Removing and recycling PS3 boards

SZ,

The MTH PS3 will run on DC.  The deisels have only one board and harness.  Steam has two.

They are easily removed and I am sure you would find a buyer.  MTH does not currently offer PS3 boards to the public.  If you do sell the boards, make sure to include the wiring harness and appropriate lights, couplers, tach reader, potentiometer, switch,speaker etc.  

Dave

I too am curious why you think that you want to remove the Proto 3 electronics for conventional operation.  Are you concerned about not having enough voltage or amperage capacity from your existing power supply?

Proto 3 is a four mode decoder for DCC, DCS, conventional AC or Conventional DC control.  In addition to command control capability you will be giving up motor control in conventional mode, sound, the integration of sound and motor control functions and the LED lighting package plus more features.  That is a heck of a lot to give up, especially if there isn't a technical reason that you have to.

Thank you.  A few questions then:
a) Tach reader and speaker I understand

b) What pot and switch would that be ?

c)  I was thinking I'd keep the LED lights and just provide a replacement p/supply.

d)  I might also keep the couplers, and basically keep as much wiring as I could reuse on the loco, eg, power pickup, motors, lights.   How essential is the complete loco harness ? [ I understand why the 'board end(s)' might be necessary if the mating plug is not readily available, either from MTH or electronics vendors.] 

Thanks again, SZ

What locomotive are you buying?  That will impact what features you have and would have to work around if you remove the electronics.

There is a potentiometer for control of the sound volume if you do not set it through command control.

How would you propose to control the operation couplers without their associated electronics?

Selling a less than complete package, say sans lights, will diminish the value of the electronics to potential buyers.

And why do you not believe Proto 3 is compatible with your conventional operating environment?

About the same as John Orwin's post of March 4.  And no reason the LED lights have to go.

SZ

SZ, You are absolutely right. 

Those PS-3 boards are totally useless to you. 

You should carefully remove all the electronics and wiring and send it all to me.  I will take of shipping and arrange for proper disposal.  tt

I'm curious why you'd keep the couplers since you can't activate them in conventional mode.  Why not replace them with standard magnetic couplers if you're removing the electronics?

Tom, that's great.  I was really leery of just throwing the boards out because I figured there'd be, like old tires and motor oil, a disposal fee.

Who says you can't get results on the OGR Forums ?  Not me !

Best, SZ

PS I'm glad you're picking up the shipping, too.  My estimate of shipping -- Delaware, isn't it -- for each board is $206.58;  obviously I pack things VERY carefully.....

PPS  I thought our forum's 'bob2' had that "disposal" approach copyrighted ?

I would be removing them from the loco(s) in question.  I thought I would investigate, after a little research into how they are [ to use what I believe is the 'official' terminology ] "fired", installing them in other locomotives;  figuring out how to control them should be "fun" -- and fun is why I'm in this hobby.

Best, SZ

Well, they're "fired" by applying a voltage to the coil.   I'm not sure what the specs are for the PS/3 couplers, so I can't say what voltage might be used.  For MTH PS/2 couplers, 6V AC or DC fire them.

I too am curious why you think that you want to remove the Proto 3 electronics for conventional operation.

About the same as John Orwin's post of March 4.

Oh, I remember it well.  Naturally I understand now. 

Could you please help us help you and tell us what specifically you have ordered.  You have said some contradictory things.  You tell us that you are a 2 rail conventional DC operator yet you are concerned with retaining the operating couplers and finding some way to actuate them without the factory electronics. 

That leaves me to believe that

a.  I have missed the news of the release of MTH O scale operating couplers.

b.  You are mistaken about the features available in the 2 rail O scale locomotive that you have ordered.

c.  That you have ordered the wrong version of a O scale locomotive.

d.  You have ordered an MTH HO locomotive.

If you could tell us the product number of the locomotive we could be more helpful.  And if you could tell us about the DC power supply you are using it would help too.  If it is capable of 16 volts and 3 amps there is no reason to think that it can't run an MTH locomotive very nicely under almost any operating conditions.  If you have lighted passenger cars, steep grades or pull long freights we may need to consider your special operating conditions. 

SZ, I'm sure alot of folks would be interested in those boards, but I have to ask- what anolog DC system are you using that can't be used on the PS3 board engines?...or are you just looking to recoupe cost by selling the boards and installing an E/reverse board and having no sounds, remote couplers or programming? Not labeling here or judging in any way, I just wonder why you wouldn't want the boards...must be a special engine to want to do all this! 

Mr Hikel:

   Did you even take the time to read the post of Mr Orwin that I referenced ?  He quite succinctly said, "I like my trains to be quiet and don't want them to need 8 volts to start moving.  As is, they can't MU with anything else I own."  That's it in a nutshell.  One cannot doublehead a PS3 locomotive under DC with an analogue DC locomotive, if only due to the 8 volt offset.  [ The PS3 locomotives also "start in neutral" when power is 'first' applied, do they not ?]

I don't believe I have said anything contradictory;  you simply forgot:

  e.  None of the above

The locomotive I will be ordering is 20-5672-2 which comes with "Lenz" couplers, which are capable of remote operation under DCS, are they not ?  These will be removed and replaced with the 'model coupling'.  I might retain the 'electro-Lenz' [ I may have just invented a word there ] couplers for other purposes, as I thought I clearly explained to gunrunner above -- did you not read that post either ?

CB&Q:

  Yes, if the boards are going to be removed by me I would like to recover some of the costs, as I would have been happier if MTH either made dummies of these units [ eg, all four versions ] or would just sell the body shells.  Neither is likely, darn it.

SZ

SZ the croc hunter!...nice engines...and you wouldn't want just the shells, then you'd have to make or scrounge trucks...hassle!

I'm sure you could gut the PS3 and since those motors will run straight DC on 2 rails an e/reverse shouldn't even be needed....been too long since my G scale days- sorry. I lloked up my few mabuchi, pittman and bulher motors...the common mabuchis found in the MThs are capable of up to 30v per the mabuchi site - my RS-385PH comes in 2 different forms{why- I don't know?} one is spec'd at 12-30v operating range @ 2.35stall amp and the other is 8-35v op range @3.05 stall current. When you get the motors...and the rest of the engine check what motors you have to comfirm...I don't readily know what DC supply volt range your working with. Removing everything is easy, just take your time and maybe masking tape the leads for the next guy{this goes to ehre and that goes to something}. Be careful removing the tach reader on the motors...think they clip on{john- anyone?}...the tape can be left on. No smoke unit to mess with...oh, those pants are manual or do they automaticly raise per direction..that could be a loss if they're powered....I don't think MTH makes auto raising pantographs{of course, now that I've said that...}...rewiring the motors will be a coin toss- series or parallel...anyone smarter than me on that?{ok- that's like everyone else}

I am interested in the PS3.0 boards as well.  

SZ,

I would be sure to label the wires for the potential buyer.  You should have no problem getting rid of the boards.  I understand the 8v startup problem when running with other conventional engines.  That is a shame because PS3 is a great system.  Good luck!

Dave

1. Yes I would -- "trust me".

2.  Michael P.:  OK, your name will be first on the list. Of course it might be awhile before we see them, unless Busch puts Mike's feet to the fire.... But this project might be ahead of the usual MTH design curve, since there were rumors of it for quite some time before it was announced.   Since it's from an electric loco, the "pan lowering" board will be included;  if you could use a TRO Atlas ALP to put them in, I have one somewhere.

3.  To those who actually provided useful information, thank you.  I was hoping to get an idea of the 'going rate' for these boards to help decide whether to preorder 1 or 2 -- but I now think it best to see how these locos turn out [ externally ] before getting any others. 

With best regards, SZ