These are low stall current motors - these switch motors are designed have power applied to them continuously to keep constant pressure on the points - you can use a simple 12 volt "wall wart" (wall transformer) and power a bunch of them. They draw so little current (with the help of a 1K ohm resistor in series with one of the motor leads - as shown on the web page you listed above) that when they reach the full extent of the turnout throw and they just stall due to the points being tight against stock rail but they don't overheat even when the motor is kept from spinning. You can adjust the value of the series resistor if you wish to adjust how much pressure you want applied to the points. I believe they provide a 1K ohm resistor standard with each of their motors. You generally use a double-pole double-throw DPDT [NO CENTER OFF] toggle switch to just change the polarity of current going to the two motor leads (typical crisscross pattern on the outer toggle switch leads) to make the motor spin one way or the other.
This YouTube video describes the wiring of a Tortoise machine, but the same applies to these Hankscraft motors.
They draw about as much current as an LED when stalled, again, much like a Tortoise machine, and they are quite "torquey" due to the low gearing. Their primary application was that they were meant to be used as a display motor. If you have ever gone into a supermarket, say around Halloween, and seen a bunch of items stacked up in a main isle with some cardboard display pieces next to them promoting some seasonal sale and they might have a little fake bat flying in circles above the Halloween display attached to a piece of wire coming out of the display. Well.. the motor that would power the "flying bat" might be one of these Hankscraft gearhead display motors. Once the sale/season is over, the generally just toss the whole display and flying bat mechanism in the trash. Now... one other thing to note is that these Hankscraft brand display motors do come in various RPM ratings but the ones that Builders in Scale sells have the optimum RPM value for a nice slow-motion model railroad turnout actuator, just like the prototype. I think they are rated at like 2 RPM at 12 volts.
Another optional mounting method is to use these Rix Rax under the layout brackets designed specifically for these Hankscraft motors (see link below) and one nice feature about these brackets is that they provide a convenient way to add several microswitches for powering the frog and/or panel-mount LEDs. However, I know the old ones made of ABS plastic would basically disintegrate over time or the plastic paddles would crack at the shaft due to the high torque of the motor. This link below says that these new ones are made with new stronger plastic so your "mileage may vary" if you choose to go this route.