i saw this in a railking ps2 3v loco. Anyone else ever do this? Batts this way are much cheaper than the mth plastic wrap pack but i dont want to blow up boards. Would the mah be critical? Id go with aaa for a smaller footprint with the holder. Discuss!

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If someone was really adamant about having NiMH batteries and wanted them to be easy to replace, the battery holder is the way to go...

When it comes to the 3 volt PS2 boards, I'm with John on this one.  Supercaps are cheap and easy to make. Plus they are  smaller than a pair of AAA batteries!

 

BCR Clone 3V Size Comparison
Image credit goes to GUNRUNNERJOHN from a previous post.

H1000

What they said.   But taking your question at face value, (q1): yes, you can use a 2x AAA battery-holder with individual batteries and this has been done before. 

Doing the math is kind of nerdy, but the energy stored in the supercap suggested above is equivalent to a ~2 mA-Hr battery pack.  Any AAA battery you buy today would be in the 100's of mA-Hr, so (q2): not critical. 

The pros and cons of each method have been exhaustively discussed on OGR so not going there.

The sticker says don't use alkaline batteries.  2 alkaline batteries give 3.0 volts; rechargeable NiMH or NiCADs give 2.4 volts.  Also, they are not rechargeable, which means you'd be taking the loco or tender apart regularly.  If you can afford a $250+ locomotive, you can afford an $8 MTH battery or a pair of AAA NiMHs.

Gunrunnerjohn gave the best suggestion.  That's what I use in all my PS2 locos, except 2.5F rather than 1.5.

stan2004 posted:

Doing the math is kind of nerdy, but the energy stored in the supercap suggested above is equivalent to a ~2 mA-Hr battery pack.  Any AAA battery you buy today would be in the 100's of mA-Hr, so (q2): not critical.

True Stan, but you omit an important fact.  There's no reason for more capacity for it's intended purpose, which is why PS/3 went to supercaps.

Would you carry five gallons of water to go for a walk in the park?

I found that 1.5F works well and it's a bit easier on the charging circuit.  I also got a good price on a lot of name brand 1.5F parts.  Since I also use the 1.5F parts in my YLB product, I figured they could do double-duty.  The PS/3 stuff uses two 5V in series to yield 2.5F, so apparently that's a good value.

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