an F unit that I know, but the gearboxes could be respectively USH (closed) and MG open.

If the shells are brass, they are either Key Imports, Overland, or custom. Key and OMI are the only 2 importers to do BRASS F units (to my knowledge). Overland had a separate trim ring at the end of the headlight, the Key nose is all one piece. The Keys I have seen had small (streamlined) number boards, so once again guessing: OMI.

Pretty sure the A and B were BOTH powered as imported.

P&D Hobby shop has nice brass Blombergs and you could power both units as they were originally.

Simon

John,

To address your concerns about the belt.  They, typically, last a long time.

When I worked on a few of these models (no, not yours) I did a cursory inspection and all looked fine so I didn't bother pursuing them any further.  I'm willing to bet they are standard belts, such as MXL or XL, readily available from sources like SDP (Stock Drive) or McMaster-Carr.  Size of the tooth is critical.  We can determine the version if you can provide the exact diameter of one of the pulleys and the number of teeth.  Once we determine the correct tooth you will need to count the number of teeth on your belt.  With all that info we can order replacement belts.

Jay

Looking at John's photos I would say, the non-powered unit has the older Overland geared axle sets (non-helical).  That clue, along with the frame, shouts OMI (Overland).

The powered unit uses USH/KTM gearboxes.  I will assume the axles and wheels are of like origin.  Stu liked to use these and I've observed them in many of his mechanisms.

Jay

John;

Those are Overland models with KES drives(Kleinsmidth). I believe these came from the Joe Fiore collection. I have an AB set. Joe ran them as an ABBA lash up. If you ever want to sell yours please let me know since I was a fiend of Joe's.

 

Thanks,

Dan Mason

Dan Mason

John;

Those are Overland models with KES drives(Kleinsmidth). I believe these came from the Joe Fiore collection. I have an AB set. Joe ran them as an ABBA lash up. If you ever want to sell yours please let me know since I was a fiend of Joe's.

 

Thanks,

Dan Mason

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Hi Dan Mason

I started collecting the Atlas CZ cars and my club friends started razzing me about not having the right locomotive for the train. So when these F3's came on the market I figured I would purchase them and repaint them. BUT as it turns out the existing paint job is so nice I am having second thoughts. Also in its travels the B unit has suffered some damage. In addition to some motor issues which I have solved, someone installed weights that were so heavy that the sides would flex every time the unit was picked up, eventually causing every structural solder joint to fail. The outcome of the repairs will dictate the longevity of the old paint job. Rather than use a torch, I have ordered a 200 watt solder iron which should arrive shortly. We shall see what we shall see. In any event I have a CB&Q O-5 Northern which should be OK pulling this train.

And so, I think I will keep these engines for now, especially after all the TLC I have put into them. I am planning DC/DCC for them too.

John

Hello again

I had some luck with resoldering the structural members of the B unit. The 200 Watt Iron is hot enough to make the solder flow like water. No chance of cold solder joints here. I need to locate some suitable paints to retouch the unit and then if able I will proceed with rewiring etc.

John

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