Track for Layout

There are literally dozens of options.

 

Everything ranging from old school Lionel "SuperO" and O27 tubular all the way to FasTrack and Realtrax

 

Decide what you want to accomplish with your railway first, then the track choice might come obviously to you.

I think this is great advice.

Thanks, I was just speaking from experience.

 

Fastrak is an amazing system, there are so many things you can do with it, Realtrax is the same. I used Fastrak before and it was fine but now I don't have the space for it so O27 it is.  O27 is also perfect for what I want my layout to accomplish. I went from semi-prototypical to simple tinscale fun.

 

It's all about what you want to do with your trains. There are track options out there to satisfy even the most discerning miniature chooch enthusiast.

 

 

1) Use as wide a radius as your space allows.  So many regret not doing this I lost count..

2) Tube track has been around for like 100 years, and is proven; Fast Track has not.  What does gray plastic look like after 5, 10 years of oily plastic & metal trains running over it?

3) Keep it simple!  98% of the folks I talk to don't fiddle around with gobs of switches and yard tracks they jammed into their design.  At the end of the day, you're gonna be sitting back and running mainline trains, so design your layout as such.

My two cents

Like everyone said, it really depends on what you want your layout to be.

 

The classic is tubular. If your looking for a classic toy train look, that's the way to go. But, one caution about that...its discontinued. There is still plenty of new stock but going forward, new will be harder and harder to find.

 

Fastrack and Realtrack are good for a "throw it down quick and has a semi realistic look" track. 

 

Gargraves and Atlas O are (in my opinion) the most realistic looking of the bunch. But it takes a bit of work to achieve a proper realistic look. 

I built my layout with tubular, for a bunch of reasons that may or may not be relevant to you. Here's why I did what I did.

• My layout combines 0 and Standard Gauge. I wanted a more classic, period look for the Standard Gauge, and that meant tubular.
• Of the three loops of 0 gauge track, the innermost is set up with postwar-style operating accessories. These are a lot easier to install with tubular than with anything else. 
• I have a collection of ETS European tinplate, which uses sliders rather than rollers for center-rail power. The squared-off profile of Gargraves or other realistic track tends to wear a groove in the sliders, and they are expensive to replace. Tubular track is much easier on the power pickups. 
• I could have done the two wide-radius 0 gauge main lines in realistic track, as I'll be running scale-type equipment on those two lines. However, I opted for a consistent look throughout the layout, so I did those lines in tubular as well. The outermost is 072 and the second is rare 063 track by K-Line.
• Finally, I already had quite a bit of tubular track, which meant the net cost of track was going to be a lot cheaper with tubular than any other option.

My inner loop is the only one that has any switches. The curves are 042 and the switches are low-profile 042 switches by K-Line. These are out of production now. Lionel was making them for a while after K-Line went out of business, but Lionel has ceased production of those switches. I don't know where the tooling wound up. You can still find them on the secondary market.

 

The most important factor is how you envision your layout. If you are looking at something in the traditional style, i.e. tinplate or postwar, or if you want to use a lot of Lionel operating accessories, tubular may be the way to go. It's also the cheapest and easiest to use. If you are more concerned with realism, Gargraves, Ross, or Atlas would be the way to go. 

Not discontinued, Lionel has stopped production til overstocks dwindle. Also Williams still makes it, Menards is planning to make it available this fall and there is so much out there old and NOS that even if production was stopped finding it is not going to get hard for years.

 

Jerry

I have two layouts.  My first uses tubular track with 0-54 and 0-72 curves.  It is a prewar tinplate layout with a great many Lionel accessories and tubular track is just what I wanted.  My other layout is hi rail and I am using Gargraves track and Ross switches and gives me the realistic look I want for this layout.

 

Al

I'll tell you which is a bad track to use is, and that would be...the broken ones 

 

There have been a few "dud" pieces of about everything along the way. But really you need to know what you want from your track. Conductivity, rustproof, roadbed, ties, flex, hidden center rail, rail shape (flanges), rail code(height).

Manual, electric or command turnouts,(now or later).

Room available, and can you even run on 0-27 ?, or 0-31 ?, or 0-42 etc etc.

Does 0-27 or non-scale bother you even a little? Yes? Get you best ocd rivet counting face on, count yourself some nail heads, and lay your own track. 

 

Transition between types can be done. And more easily if you screw things down. Screws would allow flex track too. 

 

K line super snap I think is made by RMT now. A very cool track that reminds me of Lionel Super O.

 

Lionel O is a more robust product than 0-27.

Jon C

Lets start with how much room you have, do you have a layout plan, Are you planning to go with a real scale like look or toy train appearance?  Also do have and are you good with a Dremel?  Do you want any turnouts on the layout? 

 

You have options and providing us some guidance to your layout options will help with track selection

Steve

Whatever you can find the for the least amount of money. It all works.

 

Now, if you want to be more specific about your layout plans, then perhaps we could be more specific.

I would look at your engines and rolling stock and see what Diameter curves that they require. I initially stayed away from O27 diameter curves because it is very limiting on your choice of engines and rolling stock.

 

Tinplate sometimes has deep flanges. low profile rail and deep flanges do not mix well.

Under no circumstances use MTH RealTrax. I have regretted the day I decided to use it on my 7 x 9 layout. Here are some of the problems:

 

There are no guide pins in the rails and the alignment of the rails is not adequate leaving edges for the rims of the wheels to clunk into. The trains do not run smoothly.

 

The switches are poorly design and poorly made. The anti-derailment feature on all seven of mine were disabled at manufacture. The points of the switches are poorly designed with guide rails for the frog that allow the rim of the wheels to bump into the edges of the frog again making the running not smooth. In fact every one had to be disassembled to fix the internals to assure complete travel of the points. Several of my engines short out when passing through the some switch's points because of a combination of center roller pickup placement on the engine and the way the points are electrified. Note that all my engines and track are MTH.

 

My latest track/engine fiasco is my new MTH Allegheny 2-6-6-6 made for O-31 curves will not run on MTH O-31 curves. Turns out MTH O-31 is 31 inches from the outside of the plastic ballast to the opposite outside of the ballast or really O-29 not O31. The Allegheny binds on the RealTrax O-31 enough to stall the front set of drivers.

 

As an aside, I made the mistake of using lots of O-31 curves to maximize the amount of track on the layout. That was a mistake too. I would have been better served with less track and bigger curves. For me it is too late as my layout is pretty much complete and my $1000 investment in RealTrax track and switches would be lost if I re-tracked the layout now. I reworked the track and switches so it is adequate  and useful but not anywhere close to perfect.

 

Bottom line: don't use RealTrax. I have two 3 ft section of Atlas flex track on the layout and the trains run great on it.

 

LDBennett

I was mistaken.

 

Thanks for correcting me Jerry

I prefer to use a combination of tubular track; 031 & 042 along with Gargraves track. One big plus with tubular is that you can cut & piece track together very easy.

 

I use 027 for an around the room layout near the ceiling and on my second level. 027 has at least 2 curve radius's; 27 & 42 inch curves, plus you can add in Gargraves track with some adapter pins.

 

FYI; tubular track is easy to find and is still made by at least 4 companies. Rmt, Williams by Bachmann, Gargraves and Ross all make tubular track.

 

I have tried Fastrack and find it very limiting and extremely expensive, also not that flexible, so beginners may want to stay away from it.

 

My findings with my use of track systems; I don't use Lionel current production tubular switches(6-23010), second Gargraves switches may give you problems with MTH steam engines at the switch areas. Fastrack is not any better for electrical issues and don't fit together well if you try to free-lance a track design.

 

E Z Streets or Super Streets(former K-Line name) is another nice system but you must know what you are doing as this system will give you trouble if you don't know what you are doing with it. Use a number 4 Phillips head screw(half inch or three quarters inch long) to fasten the E Z Track to a layout surface. Also the power wires are best supplied to a 10 inch straight section as you can hook-up both wires to a 10 inch section. Another thing is the use of curve to straight track or curve to curve two and a half inch pieces because of the width for the wheel clearance before & after a curve. And the electrical connectors can be removed and the track pieces swapped around as well.

Williams by Bachmann has very limited instructions for use with it, even the website has NO detailed instructions.

 

Lee Fritz

 I used K-Line Shadow Rail for the same reason. Combines a bit of realism with the reliability of tubular. 

  first thing I would do is check availability, recently many of the track systems that are made overseas have been in short supply. I know people who have waited over a year for switches and track.

 

  secondly check for the configuration you are going for and see if in fact the curves and switches you are planning on using are actually cataloged  and made by that manufacturer.

 

  thirdly I would search for problems associated with certain track types and the solutions to these problems and the manufacturers ability and willingness to help you solve these problems.

 

  With all that said, Ross Track and switches are made right here in the USA. their price point is less than the imports. they stock every imaginable curve and switch radius, and if out of stock they will make it for you in a very short time right here in Connecticut USA.

 

Their customer service is next to none! when and if you have a problem and call them on the phone (which they answer) you will be speaking to the people who actually made your product, not someone hired to answer the phone, so they will know what to do to find a solution. and did I mention they are the only system made right here in the USA. (maybe I did)

 

 A No Brainer for Me

 

Maryann

I agree with the initial advice by Steam Wolf[Fuzz].Plan your railroad and then your track brand. You might even end up with wood tie Gargraves Flextrack.

If fastrack roadbed is getting covered with oil you need to rethink your lubricating habits. That much oil will make a mess of any track.

 

My layout is currently 10 years old and "unsceniced/weathered" track looks just the same as when I bought it.

 

 

 

 

Heres some with ballast glued to the shoulders and painted rails:

 

 

 

 

Heres some painted, ballasted with some chalked added to give it a "dirty" yard look. The scenery base was raised even with the roadbed to give it a lower profile "yard track " look.

 

 

 

 

 I've been very happy with fastrack. There are folks who are happy with every brand. In the end, pick the one you like. 

You can't go wrong with FasTrack.

 

I agree with the others saying to select what you like. I think all the track systems available today are good ones. They all have pros and cons. There is no perfect track system. One person's pro may be another person's con. Like the trash and treasure thing... 

 

Go to your local hobby shop or train store and look at all the track they carry. If you don't have a retail store nearby, Trackwork For Toy Trains, by Peter Riddle is a pretty good book on selecting and using most of the track available today, including Pros and Cons for each. Pick the track system that you like the best and that fits your needs and go with it. If you are still uncertain, buy a loop of track you think you like and try it out. If you don't like it, lightly used track can be sold for close to what you paid for it.

 

If you like a system and have a problem with it someone here will have a work around for it. The folks here use every track system known to man and they all like what they are using. They have figured out how to make the track they like work reliably.

I am a complete novice with model trains, Fastrack for me is great, to me it is "brent proof", as of today every piece has worked (do not understand why) and is treated fairly rough. A few pieces have been  cleaned fron time to time.

 

Brent

Jon C, Lionel used this track at their (former) corporate headquarters layout on Madison Avenue, NYC, and on their layout @ F.A.O. Schwarz, and I believe is what they use @ Macy's, NYC. It gets a whole lot of wear and use, and seems to hold up very, very well, a fact I am well  acquainted with first-hand. You may, indeed, want to consider using theirs, seen here...

 

...at Madison Ave.

...at 5th Ave.

FrankM.

Layout Refinements

It took a 320 pound pal stepping on my traditional O all day to slightly bend it.

 O is taller than O-27 too.

 Turnout switch machines can be moved on some turnouts to aid design.

(A motor and control, to throw a switch isn't always in the price, shop smart)

 

If you intend to ever run any old "fat driver" engines(Marx), you'll have to be careful with flange/gear clearances. It will likely be a specific looping direction only. 

 

 

Tubular if you're not going for realism (even with it, realism can be achieved, it'll just take a bit of work). Fastrack is ok. I like Super O but there aren't many options with it (though if you google you'll find that people have found ways to make custom radii)

 

As to the discussion that Tubular is not being made any longer, Menards is now rolling out a line of tube track.

I'm beginning to start building a layout and i was wondering what a good track is to use. Thanks

 

Jon

 

That all depends on you, your trains and what you want from a layout.

 

What track systems do you have experience with?  Have you worked with track in any other scale?  Do you have a Dremel tool and like using it?

 

What trains do you have or would you like to have?  O-27?  Any O-72 only equipment?  Any desire to use Kadee couplers ?

 

What kind of look do you want, classic toy train or three rail O scale model railroad?  How much space do you have?

 

If you like a traditional view, I would suggest Lionel O Gauge Tubular.

 

If you want a modern hi-rail look I suggest Ross Switches and Gargraves flex track.

 

Search the forum, you will not find the phrase "My engine stalled on a Ross switch".

 

There is virtually no track geometry you cannot achieve with Ross and Gargraves.  Ross has a tremendous selection of switches. And being flexible you do great things with Gargraves track.

When you think you know what you want, go look at a layout built with it.  If you still think that is what you want, then check out its availability to make sure later that may not be a problem.  

Good luck and know when you are through laying the track you will be glad of your decision.  

 

Ross has great track also, not just great switches.

 

The unfortunate truth is that there is no single, perfect track system for 3 rail.

The two primary types of train running are:

 

temporary floor layouts 

or

permanently built layouts.

 

For floor running, Fastrack is hard to argue with. Great connections, requires very few drops and the switches are super smooth. If using the TMCC version of the switches, no additional wiring is needed. The downside is the cost and limited flexibility.

 

 

 

Permanent layout situations don't have a clear cut winner:

 

Ross/Gargraves is a solid performing combination but the larger ties and tinplate rail aren't up to current expectations of scale appearance.

 

Atlas has a solid library of track but availability has been a recent issue and the reliability of their switches has been a well-known problem.

The rails are far too heavy as well to be considered passable for a true scale offering.

 

MTH's scaletrax has a much smaller rail but the tie spacing is far too wide for standard mainline and it's not carried by many dealers.

 

Traditional tubular O gauge is an option for those looking for nostalgia. 

It probably requires more frequent power drops and doesn't stay connected in floor running situations very well without using track clips.

The modern 022 switches seem to get some bad marks while most feel that those produced in the postwar years are still very reliable and easily repaired.

 

 

Fastrack is stil an option for permanent builds. The sound produced by the hollow roadbed and hollow rails can be a concern. The switch offerings don't yet include curved switches or yard ladders, etc. nor are there unballasted sections for elevated track on bridges, etc.

Weathered examples of Fastrack on permanent layouts have looked pretty impressive.

 

 

     Gar Graves track Ross switches end of story! Choo Choo Kenny

All I've ever personally had is tube and Super O, and I can't recall a single time that the tube came apart while running on the floor (Christmas, etc) unless the rails are misshapen for some reason. The big thing is to ensure the rails themselves are not bent out of shape or widened at the openings so that the pins remain locked tight. If one twists to get them apart thats where issues begin.But, they can be put back into shape with some pliers.

Jon C,

    Having built layouts with just about all the different manufacturers track and there is lots of good stuff out there, do your home work before you purchase.  If you are looking for track that can accommodate all the different O Guage engines and rolling stock, including Tin Plate take a good look at K-Line Super Snap now engineered and produced by RMT, simply great stuff.  I also recommend FasTrack with low voltage Command Control Switches, fantastic stuff.  Rick O and and others have engineered layouts that are so realistic using it, that there is no longer any argument that FT layouts can be super realistic.  I still have my Lionel Conventional Tubular in both O and 027, still great stuff, especially with the older 711 and 072 high voltage switches.  All three of these different O Gauge tracks, are great stuff depending on what kind layout you choose to build.  If you only plan to run post war and modern O Gauge Trains, IMO Ross is top dog, nothing better engineered to this date, for our hobby.  These are the manufacturers track I recommend, they all run DCS and Legacy extremely well also.

Good luck with your new layout and have fun.

PCRR/Dave

  

After using several types of track I am back to tubular(1960's style Lionel track) and Gargraves track, as it stays together very well and can be cut to fit with little or no problems other hen adding in track pins. I started out with 031 track and am back to using it again, works very well.

 

The older Lionel switches(the TRUE 022's) hold up almost forever with just some routine cleaning and other light maintenance.

 

Modern Lionel switches don't seem to hold up for long, maybe one year to a year & a half and then they just quit working electrically, especially the 6-23010 & 23011.

I had five of the 6-23010 & 23011 series of switch and will never use another one of them, one would throw the switch point almost 50 times a minute when any of my Williams engines and only Williams(worked fine with Lionel engines)got within two tack sections of it and another acted like a blinking light on a Christmas tree before it shorted out completely.

 

I have tried Fastrack and I don't care for it. It's a bit more expensive to purchase and will try your patience as it don't fit well together unless you follow a Lionel track plan exactly to the letter. I had a small 3 foot by 9 foot layout of Fastrack to try it.

Maybe it's just me but it is very loud when running anything on it and has very poor electrical connections. I could have gotten some bad track, but I traded it off at a train show.

 

Lee Fritz

There are almost as many types of track as there are opinions posted here. Do yourself a favor by purchasing one of the better hobby guides. Read through it a few times. Then you should have a good idea of what is out there and what choices you have. When in doubt about anything in this hobby it is best to read as much as possible. Then you can form your own ideas with the help of others.

I have to agree with you!! Gargraves track & switches kept me in O gauge.

 

Lee Fritz

Do you experienced guys find any of the newer tubular track at decent prices?  The only Fastrack I have came with my (or, ahem, my son's) Polar Express set, and I want to add more layout space but that stuff is insanely priced.  Tubular track I've found locally (Craigslist) or ebay has been rusty or pitted enough that I haven't wanted to chance it.  A Menard's option sounds particularly intriguing if my local store is going to carry it.

You can buy tubular track new from ether RMT or Williams by Bachmann. The price may be better at RMT then Bachmann.

Or look around through the online stores like www.trainworld.com or www.westerndepot.com and buy some new tubular track there at a good price.

 

Lee Fritz

Agreed about O being more robust, but the lower profile of O-27 is nice, and it's available in a ton of different radii these days.

 

I'm not familiar with Super Snap, but if it's similar to Super O and available in more radii/with more switches, I'll have to check it out!

Super Snap track is very similar to O gauge 031 track, it can be put together with or without track pins but it does best to use O gauge track pins as it holds together better. The curve sizes are 031 & 072 currently along with switches in both sizes.

Check out the RMT website for more info on it.

 

Lee Fritz

Lots of great advice here! I started with the track that came in my first train set, which was 027 tubular track. Then, for the sake of cost (it is very inexpensive) and because the limit of its curved pieces helped me focus on shorter trains and engines - which again, suited my personal preferences (there are many more expansive options for curved track in 027 now). I admire other track systems but, personally, found them expensive.

Having now searched it, I agree it's more similar to standard O. Looks like O tubular with a blacked center rail and more realistic ties. Still looks like a great track system, just not for me with my "nostalgic" layouts centered around postwar trains and scenery items.

 

Might be my choice if I did a hi-rail layout though

One item I haven't seen discussed in this thread are Lionel's 5166 & 5165 072 turnouts. Yes, they do seem to be made of lesser quality materials than the US made Postwar 022's in a lot of ways, but do they still operate okay?  What have your experiences with those been like?

I will have to agree with LDBennett in his assessment of RealTrax.  The original RealTrax that was packed in with a set from 2002 was tough as nails and worked like a charm.  Because of that, I bought RealTrax for my next layout and it was a disaster, especially the switches.  I dislike brand bashing, because every company can have a bad run of product, but I would be hesitant to buy RealTrax again.  I hope the switch problems have been resolved by the manufacturer on their current product.

 

As with many others, I wholeheartedly agree that Ross switches and Gargraves track are the way to go.  Many hobby shops carry the products, so its easier to track some down if your local dealer has run out of the type you're using.  I have abused this track by pulling it up and repositioning it or removing it completely and using it again on my next layout, and have never had a problem with it.

 

Have fun creating your layout.

 

Mike 

 

 

I am at a crossroads myself and need to choose a track system for my new layout.  I tore down my old one which had Ross/Gargraves track.  I would like to go with the Atlas, but understand that it will be at least November before I can get the switches.  If they delay, I may very well just go back to Ross for my turnouts, which are readily available.

Track choice depends on what you want in a layout and operation.

 

O27 is the best choice if you want to run smaller locos, want a smaller layout, want lots of track in a small space. It is very easy to find used and real cheap. 

 

I my case I had Marx locos and wanted lots of switches and track and to run several trains in a small portable layout. I went with Marx switches because they the only ones to pass wide flange Marx steamer drivers.  They also cost me $5 or less each for the 27 on my layout

 

Any of the brands of O, in other radius, can be used if you want to run larger scale sized locos, want sweeping curves, less track and more realistic scenery.

 

You are the only one who knows what you want, can afford and will be happy with.  Take the time to find out about your wants and needs so will not make a mistake and then have to have a costly, in money and time, redo.

 

Charlie

I have the 031 equivalent of those switches and I would not recommend them, as they tend to burn out inside; a wire melts because Lionel used too small a wire in the switch. The wire that burnt out on me was yellow in color and I replaced it with a larger gauge wire and didn't have any more problems, but I sold the switch within a year.

 

Look at K-Line switches in 072 or RMT switches in 072, as they work very well.

 

Don't get the K-Line by Lionel as I am not sure if they are K-Line or Lionel insides.

 

Lee Fritz

Something else that has not been mentioned is that Marx or Ives made some track many years ago and it looks like 027 however some of the curves are 034 in 027 profile.

 

I started out with setting up 031 track when I was 9 years old, had to get my dad to help me wire the 022 switches. It was a layout in the basement around the holidays. He liked to use C-7 holiday lights in the buildings and some of the buildings warped(plastic ones) or got burnt(card board or paper).

 

I have tried Fastrack and have come back to tubular track with Gargraves switches & track and may change them out this coming year to Ross switches.

 

Lee Fritz

If you are just starting I would suggest looking at all the track systems out there, especially cost factor. But the final choice will be yours. Make a diagram of what you want as a layout. Also take into consideration the future and what you may buy down the road. If you go small with curves then you will restrict yourself on what you can run. And to redo the layout is a lot of extra work. Enjoy building your layout............Paul

Atlas Track or Gargraves track with Ross Switches or Atlas Switches is what I run my stuff on with the various clubs I belong to.

I have a 12 ft X 24 ft layout.   All done with Fasttrack, 90% is 072 curves and switches.   Interior of a 3ft x 4 ft is 036 fasttrack and 036 switches.   95% of switches are connected to SC-2's and operated with Legacy remote.  Layout is 4 years old on 4x8 3/4 plywood with 2" pink 4x8 foam on top.  Track is not fastened down and has not moved. I am very pleased with this layout as I just want to run trains.

Also look at the switch possibilities. Ross Custom Switches has more selection then any other company does, even cross-overs and yard switches and curved switches with two different curve sizes(054 and 072).

 

Most other companies limit you to a straight and a curve section for the switch.

 

Lee Fritz

 IMO its worth the effort of checking it out further "hands on". 

 

 The most notible point is, its ties and base isnt made of a hard, brittle feeling plastic. It seems softer and more flexible, like a nylon compound.    

 

  It looked so much like a black Super O, thats what I thought it was at first, a modern SO.

 Maybe not exactly the right choice for PW, but a neat alternative to the slots SO can carve into shoes & rollers.

And don't forget that ROSS make "O" Gauge Tinplate Switches now. I used 4 of their # 4 switches and my 2nd last layout. They mated up EXACYLY with track pins in to my K-Line and Lionel track. The same tubular track and height of K -Line Super and Snap Track, Lionel "O" gauge and Williams and Probably the New Menards Track.

 

Larry, do you know is those Ross tin turnouts are compatible with the fat drivers, and/or early tall flanges?

I think Electroliner may have found something non-compatible about them, but I cant remember the exact issue. 

You may not know the answer, but any idea if radii other than O-31 and O-72 are on the horizon? If I were to do a Super O dealer display replica I might consider this because of availability, but all those displays were designed with O-36 Super O. Would require a redesign if they're sticking with the present radii only.

Adriatic - I have no specs on these Ross Switches.  I suggest you e mail or phone Ross directly.

You ask a simple question...

 

But seriously, folks - 

 

1- Traditional, toy look - Lionel tubular

 

2 - Layout to be handled "roughly" a lot - same

 

3 - Best-looking, as realistic as 3-rail can look, but I suspect too delicate to move around much - MTH ScaleTrax (NOT RealTrax)

 

4 - Less good-looking than ScaleTrax, same issues (from experience) as MTH ScaleTrax - AtlasO

 

5 - MTH RealTrax - just so ugly. Didn't have to be. Don't know about issues

 

6 - Lionel Fastack - nice high-end toy; tough-ish; almost a great product, nice low rails - but those rails are U-shaped. Yikes.

 

7 - GG and Ross - my favorite, at the end of the day. Not without faults - those chrome rails! Yikes, again - but it looks plausible, is electrically simple and reliable, the pins I like. I find the GG switches to be fine; the Ross are probably better; try both and decide. Fairly tough track. Straightforward. 

Just spray those rails with camo brown - looks like most real rails.

 

8 - Snap-Track? Don't know. Some of it is immensely tall.

 

 

 

 

  And those Marx turnouts aren't all compatible with all Lionels .

  I have two plastic manual Marx that derail any Lionel PW steam

I've seen tubular in 0-27,29,31,34,36, and 72. I think there was 42,48,& 54.

I know of tubular 0-27, 31, and 72 turnouts.

 

Ross vs GG turnouts, Ross always seemed more available.

Ross vs GG track, GG was always more available.

GG looked better to me as most ties were black with oil in my memory

Atlas track because I like solid rail and Ross switches because of their many options and they mate well with Atlas track.
Ray.

Many wise comments here about seeing as many different types of track as possible.  Also, really think about your goals with the layout and realistic timetables for achieving them (especially if you're new at all this like me).

 

Several have commented on their dislike for or problems with MTH Realtrax.  However, when one has had a fairly positive experience (as I have), I think it's worth posting.

 

An MTH RTR set was what got me started in this enjoyable hobby.  I enlarged the oval to a 4x8 which of course involved buying more track and switches--by then I had more dollars invested invested in Realtrax.  After seeing some larger layouts, I realized that I wanted to expand beyond the 4x8 and was able to secure a 25x12 area in our basement. 

 

My goal then was to get a layout planned with some trains actually running on it to "test" it -- in a fairly short period of time.  So sticking with the Realtrax was the way to go for me, accepting its limitations (no curved switches, etc.) compared to what so many consider as the gold standard: Gargraves track and Ross switches. 

 

On the other hand, the attached roadbed made it fairly easy for me to actually "build" the layout on the floor so I could see how the flow of the track plan actually worked.  Granted, not having curved switches limited our design options.

 

Anyway, here are a few photos of the layout progress to date using MTH Realtrax, a product which has really worked out pretty well for me.

 

I'm still looking for ideas as to how to best fill in the south dogbone area--but that should be in a separate post I think.

 

When I first started running trains on this layout, I, too, experienced some rail misalignments which caused some derailments.  However, with the right pliers and just a tidge of bending of the rail I solved those alignment issues.

 

I've attached a a few photos and a video. Among my goals at the outset were: two   mainlines permitting several trains to run at once and with direction reversing capability for both the outer and inner mainlines, all this without any grade changes (at least for now).

 

PS: Sorry for the jiggles on the video--will use a tripod next time.