Some questions on a Lionel 10E that I just bought.

Last weekend I picked up this Lionel 10E at a Train Show in Wayne NJ.
This is my first Prewar E-unit engine.

The loco looks like it is all there.

The wheels are locked due to zinc rot:
Wheels were so swollen that they were locked in the frame and motor removal was interesting.
New wheels will be re-ordered, gears removed and reattached to the new wheels.
Question on the gears, once the gears are on do you crimp the center hub and not the two small circle bosses to hold the gear on?
(Wheels will be ordered at a later date as I have the Italian disease “FundsaLow”).

The cab has two issues:
Small bend in the roof that can easily be bent back.
Part of the cab solder has come undone and needs to be re-soldered or glued. If I re-soldered the cab will be stripped and repainted (this is not a problem).

Removed wheels and tried to power up the motor with test leads.
Seems that the E-unit and bypass switch needs to be cleaned.
Bypassed the e-unit with the test leads and the motor fired right up and sounded very strong

Did a search on the pendulum e-unit in the OG forum and found some info.
Does anyone have any suggestions on cleaning this type of E-unit?
In testing this loco with the E-unit, does the motor have to be right side up to work?

.
Looking at the pick-up rollers it seems that the loco had a easy life. Maybe when the wheels started to go bad the loco was put away or just a shelf queen.

   

 

 

 

RonH

Don't Junk it, Make it Work!

 

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Original Post

Ron,

       Peen the center hub only.  Make sure to clean the commutator & run a very small bead of 5 minute epoxy between the windings and the back part of the commutator. This will save you from the commutator segments breaking loose & an expensive repair.  Harry

"THE OLD MAN"

Henning's Trains - Celebrating 75 Years, 1939 - 2014

Harry Henning posted:

Ron,

       Peen the center hub only.  Make sure to clean the commutator & run a very small bead of 5 minute epoxy between the windings and the back part of the commutator. This will save you from the commutator segments breaking loose & an expensive repair.  Harry

Thanks for the info. I have 3 others that use the super motor.
After I finish with this I will do the same with the epoxy on the other 3.

I believe you have the wheels and when I get some money up I will order from you. The gear is the small type and I think you have those. The larger gear wheel is a different issue. 

RonH

Don't Junk it, Make it Work!

 

imageHere are some pictures of some soldiering I did with my latest standard gauge. Used butane torch after bead blasting the unit. The front and roof edge were pushed down and in. Used Harry's paint, wheels, gears, axles, axle and armature shaft bushings. imageIMG_0192IMG_0194

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stew1957 posted:

Here are some pictures of some soldiering I did with my latest standard gauge. Used butane torch after bead blasting the unit. The front and roof edge were pushed down and in. Used Harry's paint, wheels, gears, axles, axle and armature shaft bushings. IMG_0192

Stew, thank you for the info, I will be doing something similar.

I have a very good flux that I got from where I worked years ago and with this flux it will let you solder stainless steal together. Use it for many applications with great results.
Will be using a soft solder as I do not want ho heat up the body to much, avoiding popping other joints.

What you did looks great, hoping for the same results.

RonH

Don't Junk it, Make it Work!

 

Hi Ron,

The same thing happened to my number 10 with the seem opening. What I did was removed the body, scuffed up the area around the seem separation on the inside and soldered the body from the inside so no paint would be disturbed. I used a regular Weller soldering iron and the repair has been holding nicely, plus you can't tell it's been fixed.

Thanks,

Sam

TCA# 05-59610

Steamer posted:

To save the paint you could use some JB Weld on the inside.

I would think any good two part epoxy and a little patience would work just as well. The problem is clamping it or holding it while the adhesive dries. With the solder, it cures within seconds. But because I did it on the inside of the shell, I didn't damage the paint

TCA# 05-59610

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