Skip to main content

Hello Everyone,

  I am now at the point that I am  looking into constructing my benchwork. I am still looking at table design, but overall want to get some questions answered. 

1. I am looking for a good method of bolting my legs at the top to the main frame work. What kind of templates or bolt patterns have people used that they like?

2. I am also looking at using the area under the layout as storage for the train cars and boxes. Is there a better way then just building another light frame work when I am done with the wiring above and slapping  down a board for storage? If I know I am going to do storage, should I have the template for the legs include the bolt holes for the future storage framing? 

3. Material: I am looking at 2x4s for the legs and for the framing using 1x4s. Top sheets I am looking at OSB, unless people have had back experiences. 

I will start with that, as I am sure I will have more questions soon. 

Thanks in advance!

 

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Here's a look behind the skirtingIMG_0604cx around my layout, at the underside of the layout platform,IMG_0606cx

...which is located directly under here....IMG_0068bb

as well as everywhere else,front all of which is 40" off the floor, providing plenty of storage room as well as easy access for crawling around to fiddle with this-n-that.

3/4" plywood; 2x4s, framing and legs.

The whole shebang is sturdy enough for me to mount it, and since I have cross-bolted one table to the other, with the same type of bolts I used to affix the legs to the framing, the entire construction acts as one unit, with no wiggle and no sliding around. Very, very sturdy.

Also, where I especially do not want to allow prying eyes, crawling children, or adventuresome hands under the layout, I have bolted onto the 2x4 framing, 3/4' plywood as a skirting, IMG_8599and where I want my own easy access, I have attached fabric (actually, ready-made "Café-curtains")...IMG_8612middle_12looking toward neck

I hope seeing all this may be helpful to you, sir.

FrankM

P.S. I had the entire floor of the Trainroom, including under the layout, broad-loomed, wall-to-wall, for easier-on-the-knees crawling-around comfort.

P.P.S. As I expanded the layout (of course!) thru the years, using the construction technique I described to you, it was a simple matter to add a new section, no matter the necessary dimensions, with some units the following sizes of width and length: 1'x8' ; 4'x4' ; 4'x6' ; 5'x20' , put them in-place, and attach them with the large bolts to the adjacent unit(s).

Attachments

Images (8)
  • IMG_0604cx
  • IMG_0068bb
  • front
  • IMG_0606cx
  • IMG_8599
  • IMG_8612
  • middle_12
  • looking toward neck
Last edited by Moonson

I would not mount shelving fixed in place.  Too much in the way for service. 

I do however have a lot of 36" tall book shelves mounted on furniture  dollies so they can be moved as needed where ever needed when ever needed.

Having worked under platforms where built-in shelving was located turned out to be very painful.

Things dont fall out of rolling cabinets doors and or storage drawers while in motion, but wheels are the way to go. Less dusting involved than just shelves too. I ended up leaning a large screen tv's protective screen in front of some shelves as it was being razed for removal. It fit exactly to the bottom of the layout frame. Two pieces of 1/4 round moulding gave it a slide channel on top. The plastic screen is non marring an just slides on the floor unguided. Quick to be removed and I have 30"x56" tinted sliding door helping me keep the mega dust of two 150lb dogs at bay....somewhat. Add hock, but some care and planning and it could be quite nice to have sliding "glass" doors on front of any shelving. My shelves roll, one holds transformers on the end cap and power wires have finger nut speaker terminals for fast removal(till I feel like doing a large telecomunications plug, there are 4 tracks, 4 acc. lines on 6 transformers 60w-90w,)) The layout rolls too. Bracing the legs is key, and a 2x4 is overkill on them in girth imo. Use 2- 1/2x3" ish boards forming a corner shaped leg won't twist or warp as bad. i wish i had done a 1x5" or 1×6 frame box as well but my lumber wasnt bought, it was handy.There wasnt as much room for button mounting on the perimeter as I would have liked. I just used two nuts and bolts in a vertical line on the legs relying on braces for the real "work". Traditional hidden framework braces work too but arent usually as strong or as easy unless you build them regularly. Filling and or enclosing the bottom by any means cuts down on noise projection from under the layout too.

Last edited by Adriatic

P1000155

2x4's for legs is overkill. Nothing wrong with the corner shaped legs mentioned in the post above. But if you like to save money and time (work) go to your local independent lumber yard and buy 2x6's and have them rip them into 2x3's (assuming you don't have the requisite saw at home). 2x3's are than strong enough and won't warp like 2x2's. My benchwork has been up since 1988 or`89 supported with 2x3 legs.

Attachments

Images (1)
  • P1000155
Last edited by modeltrainsparts

Add Reply

Post
The Track Planning and Layout Design Forum is sponsored by

AN OGR FORUM CHARTER SPONSOR

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×