Table top to strong and heavy

Well, it's done now. So, level 2.

I like 10"-12" for the second level. A solid second level will block everything on L1. A cookie cutter approach can create openings to preserve the view of L1.

How do you get that height on a 6 x 10? An in place helix would take up a lot of real estate on L1. The answer is to stretch the helix out and run the incline\decline around the perimeter. Using two sides and one end would provide about 26'. So, 12"/312"=3.8% grade. steep, but livable.

Option 2 is to move the helix onto a 42"-44" square added on to the layout for the helix. A helix using 036 FasTrack would need 3 1/2 turns to reach 12" with a slope of 3%. That would provide about 4"-4.25" clearance. getting more clearance would take L2 up to 24" with maybe another turn.

Option 3 is to hide the helix in the middle, off center, in a mountain.

You need a reverse loop on each level.

Back to framing.oh and the helix.  Here is a project that I am working on. It is three levels connected by a helix. 11 x 17, 14.5 x 9 & 12 x 7.

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/t...-project-help-please

This is all 1" x 4" framing with 1/2" plywood. legs are 2" x 4". Level supports are 1" x 4" with feet and tops. I can stand on it.

I tried the 6 x 10 around the outside and the eagle scout style. The 10 foot table is a little short.

I think you'll need two separate levels.

We frame our club modules with 1x4s on the perimeter with 1x3 or 1x2 cross braces @ 16" O.C. It is topped with 1/4 Luan. The frames are assembled with Kreg pocket screws and Gorilla glue. The tops are attached with #6 x 3/4" screws and Liquid Nails. The top screws come out once the Liquid Nails has dried. We cut the tops large by 1/4 -1" and use a router with an edging tool to flush cut to the frame.

Two words. Strong, light

I'm currently constructing my 3rd layout iteration, a 2 layer connected design of 16 x 8 ft.  The layers are separated by 13.25", top to top, which allows plenty of clearance, including framing for the 2nd level.  The bottom was built of sections bolted together, with the sections made from 3/4" plywood ripped to 3.5", screwed together (NO GLUE, so it can come apart in the future).  The legs are 1.75x1.75", cut from GlueLam beams.  They stay very straight, are very strong, and I can make them as long as I want.  I have a total of 24 legs, each with a 3" caster, most of which are locking, and can be adjusted for height/level about 1/2".

The 2nd layer will be framed with 3/4 x 2.5" plywood joists sitting on L-girders made of 3/4" x 2.5" plywood fastened to longer legs extended from the floor through the first layer, and up to the second layer.

Each layer will be topped with 3/8" plywood and 1/2" QuietBoard, but only where it needs to be (where track and scenery goes) to keep weight down. 

I can grab the thing in the middle and move the entire layout in any direction without too much effort and little or no racking.  The trick is to make it strong and square, but as light as possible. I can also lean or sit on it as needed.  IMHO, 2x4's are overkill, especially for weight, and I have a tough time finding and keeping them straight.

Attached is an earlier construction pic showing what I did.  You can see the longer legs sticking up to support the 2nd layer.  The large opening on the right is for access - there is another one at the far end.  Bottom to top layer transition will be a hidden O54 helix around the larger access opening, with about 30% of it visible for the last part of the climb.  Incline is about 3.8%.  Track is all Ross and GG.

Tom

That's great work Tom. I like the fact that you can wheel the whole thing out from the wall without major effort - a great idea for space saving. And yes, 2x4's are usually overkill for layout construction. I learned that with my first HO railroad.

Thanks, Ace.  Casters were out of necessity, since my layout is against the wall on 3 sides, and access would have otherwise been an issue.

Tom