Trackplan Tweaked Again, Comments and Suggestions 11' x 13' room - bmp & jpeg

not commenting on the plan itself. Can you reach across 48" of table, track, accessories, and any scenery??? to reach the track that is up against the walls??. especially since the upper level is only 12" above the rest of the layout. I'd skip the upper level completely.

just my opinion.

Thanks

Mike

I have found with that size room, an around the wall layout is best.

Thanks to those who replied.

Mike

quote:

Originally posted by chipset:
I have found with that size room, an around the wall layout is best.

I have been thinking about the same approach; although mine is even a little smaller. The room is 9x14 and anything I've come with to fill the room isn't going to work for larger engines. I have bought a few large ones over the years and would like to run them. So an around the room layout with a lift out bridge would be best. That would allow a wide radius loop against the wall with a smaller radius on the inside with switching and accessories.

quote:

Originally posted by ezmike:
This is what I've come up with so far. The theme is toy train, post war operating accessories in conventional mode. The lower level is freight with the operating accessories. The upper level in blue is passenger service. The upper level will be about 10 - 12" above the lower. After seeing the PW display layout in the competing mag, I'm having second thoughts.

Comments and suggestions appreciated.

Mike

Mike, nice design, lots of action. Maybe an access hatch or one of those 3' long grabbers that you can use to pick up cars etc.
George

So, Bob, George and Chipset, you guys think what I've come up with is the best way to go? What do you think about the double reversing loop upper level set at 12" or more above the lower?

I already have one of those 3' grabbers and have eliminated any switches against the wall except for the one that allows access to the 456 Coal Ramp. If you can think of a better place for it, I'm all ears.

Thanks again,

Mike

Mike,
I like your design, in that there will be plenty of action. Having said that, as FEC fan said, you have an awful long reach to the far corners of the short wall.
The 3' grabber may help but how do you reach over or under the trestle to get to that lower track in the corner? I was looking for a popup but the only possibility is on the right side where an upper track cut s across on a diagonal. That 1 sq foot could lift out and give you reaching room; unless you are a stick figure all you could get up is an arm. I guess that 20 years ago I wouldn't have worried about this stuff; but now it's all about no strain.

Three Levels around the walls is better in that size room.

Andrew

Bob has a good suggestion:
I have a 9x16 in a small attic space and decided to install around-the-wall with a Dropgate access located straight in from the entrance door. I have 36" bench width on one side and went to 42" on the other as well as across the 9' wide rear wall, necessary to accomodate my dual mainline spaced 6" from the wall,Yard,Coaling,Sand and Water Tower,etc. I am 6'3" tall and the 42" side is a "reach"[best handled when standing on my toolbox].[the benchwork is 42" high].

On the 9' rear wall I left triangular open access spaces in each corner to better reach the corner areas of the layout. [Lift-out scenery could be utilized in those corners]. My curve arcs are 072/084 and 084/096---all track is recycled Gargraves flextrack, Ross and Curtis switches.

I recently dismantled two large layouts in 2/08[mountain cotttage]& 10/09 [here]. Both worked me unecessarily due to poor access for scenicking and maintenance. This one is a "Senior Citizens" simple,small layout built with recycled layout stuff and has easier access due to round-the-wall benchwork. It is still "raw" but I can run trains while I procrastinate about completing it--somewhat!

A Lift Bridge or Dropgate [Barrettgate"] is worth considering, not that difficult and OGR's Backshop DVD #11 shows how-to for both.

ps:
As posted on another thread---one guy had a Dropgate on the lower level and a lift Bridge above it for his upper tracks---at the access entrance. Unfortunately he died in a propare explosion and I never got a photo.

Awesome layout but as others suggest-
Access to back areas and corners poor
Second level may need work, how bout just concealing
holding tracks for already made up consists?
and will buy a 3 sided layout also!
An option to an upper level could be that of an elevated trolley
setup with stop n go ends and intermittent stops. It gives
continual action too without any help. If you have 2 MTH
auto passenger stations you can rig em up for some
real life pasengers taking the trolley and dropping off.

L

Thanks guys for the comments and suggestions. I have some tough decisions and or compromises to make regarding the upper level. Reaching into the two corners is tough, with or without the upper level.

Mike

ezmike, Dewey has some good advise. The around the walls design he describes might be a good solution for you to think about. You can get bigger curves into a layout of your room size.

That said it is your layout and do what is best for you. The double reversing loops on the top level are fine.

George

Thanks guys, I have a decision to make. Although I like what I've come up with , the 1957 Lionel layout is pretty cool, even with the up and down and the recent 4 level layout in the other mag is interesting as well. It's probably easier to keep what I have a work on it.

Mike

quote:

Originally posted by ezmike:
This is what I've come up with so far. The theme is toy train, post war operating accessories in conventional mode. The lower level is freight with the operating accessories. The upper level in blue is passenger service. The upper level will be about 10 - 12" above the lower. After seeing the PW display layout in the competing mag, I'm having second thoughts.

Comments and suggestions appreciated.

Mike

Hi Mike,

Looks like we're both facing some of the same design constraints with regards to the room size and the desire for lots of track and operating accessories. I ended up compromising on the operating accessories and moved towards an easier to reach and operate layout(see attached). To increase the accessibility to within 36" all the way around, going to a third level for your layout might be an option.

Chad

Chad,
Is that a picture or a website? It opens with just a lot of hash.

quote:

Originally posted by pennsyfan:
Chad,
Is that a picture or a website? It opens with just a lot of hash.

Hi Bob,
SorenvilleRR.rrt is a RR-Track document, for which you will need the software to view it. I have to right-click and choose save link as... in order to view it in RR-Track. But, I do have a pdf version that should open without issue, it just doesn't show the grades well.

Chad A

EZ,

I like the plan essentially the way it is with one track readjustment so you can gain access to all service needs.

Hard to describe, contact off list for suggestion.

Tom,
cell # on web site

Thanks to everyone for your comments. Here is a slight revision suggested by Tom Tee.

Mike

It seems what Mike's print is not able to show is the suggested rounding out of the squared off aisle space to form more of a bulb end of the aisle space up to almost the the track's edge for increased aisle space and improved access reach.

I know from working with some planning programs they do not make it ease to show curvedbenchwork.

My general encouragement to all planers is to think outside of the angular boxie shaped platform frequently seen.. It is a safe thing to say a very high percentage of all model RRs have round track in most of their squared or angular corners.

Where there is circular track only in the corners why waste the space when aisle access is usually at such a premium? Saves on bumps also!


Mike, that new switch added back by the three operating accessories. Reverse mount the switch machine so as to position it between the first and the second accessory so as to allow a nice even uninterupted rounded edge of the platform in that area.


Even using angular cut frame work, if you top it with a quality 3/4" decking you can reduce the extent of the benchwork in that area and trim the over hanging solid heavy duty 3/4" plywood to favorably follow the edge of the track maximizing on and off platform real estate.

By placing 4" glue blocks every 4" flush under the curved edge of the 3/4" plywood it provides a nice framework to mount 1/8" Masonite fascia which will bring the otherwise raw lumber area alive.

quote:

Originally posted by ezmike:
This is what I've come up with so far. The theme is toy train, post war operating accessories in conventional mode. The lower level is freight with the operating accessories. The upper level in blue is passenger service. The upper level will be about 10 - 12" above the lower. After seeing the PW display layout in the competing mag, I'm having second thoughts.

Comments and suggestions appreciated.

Mike

Mike I like the design especially in the reworked version. What size curves are you using; thank you and good luck.

Tom, I see what you mean with that switch motor.

daylight, the curves on the lower level are O31 except on the legs of the outer loop where they are O42. There might be a stray cut O54 or O72 somewhere to make a connection.

Mike

Here's the latest using some of Tom's ideas. As he pointed out earlier, I have not made the changes in the bench top showing the new curved, softer edges. I kept the double cross-over to be be able to continue to run two trains at the same time without relays and such since I run conventional.

Comments welcomed.

Mike

From upper left corner:

I.- 3 blocks down, 1 over. Very expensive short siding which could clash with the inside curve. Suggest to eliminate that and trade that LH switch for a RH switch and install it just before the coal ramp for a longer and safer siding. Increase the sidings there from two to three abreast.

II.- 3 blocks down and 3 over, there is potential crash site with the close curves. Suggest to slightly shorten up the log loader loop, maybe cut some track to get away from the rigid track planning program. They can be so stiffeling.

Plus as we discussed, when you round out that angular decking you will have a lot more reach and wiggle room. Nice nostalgic layout!

Tom,

Thanks for the comments. I saw that issue 3 down and 3 over and was going to play with things a little to increase the distance between the tracks.

That short siding, 3 down and 1 over is for the switcher to push 2 cars and the coal hopper up the ramp instead of backing a long consist up the ramp but bringing the issue to my attention has brought up another issue, there's no place to drop off the caboose, the additional siding would be a good place for that.

I plan on curving the left side and the "foot" of the right side but there's not much I can do with the right side that I can see.

Thanks for your comments. Will post an update asap.

Mike

Mike,

You might want to flip those milk platforms around so they are facing the front of the layout. I had them the same way you have in your plan and was not happy looking over the milk car to see it unloading.

Nice layout otherwise. I have an L shaped layout, but am going back to "the island" type. I miss having a town. Luckily I saved my old Atlas HO RR book and am scaling up one of their layouts.

Good luck!

Larry

Larry,

I noticed that after I saved the file and attached it. I intend to flip them around. I appreciate the comments though.

Recently I've been tempted to scrap this horseshoe shape and go with an island because I really dig the old Lionel display layouts. I could get about an 8' x 10'in that room which would accomodate quite a few of the old layouts.

Mike

Mike,

Don't mean to hijack your thread...

Here is link on Atlas' website to the HO RR I'm scaling up. Some of the former HO people here may know it as the "Simplicity and Great Plains" in some of the books from Atlas.

I'm modifying the layout to contain a hillside harbor town. The overall size is 6' x 11'. I will be using Ross for the switches and track for two reasons (1) most everyone raves about their switches (2) they have full scale PDF's of their switches and track which make it easier for me to plan with all of the accessories I'm going to be installing on the layout.

This will be my 5th O gauge layout (the last four never made it past wiring). I definitely recommend lots of planning and coming to terms with what you really want out of a layout. Took me a while, but it's been fun!

Larry

quote:

Originally posted by chipset:
I have found with that size room, an around the wall layout is best.

+1

An around-the-room will require either a duck-under or a lift bridge, no? If you have any suggestions using the posted plan I'm open to them.

Mike

Here's the latest. I added a drop off near the 456 Coal Ramp or I cold just leave the trailing cars on the main since no other trains will be running there anyway until I dump the coal.

What say you?

Mike

Mike, IMO, you nailed it.

Any additional re-dos could be over kill. Just start building it. You will will have some adjustments as you go along but do not be paralized by over analysis.

Some folks freeze & die in the track planning stage and never go on. Just do something even if it's slightly wrong. Nothing like the fun of actually running trains.

Now you can start posting construction photos

Thanks Tom.

I'll post photos as I go.

Mike

Mike, I've been following your thread with great interest. I can't open the the bmp file with your layout. Can you possibly post a jpeg?

Thanks,

Andy

Andy,

I'll do what I can when I get home but since my computer skills are limited is there someone out there who can tell me how to do it?

Mike

Andy,

I haven't figured out how to save it as a jpeg, if you or someone else knows how, please tell me.

I made one little change. I didn't like the back-to-back turnouts so I could drop off the caboose so I took it out and I'll foul the main by dropping it out on the mainline. It's to the left of the 456 Coal Ramp.

Mike

Mike,

I think if you right click the file and select save as, it will give you the option to save it as a jpeg. Hope this helps.

Andy

If you are using a PC you can open the .bmp file with paintbrush and "save as" a jpg in the file type.

My RRTrack hasn't come in yet, so I'm not sure if that's what your using.

Tom,

Thanks, yes, RRTrack is what I'm using. I'll try it later.

Mike