OK... I'm sick of getting 18.4 or 18.2vac... then, immediately dropping to 17.8 or 17.6vac. Which RMS Multi Meter are y'all using? I'm sure that most of you have very expensive RMS M/Ms... but, is there a decent one out there in the 80-100 range that you would recommend? Thanks... and, Rock On!
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Simpson 260. But it is a little above that range.
Dennis, do you want an analogue or digital meter? New or used?
One thing you could do to minimize voltage drop in the readings with your present meter is to measure the voltage with a moderate load connected to the power source being measured, such as an 18 volt light bulb or a power resistor.
Steve, I don't have a preference as to analogue/digital. Used is fine if I know the individual... otherwise new would be my choice. Now convenience, because I'm in the attic with some reach issues or in the eave behind the knee-wall or under the layout... the less this septuagenarian has to tie into/set-up is probably the better.
Longtime Fluke multimeter user here. There are many used ones available on the usual auction site, within your price range. Many of them are nearly indestructible. Don't bother with the older manual-range-switching models, which were quite good, but whose time is not now.
Hi, that voltage is not CRITICAL as long as you set close to 18 VAC! your voltage will change as the current draw changes. especially if your adding other engines while another engine is running in DCS. as Steve H has already said!
Alan
You’re gonna have to up the anty if you want a something like a Fluke with true RMS, ……usually around 175-200 bucks,….like mentioned above, I’ve only ever used Fluke in the shops ……some of my Fluke meters are 30-40 years old now …..I have a 115 in the RR shop, it’s true RMS, ….I think I caught it on sale for like 169.99, ……something like that ….
Pat
I got a Klein. Home Depot sells them. I'm thinking around a $100.00 is what I paid.
Amazon has it for $85.00
I use a Fluke at work. It's excellent and takes some serious environmental punishment. But it is pricey.
I use a Harbor Freighter at home. So far it hasn't failed me but I have no clue on how good it really is. Maybe someone with more electrical wisdom than me can comment on that.
Thanks guys! I'll bump up the give a bit and see if I can get the Fluke into the house.
Hi here is the 115 true RMS fluke Pat was talking about!
Fluke 115 True-RMS AC/DC Digital Multimeter - at the Test Equipment Depot
Alan
@Dennis-LaRock posted:OK... I'm sick of getting 18.4 or 18.2vac... then, immediately dropping to 17.8 or 17.6vac. Which RMS Multi Meter are y'all using? I'm sure that most of you have very expensive RMS M/Ms... but, is there a decent one out there in the 80-100 range that you would recommend? Thanks... and, Rock On!
Dennis, it's a little unclear if the symptom you're describing is actually related to a non-RMS voltage reading or whether it's actually the differences between different readings on different meters, or with different loads applied to the same source.
True-RMS reading meters are designed to accurately measure AC voltage of non-sinusoidal waveforms (other than pure sine wave). Chopped sine wave voltage output examples within our hobby would include MTH's TIU (as Alan mentioned) Z-1000, 750 and 500 Controllers, as well as Lionel's Legacy PowerMaster, CW-80, and others.
I'm guessing that the issue you're wanting to solve may either or also be related to the typical output voltage dropping from a source when an additional load is applied to it, explained by Ohm's Law.
Unless a meter has a low input impedance (option), its voltage readings of a source will still drop when a greater load (lower resistance) is placed on the source. I had a Fluke 115 that I used for a long time and it is a very good meter, but it also has a high input impedance and will still give varied voltage readings with load changes. If you want to spend the money for a Fluke brand meter with the Low-Z option, then either the 114 (non-RMS), 116, or 117 do this. Here is a link to Fluke's description of meters they offer with Low-Impedance: https://www.fluke.com/en-us/le...-digital-multimeters
For many years now, I've used a few $10 meters that I keep in various handy places and in vehicles. Any of these will provide readings that are accurate enough for our purposes as long as the sources have a nominal load attached (a low impedance such as an incandescent bulb or low value resistor). On my electronics workbench is where I keep my better test meters.
For occasional use, here are some other lower cost brands of True-RMS reading & Low-impedance meters that should be fine for our train related needs: https://www.google.com/search?...mpedance+Low-Z+meter
I've been using the Fluke 117 for years, ever since my 20 year old Fluke 77 finally went out of cal. I looked into calibrating the #77, but it was more expensive than just buying a new meter!
I'll put in a plug for Ideal meters. They're sold at Lowe's or Amazon. I have this one. I've used it for over 10 years.
Steve, I understand that if I put different loads on the power district I will get different readings. Right now I am talking no trains or other consumers within any particular power district. I'm cleaning up the wiring after 5 or 6 major changes to the layout and buttoning everything up to start on Signals, Structures and Accessories and the less I have to go back and re-do the better. Besides... I deserve a Fluke!
Dennis, sounds good! If I were buying a Fluke with the RMS and Low-Z features, I'd second John's recommendation for the 117.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:I've been using the Fluke 117 for years, ever since my 20 year old Fluke 77 finally went out of cal. I looked into calibrating the #77, but it was more expensive than just buying a new meter!
Fluke 177 all the way. You can get used ones out there fit 100-150 bucks. Just make sure you get good fluke meter leads
Does Pat's 115 make the grade here? I've got the eyeballs on a 115 right now.
As I understand your issue, the 115 will not sufficiently load the output like you seem to want; it has a high input impedance. Otherwise it's a good meter.
That being said, the 117 is about $20 more and has both features you seem to want (True-RMS and selectable Low or High input Impedance. The 177 Gary mentioned, is also a great meter, has the same features as he 117 with Auto-Ranging, but close to $200 more.
@Dennis-LaRock posted:Does Pat's 115 make the grade here? I've got the eyeballs on a 115 right now.
Everyone’s got their own preference…..I’ve fed my family, and made a very good living trusting 115’s so take that for what it’s worth,…..😉
Pat