"Reselecting" A Deslected PS1 Locomotive - New chip and all better!

Just an FYI.....I don't think your Avitar is really you.......so it will soon disappear!!!

PS1 are trouble once issues start. I've ended up just putting a WbB DCU in it for about $40.....works great.

Well, I have not come across any forum rules listed or linked for viewing, so I had no idea there was a rule that your avatar must be your own photo, so I used the same one I use everywhere, it's part of my online identity.  If you have a link to the rules, wonderful, then I can finally read them.

As to the locomotive, won't I lose the sound and other features of the PS1 by changing the DCU?

Here ya go. 

The rules are included in the terms of service (TOS) when you register.  You can also find it if you click on "Manage" on the menu bar.  You'll see the terms of service link on the right hand side.

The avatar rule is under section 9 of the posting guidelines of the TOS.

And I thought,  Here ya go , pretty much covered it.

That's the link to the TOS yes, but it doesn't cover the fact that you also see it when you register on the forum, nor does it say how to find the link itself. 

This is the only forum that has a photo only avitar rule that I am on.....I too have one I use on all other places on the net.....not pretty but better than my photo!!!!

But if they insist on my ugly mug....so be it!!!

A WbB DCU will loose all sound etc.....last resort if it's DOA for sure.

I buy DOA MTH locos and bring them back with a WbB DCU.....

A couple of things.  First, MTH does still sell chips.  They are available with the newer version of the software.  Second, the CW-80 bell/whistle button doesn't always do well with PS-1.  You may have locked it in fwd and now neutral.

Can you use a Pure sine wave transformer such as a PW model, or an MTH Z-1000.

If it really is an ID issue then your battery is probably bad and needs to be replaced first.  You can use the doodle bug chip to test it.  You need a PLCC extractor tool which you can get from Radio Shack.

The best repair is new battery and a replacement chip from MTH.  I can reset the board, but it uses a QSI chip I have.

Are you sure the tether is plugged in fine and the board is getting power?  Do you get any sounds when you apply power?  G

Thanks for replying GGG.  My local MTH authorized dealer and repair center told me that the chip is no longer available.  And that there isn't any PS2 upgrades for it anymore either.  It's either PS3 upgrade, using the chips to fix the 3 clank scramble hoping that works, or nothing.  So, if they are just giving me a line because they don't want to mess with it, it wouldn't surprise me (As you can tell from their attitude and comments I posted in my 1st post.).  I do have a new battery, and that was the 1st thing I tried.  What it does is when I apply track power, it sounds like it's starting up as it should, but then it goes quiet.  I push the direction button and it just sits there.  It was the beginning of the year when this happened, so my memory is rusty (I've slept more than once since than.).  But I researched it at that time, and from other findings online, and MTH's site about PS1 issues, I figured it was a deselect issue, as my locomotive also falls under the list of the early ones with that problem.  If you know where I can get the new chip, awesome as my MTH dealer isn't about to help me, at least without charging me the same price to upgrade it.

As for the issues of a CW-80, yes, it sometimes have issues, but most of the time I get it to work.  I know it's not in neutral as it makes the start up sounds, but then goes quiet instead of starting with the neutral sounds.

I'm willing to dig it back out of the closet and go through the steps of trouble shooting it with you if you'd like to confirm my diagnosis, but it may have to wait until August.  I just bought a house, and all my spare time in the evening are being spent in preparing the house to move my family, and then I'm out of town most of July.  But then I'll be back, ready to build my 1st big layout, and I'd love to get my 11 foot NYC train rolling again.  Although that being said, I love this loco enough I might just stay up a bit longer every night to get it running again.  Thanks.

Since PS2 upgrade kits are in fact available (some legwork may have to be done) and the fact that PS3 upgrade kits haven't been released yet, they are definitely feeding you a line.  I would not do any sort of business with them anymore, even if it's not repair-related.

You can also do a TMCC upgrade as an option.  A Hudson-specific sound set may or may not be available but someone else may chime in to confirm that.

If the locomotive was running well, I suspect it may have picked up something from that CW80 that it interpreted as one of the reset codes. Unless the engine is giving you the "three clanks of death" it may be that you just need a proper reset. You can't do it with a CW80; you need an old ZW or other pure sine wave transformer with a good whistle button.

The most efficient thing is to find someone with an MTH Z4000 power supply and use the "Program Code 18" to reset the board (connect the locomotive directly to the transformer as opposed to through a TIU.) If you get three "clanks" and three "Clinks" then the PS1 board has been reset. Replace the battery with an 8.4 volt NiCad, NiMH, or LI rechargable.

If that doesn't do it, the next step would be to find someone with the reset chip. That chip is inserted into the sound board in place of the regular sound chip, then the locomotive is powered to 18 volts and it resets the board. You then put the regular sound chip back in, change the battery if necessary and you should be good to go.

As John stated, PS2 kits are out there, but you have to do some leg work to find them as they're still a bit scarce, especially the steam kits.

I recommend you not consider the LI battery, their charging profile is very different than NiCad or NiMh batteries and the charging circuit is not designed to handle it.

Here's a warning on one site that sells the LI batteries, but others are similar.

Warning:  Please never use 9V NiMH battery charger to charge the Li-Ion battery. Misuse battery charger may cause battery to explode.

Contact MTH directly with the model number of your loco. Replacement chips for 'deselect' have to be burned by MTH for the specific loco they go in. It's not something a Service Center/Retailer can do to begin with.

MTH still has chips. I just replaced one not to long ago. MTH has bought all of the remaining chips they could. When those chips run out that is it then no more are being produced.

Take GGG's advice plus I'm not sure if MTH will sell them to you. You can try. Or go back and tell your repair center to email Jeff Strank or call MTH and they can get it. Once you have a new chip the reset is simple.

Ralph

You can email Jeff Strank jstrankatmth-railking.com (just replace the at with the symbol) or call the techs. The # for MTH is 1-410-381-2580 call them between noon and five eastern time and theywill be able to tell you what you need to do to get a chip. Just have the item # ready.

Ralph

Chip can be purchased on line, or call midge.  The PS-1 chip number is AI-0000037 $30, then you add the sound file which is your train model number AE-3011131  (30-1113-1) $0.

If you buy the MTH reset kit, you get a new battery, chip puller and the 3 clank reset chip.  This reset chip is only for a software conflict that gives the 3 clanks when power is applied.

Your symptoms are the classic ID issue.  You won't be able to do a feature reset #18 because you won't be able to advance past the first reset position.  G

Okay, after moving, I've finally be able to get all my MTH locomotives out.  Before contacting MTH directly, I'd like to try the chip swapping and resetting because I can afford the price of that.  If it fails, then I'll try getting a chip from MTH after I save up some (Buying a house isn't cheap!).

Anywho, I guess this is mainly directed at GGG, below are the four MTH PS-1 locomotives I have, with photos of their chips attached.  If I can get it to work, also will be attach is a video of my Hudson and what it does, or rather, doesn't do.  The question is which locomotive's chip can I use to do the reset of my Hudson with this process?

30-1113-1 NYC Dreyfuss Hudson

20-2186-1 Chessie GP38-2

30-2170-1 New Haven EP-5

30-2135-1 Santa Fe Doodlebug

 EDIT:  I'm having an issue getting things to upload.  It claims I need the latest version of flash, which I have.  Sigh, computers are so troublesome.

 EDIT2: Works with a different browser.

EDIT3: I have no clue why the video is upside down.  It's not if I view the original file on my phone or laptop.  I turn the power on, I get the startup bell, then nothing.  The clicking you hear happens as I turn the power up and down.  Then I turn the power off and I get the power down bell.  That's it.

Sinclair,  Most likely despite the recharging, a battery that is approaching 5 years old is expended and won't hold a full charge.  So when you tried to use it the voltage dropped off and the ID conflict was set.

Also,  the CW-80 wave form doesn't work well with PS-1.  Do you have a PW 1033/ZW or a MTH Z-1000.  Those are better choices for PS-1.

I would take the newest engine.  Use the MTH catalog to see what year your engines are.  If one is a 98 or 99 I would try swapping that chip into your Dreyfus and see if it works.  If it does you can move the Dreyfus chip into that engine (with a good battery) and test it.  If it works you can just swap top boards.

Having said that, the engine with the Dreyfus chip is still susceptible to an ID conflict if a weak or dead battery situation occurs.

Having MTH make you a new Dreyfus chip with the new software is the best way to go.  Chip should cost you $30 plus shipping.  G

I do have a Z-1000 still packed in a box somewhere (Not 100% unpacked from the move.).  I do have a fresh battery, the green one you see in the video.  I might try pulling chips this weekend, if I can find a chip puller (The EEs here at work that know where one would be are out at a conference.).  I did email Jeff Strank just now about getting a chip.  In the end I'd much rather get a new chip without the issue so that it's less likely to have any problems in the future.  My EP-5 also needs a new coupler, so if I can really order a new chip with the online parts thingy, I'll get the other items I need too.

AI-0000037 for the chip, then add AE-3011131 for the sound set (free).  That way MTH knows you need the chip for the 30-1113-1.  G

I swapped the chips this weekend, and both locomotives drove.  A EP-5 sure is funny to watch with steam sounds.  I've gotten in touch with Midge and will be ordering a new chip.  I'll let you know when she's running again.  Thanks for your help.

@GGG, I did try the reset of options 3 and 17, and it didn't work.  I may of not done it right, and my manual actually says that option 2 if for selecting ENG ID on an upgraded for the future.  But at least I know a new chip will solve the problem.

I revised that post.  That procedure works with a QSI chip that allows access to the ID features.  MTH chips don't allow access to those features.  The new chip MTH provides has different software that doesn't allow the ID feature set on the board to effect operation.

Good to hear they are up and running.  G

The parts came in on Wednesday.  My Dreyfuss is running on her own again, and upgraded with a Proto-coupler to boot.  Midge at MTH was really helpful and got me what I needed.

But she does now have a new quirk, the squealing breaks are always going.  But the chip added RESET 45 so I turned them off and all is well.