Track for Layout

Super Snap track is very similar to O gauge 031 track, it can be put together with or without track pins but it does best to use O gauge track pins as it holds together better. The curve sizes are 031 & 072 currently along with switches in both sizes.

Check out the RMT website for more info on it.

 

Lee Fritz

Lots of great advice here! I started with the track that came in my first train set, which was 027 tubular track. Then, for the sake of cost (it is very inexpensive) and because the limit of its curved pieces helped me focus on shorter trains and engines - which again, suited my personal preferences (there are many more expansive options for curved track in 027 now). I admire other track systems but, personally, found them expensive.

Having now searched it, I agree it's more similar to standard O. Looks like O tubular with a blacked center rail and more realistic ties. Still looks like a great track system, just not for me with my "nostalgic" layouts centered around postwar trains and scenery items.

 

Might be my choice if I did a hi-rail layout though

One item I haven't seen discussed in this thread are Lionel's 5166 & 5165 072 turnouts. Yes, they do seem to be made of lesser quality materials than the US made Postwar 022's in a lot of ways, but do they still operate okay?  What have your experiences with those been like?

I will have to agree with LDBennett in his assessment of RealTrax.  The original RealTrax that was packed in with a set from 2002 was tough as nails and worked like a charm.  Because of that, I bought RealTrax for my next layout and it was a disaster, especially the switches.  I dislike brand bashing, because every company can have a bad run of product, but I would be hesitant to buy RealTrax again.  I hope the switch problems have been resolved by the manufacturer on their current product.

 

As with many others, I wholeheartedly agree that Ross switches and Gargraves track are the way to go.  Many hobby shops carry the products, so its easier to track some down if your local dealer has run out of the type you're using.  I have abused this track by pulling it up and repositioning it or removing it completely and using it again on my next layout, and have never had a problem with it.

 

Have fun creating your layout.

 

Mike 

 

 

I am at a crossroads myself and need to choose a track system for my new layout.  I tore down my old one which had Ross/Gargraves track.  I would like to go with the Atlas, but understand that it will be at least November before I can get the switches.  If they delay, I may very well just go back to Ross for my turnouts, which are readily available.

Track choice depends on what you want in a layout and operation.

 

O27 is the best choice if you want to run smaller locos, want a smaller layout, want lots of track in a small space. It is very easy to find used and real cheap. 

 

I my case I had Marx locos and wanted lots of switches and track and to run several trains in a small portable layout. I went with Marx switches because they the only ones to pass wide flange Marx steamer drivers.  They also cost me $5 or less each for the 27 on my layout

 

Any of the brands of O, in other radius, can be used if you want to run larger scale sized locos, want sweeping curves, less track and more realistic scenery.

 

You are the only one who knows what you want, can afford and will be happy with.  Take the time to find out about your wants and needs so will not make a mistake and then have to have a costly, in money and time, redo.

 

Charlie

I have the 031 equivalent of those switches and I would not recommend them, as they tend to burn out inside; a wire melts because Lionel used too small a wire in the switch. The wire that burnt out on me was yellow in color and I replaced it with a larger gauge wire and didn't have any more problems, but I sold the switch within a year.

 

Look at K-Line switches in 072 or RMT switches in 072, as they work very well.

 

Don't get the K-Line by Lionel as I am not sure if they are K-Line or Lionel insides.

 

Lee Fritz

Something else that has not been mentioned is that Marx or Ives made some track many years ago and it looks like 027 however some of the curves are 034 in 027 profile.

 

I started out with setting up 031 track when I was 9 years old, had to get my dad to help me wire the 022 switches. It was a layout in the basement around the holidays. He liked to use C-7 holiday lights in the buildings and some of the buildings warped(plastic ones) or got burnt(card board or paper).

 

I have tried Fastrack and have come back to tubular track with Gargraves switches & track and may change them out this coming year to Ross switches.

 

Lee Fritz

If you are just starting I would suggest looking at all the track systems out there, especially cost factor. But the final choice will be yours. Make a diagram of what you want as a layout. Also take into consideration the future and what you may buy down the road. If you go small with curves then you will restrict yourself on what you can run. And to redo the layout is a lot of extra work. Enjoy building your layout............Paul

Atlas Track or Gargraves track with Ross Switches or Atlas Switches is what I run my stuff on with the various clubs I belong to.

I have a 12 ft X 24 ft layout.   All done with Fasttrack, 90% is 072 curves and switches.   Interior of a 3ft x 4 ft is 036 fasttrack and 036 switches.   95% of switches are connected to SC-2's and operated with Legacy remote.  Layout is 4 years old on 4x8 3/4 plywood with 2" pink 4x8 foam on top.  Track is not fastened down and has not moved. I am very pleased with this layout as I just want to run trains.

Also look at the switch possibilities. Ross Custom Switches has more selection then any other company does, even cross-overs and yard switches and curved switches with two different curve sizes(054 and 072).

 

Most other companies limit you to a straight and a curve section for the switch.

 

Lee Fritz

 IMO its worth the effort of checking it out further "hands on". 

 

 The most notible point is, its ties and base isnt made of a hard, brittle feeling plastic. It seems softer and more flexible, like a nylon compound.    

 

  It looked so much like a black Super O, thats what I thought it was at first, a modern SO.

 Maybe not exactly the right choice for PW, but a neat alternative to the slots SO can carve into shoes & rollers.

And don't forget that ROSS make "O" Gauge Tinplate Switches now. I used 4 of their # 4 switches and my 2nd last layout. They mated up EXACYLY with track pins in to my K-Line and Lionel track. The same tubular track and height of K -Line Super and Snap Track, Lionel "O" gauge and Williams and Probably the New Menards Track.

 

Larry, do you know is those Ross tin turnouts are compatible with the fat drivers, and/or early tall flanges?

I think Electroliner may have found something non-compatible about them, but I cant remember the exact issue. 

You may not know the answer, but any idea if radii other than O-31 and O-72 are on the horizon? If I were to do a Super O dealer display replica I might consider this because of availability, but all those displays were designed with O-36 Super O. Would require a redesign if they're sticking with the present radii only.

Adriatic - I have no specs on these Ross Switches.  I suggest you e mail or phone Ross directly.

You ask a simple question...

 

But seriously, folks - 

 

1- Traditional, toy look - Lionel tubular

 

2 - Layout to be handled "roughly" a lot - same

 

3 - Best-looking, as realistic as 3-rail can look, but I suspect too delicate to move around much - MTH ScaleTrax (NOT RealTrax)

 

4 - Less good-looking than ScaleTrax, same issues (from experience) as MTH ScaleTrax - AtlasO

 

5 - MTH RealTrax - just so ugly. Didn't have to be. Don't know about issues

 

6 - Lionel Fastack - nice high-end toy; tough-ish; almost a great product, nice low rails - but those rails are U-shaped. Yikes.

 

7 - GG and Ross - my favorite, at the end of the day. Not without faults - those chrome rails! Yikes, again - but it looks plausible, is electrically simple and reliable, the pins I like. I find the GG switches to be fine; the Ross are probably better; try both and decide. Fairly tough track. Straightforward. 

Just spray those rails with camo brown - looks like most real rails.

 

8 - Snap-Track? Don't know. Some of it is immensely tall.

 

 

 

 

  And those Marx turnouts aren't all compatible with all Lionels .

  I have two plastic manual Marx that derail any Lionel PW steam

I've seen tubular in 0-27,29,31,34,36, and 72. I think there was 42,48,& 54.

I know of tubular 0-27, 31, and 72 turnouts.

 

Ross vs GG turnouts, Ross always seemed more available.

Ross vs GG track, GG was always more available.

GG looked better to me as most ties were black with oil in my memory

Atlas track because I like solid rail and Ross switches because of their many options and they mate well with Atlas track.
Ray.

Many wise comments here about seeing as many different types of track as possible.  Also, really think about your goals with the layout and realistic timetables for achieving them (especially if you're new at all this like me).

 

Several have commented on their dislike for or problems with MTH Realtrax.  However, when one has had a fairly positive experience (as I have), I think it's worth posting.

 

An MTH RTR set was what got me started in this enjoyable hobby.  I enlarged the oval to a 4x8 which of course involved buying more track and switches--by then I had more dollars invested invested in Realtrax.  After seeing some larger layouts, I realized that I wanted to expand beyond the 4x8 and was able to secure a 25x12 area in our basement. 

 

My goal then was to get a layout planned with some trains actually running on it to "test" it -- in a fairly short period of time.  So sticking with the Realtrax was the way to go for me, accepting its limitations (no curved switches, etc.) compared to what so many consider as the gold standard: Gargraves track and Ross switches. 

 

On the other hand, the attached roadbed made it fairly easy for me to actually "build" the layout on the floor so I could see how the flow of the track plan actually worked.  Granted, not having curved switches limited our design options.

 

Anyway, here are a few photos of the layout progress to date using MTH Realtrax, a product which has really worked out pretty well for me.

 

I'm still looking for ideas as to how to best fill in the south dogbone area--but that should be in a separate post I think.

 

When I first started running trains on this layout, I, too, experienced some rail misalignments which caused some derailments.  However, with the right pliers and just a tidge of bending of the rail I solved those alignment issues.

 

I've attached a a few photos and a video. Among my goals at the outset were: two   mainlines permitting several trains to run at once and with direction reversing capability for both the outer and inner mainlines, all this without any grade changes (at least for now).

 

PS: Sorry for the jiggles on the video--will use a tripod next time.