Track cleaning questions

Please try the SEARCH function, here on the OGR Forum, as "track cleaning" has been discussed almost monthly.

Captain John posted:

CRC Eelectrical cleaner. (Home Depot) Spray on a rag and wipe down track & switches.

Tried that crap (my opinion), and it quickly destroyed the DCS "signal" on our layout! Thus, nothing but denatured alcohol on a cotton rag, wrapped around a short piece of 1X2 inch pine.

Gramps is right.  Steel wool leaves tiny hairs which will be attracted to any magnet, including motors and magne-traction.  If any gets into grease, it will chew up the bearings.

I have been using CRC Brakleen and have had no DCS signal issues.

If you use denatured alcohol, do have good ventilation.

Acetone works easily then wipe off with clean rag and use with ventilation and power off.

Mikey

If the track is oxidized, Deoxit will do a good job restoring conductivity. But you should follow up with something like denatured alcohol, since Deoxit will leave a little lubricating film. 

I don't use any liquids on my track - ever. My track cleaning car has a Scotch-brite pad. I have about 3500 feet of track. I put the car on the front of the train, ahead of the engine, so it allows the engine to run on clean track, and send it on its way.

dangerwildmike posted:

I'm going to start the Ford vs chevy debate off.

 

What is the most effective track cleaning/cleaner? Gargraves, tubular, fast track?  I run gargraves with Ross switches. I have read that some cleaners leave a film, I have been told wd/40 works well, I also read a mr. clean magic eraser works as well.

 

I am thinking about building a "track cleaner" out of an old gondola car. My grandfather told me to never use steel wool.  His train shop buddy said it can mess with the motors, so I'm a little hesitant to use a scotch brite pad because they are somewhat similar.

Thanks in advanced!

Scotch Bright pads are nonmetallic so there are none of the problems associated with using steel wool. Also the fibers don't tend to fray and get stuck of edges of track sections, switches, etc. Imo, it's all good using Scotch Bright pads.

Hot Water posted:

Please try the SEARCH function, here on the OGR Forum, as "track cleaning" has been discussed almost monthly.

This is a Forum - not a static user manual.

New members sign up everyday - new products and techniques are discovered all the time...

I don't want last years track cleaning news!

But yeah - to the original poster - you are far from "starting" this debate!

I've been using Nevr-Dull on Fastrack. - Labor intensive. Works nicely, but probably better ideas out there.

I wonder how the old LIONEL track cleaning car works? Was that thing effective?

I have one, never used it - I thought it was broken until I realized it was supposed to be pulled by a loco - thought it was like a gang car.

HOT WATER,

Do I really have to shoot the 1X2 piece of pine first?

Thanks for all the replies!  I am going to try a couple of methods and see what works well!  I'm a little worried to use really harsh chemicals, I am unsure if they will effect the wood ties of gargraves?

John H posted:

HOT WATER,

Do I really have to shoot the 1X2 piece of pine first?

Yes, it DOES help.  Darned auto spell/correct!

If your track has grease and oil on it, then I would use amonia on a micro cloth over a block of wood.  Shut off power first, let air out and you track will be spotless.

George

I use a dry clean white sock. I put my hand in it and pinch the rails one at a time moving around the layout.  If I find a small spot of oxidation I use a blue scotchbrite pad.  The blue pad is more gentle than the green and won't scratch the rails. I use tubular track and this has worked well for me over the years. 

Hot Water posted:

Captain John posted:

CRC Eelectrical cleaner. (Home Depot) Spray on a rag and wipe down track & switches.

Tried that crap (my opinion), and it quickly destroyed the DCS "signal" on our layout! Thus, nothing but denatured alcohol on a cotton rag, wrapped around a short piece of 1X2 inch pine.

H.W., unless others chime in and confirm that CRC destroys DCS signals, I find this a little hard to swallow.   I think your theory is full of untreated hot water.

To all others, for a good, deep cleaning, I generally use mineral spirits on a paper towel to clean my tracks (MTH Real Trax).  Doesn't seem to take long at all for the towel to turn black.  Probably due to a combination of oil, grease, and oxides on the nickel-silver rails.  I typically go through 3 or 4 towels when cleaning my basic double-oval 6' x 16' layout.  Then, I may go over the tracks with a stiff nylon brush to knock any dry dirt crumbs loose, and finish up with a good vacuuming.

I also have a home-made rail cleaning car utilizing Scotch-Brite types of cleaning pads that I occasionally run over the layout for some light duty maintenance every now and then.

Different track systems undoubtedly will need different cleaning methods.  For instance, I WOULDN'T use my current deep cleaning regimen if my layout consisted of GarGraves/Ross track with ballast and painted rails.  I'd forgo the nylon brushing, and only vacuum if the ballast was extremely well secured with ballast glue.

Mike,
Scroll to the top of this thread, you may find it informative: Cleaning Track...Yes again! 

I was wondering what happens to some layouts that cleaning appears to be a frequent event.  My layout has been up for 20 years, it is located in the bad side of the basement (read unfinished), the basement is a bit humid but the dehumidifier handles that.  During the summer there is little activity down there, however first thing in the fall a trackman 2000 makes the rounds.  That is the extent of the cleaning for the year.  I don't ever think about it until a thread like this pops up.  It this atypical?

AVOID acetone at all costs! HIGHLY flammable and toxic vapors! Boils at room temperature, so lots of vapor. WILL absorb through the skin, and can cause kidney damage. A VERY BAD choice for track cleaning! On a par with gasoline as far as danger.

Mixed Freight posted:

Hot Water posted:

Captain John posted:

CRC Eelectrical cleaner. (Home Depot) Spray on a rag and wipe down track & switches.

Tried that crap (my opinion), and it quickly destroyed the DCS "signal" on our layout! Thus, nothing but denatured alcohol on a cotton rag, wrapped around a short piece of 1X2 inch pine.

H.W., unless others chime in and confirm that CRC destroys DCS signals, I find this a little hard to swallow.   I think your theory is full of untreated hot water.

To all others, for a good, deep cleaning, I generally use mineral spirits on a paper towel to clean my tracks (MTH Real Trax).  Doesn't seem to take long at all for the towel to turn black.  Probably due to a combination of oil, grease, and oxides on the nickel-silver rails.  I typically go through 3 or 4 towels when cleaning my basic double-oval 6' x 16' layout.  Then, I may go over the tracks with a stiff nylon brush to knock any dry dirt crumbs loose, and finish up with a good vacuuming.

I also have a home-made rail cleaning car utilizing Scotch-Brite types of cleaning pads that I occasionally run over the layout for some light duty maintenance every now and then.

Different track systems undoubtedly will need different cleaning methods.  For instance, I WOULDN'T use my current deep cleaning regimen if my layout consisted of GarGraves/Ross track with ballast and painted rails.  I'd forgo the nylon brushing, and only vacuum if the ballast was extremely well secured with ballast glue.

Contact cleaner is not as good as it used to be. All the good stuff in it has been removed. I used to use CRC but it does a poor job of cleaning contacts and I have had it leave a film on contacts I have cleaned.

I have been using CRC Brakleen for years with no problems.  I would note that many CRC products come in two versions, one for Californians (green can) and one for people who want to get the job done (red can).  I agree the former is poor.

Denatured alcohol gives me a headache (no, I don't dronk it).

I have original tin plate track on my layout. I put a light sanding on the pins, and any piece I had doubt about, I cleaned the inside with a wire tube cleaner. Then to insure I get power, I put a dab of electrical grease on the pin. Now all I do is run a piece of 2000 grit sandpaper over the rails, and wipe it off with a shop towel.

necrails posted:

I was wondering what happens to some layouts that cleaning appears to be a frequent event.  My layout has been up for 20 years, it is located in the bad side of the basement (read unfinished), the basement is a bit humid but the dehumidifier handles that.  During the summer there is little activity down there, however first thing in the fall a trackman 2000 makes the rounds.  That is the extent of the cleaning for the year.  I don't ever think about it until a thread like this pops up.  It this atypical?

My layout has been together 10 years. I've cleaned the track maybe once in that time. Everything runs fine with no issues. 

I rarely clean my two standard gauge tinplate track loops, and the traditional motored locos run just fine. I do have a  battery powered PIKO track cleaning loco with specially designed ribbed cleaning pads for my G gauge loop. About 15 minutes of run time and the job is done. There are apparently as many ways to clean track as there are lubrication choices and methods. What SAFELY works for you is best! ☺

I simply use rubbing alcohol on a folded paper towel, Does a good job and evaporates/dries almost immediately.

If a really tough area, I use scotch bright knock-offs from the 99 cent store first.

I use 91% isopropyl alcohol on a soft cloth on Atlas O 3-rail track. Traction tires seem to leave a residue after a few hours of running so I clean the track often.

MELGAR