PS2 Upgrade on 844

The best way is to mount the PS-2 board in the engine.  If you move the connectors off the old 5V board and put them on the new 3V board the wiring harness can plug right in.

Need to be careful swapping connectors so that the pins don't get damaged on the new board.

You will need to modify the heat sink so that it mounts on the back vice side.  Cut off the relay end screw mount tab on the black plastic board holder.  At that point you can mount the board bracket using the holes that held the 5V board.

Change the speaker, and battery in tender and you are good to go.  G

So after I mount the board, I plug in the original harness?

It sounds like to me that the original board may be a 5 volt board. The upgrade board is a 3V board. They are NOT interchangeable. MTH no longer makes a 5V board, they make a 3V board with 5V connectors but you still have to change the speaker and mounting hardware. What is the item number of your engine? If it's a 5V board then I have a good used 5V board that I could let you have. That would be a matter of plug it in and reload the sound system for the one for that engine.

Paul,  The model number is 20-3078.  The battery in the tender is a 9volt, so the board must be 5v.  I am very interested in obtaining your 5 volt board.  When is the best time to reach you?

Paul,  This is very misleading, as the PS-2 3V board is the replacement for a PS-2 5V.  By moving the 5V connectors off the old board and onto the new board you effectively have a AE-15/16 which is the PS-2 3V with 5V connectors.  As I stated swap in the new speaker and battery.

The 3V board is better than the 5V.  This allows you to keep your harness and all the features your engine has with a more reliable PS-2 3V system

I have repaired about a dozen engines with 5V boards in the engine.  I have found mounting the 3V in the engine is pretty easy using the existing screw holes in the engine shell.  You just need to manage the position of the heat sink which isn't that hard to do.  G

Thanks for clarifying G.  Based on what you're saying, everything is reused, minus the battery and speaker.  I will seek your advice if I have any questions mounting the board.

G, There are 3 screws in the roof of the engine shell.  The distances between screw holes is approx. 2.4" and 1.8", which means I would have to drill & tap 2 new holes - one for the board, one for the heat sink.  Is this typical with your experience?

I have the mounting screw issue resolved.  However, prior to mounting I checked the fitting of the 5v harness connectors to the 3v board and found none of them fit.  The distance between the vertical slats on the flat side of the connector are at a differ dimension than the 3v.  I also checked the motor harness and found the white and yellow wires were in a different position between the versions.  Should this be a concern?

Got it.  I have not performed a 5v to 3v conversion, so this one is new to me.  Thank you for detailing the steps and your patience.

If you still want the 5 Volt board email me from my profile. Sounds like you are converting the 3V board to 5V, wish you the best with that.

No problem, I am not in a position to post some pictures that would make it easier, but this is not a hard conversion.  Just be careful removing the connectors from the 3V board so you don't bend any pins.   All the harness will line up on this one easily and just route wires back the way they were once the board is installed.  G

Scott,

You do not want the 5v board that is being offered.  Take GGGs advice and swap the plugs on the 3v board.  You will be better off.

Dave

Really? Offering help gets whacked on the Forum now? The engine the board is in runs great, everything works, but it suffered a fall from the shelf at the hands of my maid and I would have sent it to him gratis. Y'all enjoy yourself now, kma.

Paul,

He already has a 3v board.  Why would he want a 5v?

Dave

The years have taught me that the KISS principle works. Swapping out identical boards easier then removing all the connectors and replacing them on the 3v board. OP stated he had an upgrade kit, that way engine restored and still have complete upgrade kit to use or sell.

Is it too late for me to take the board Gratis..:-)  On a serious note, many times the speaker is bad too.  Frankly, the 5V is in sideways and a slight pita to remove and install connectors as you slide the whole 5V inside the large bracket.

The 3V mounts with connectors facing up and is easier to access for connectors.  For me, upgrading the FEF with the 3V has been an easy task.  G

Well the conversion is done and it went extremely well.  Removing (prying off) the connectors was a delicate but easy task.  The engine runs and sounds better.  I spoke to MTH and this was a common practice for them.  I had sent the original board to them for repairs but was informed it was a lost cause.  The cost for them to repair would have been much more expensive, so I'm glad I took the project on.  It was far easier than a standard upgrade.

BTW, Paul I do appreciate the offer for a replacement board - thank you for offering an alternative.

G - a big thanks for the advice & step by step guidance!

Scott, Your welcome.  I do board testing and component repairs if you need services in the future.  G

Guys, take George (GGG) up on his service.  He is excellent in fixing dead MTH boards.  I use his services and could not be happier.

I highly recommend you take GGG up on his offer as well. He has helped me with several projects and gotten me out of a jam. Great to work with

Thank you guys! G