jhz563 posted:Steamer posted:pretty sure this is the brightest green Lionel used on the 816
That’s not bad - I will probably have to pay through the nose for one that’s not scratched up though. Mth did make a darker green and brass in the 2009 catalog. Looks like now I have two more wishlist items.
You can always make your own.
George
been looking for a beater 816 to do just that...but they are as much as a nice one.
just picked up this beauty for $5, so it can replace the Marx Pullman....after some shop time.
Ok, Dave, your gonna beat me, but I just caught the Dorfan crane on a buy it now....Got lucky I guess. Needs a little work, but the litho on the cab looks good.
Send me an email or text about the Royal Blue motor if you can.
great deal Dennis! That looks like the hopper I got last week, and I'd like to find a Dorfan caboose like that. I'll find a Derrick.
Added my second Forney piece to the menagerie. Custom Marx in the foreground shows how big they are.
Steve
Daddy!!!
Steamer posted:been looking for a beater 816 to do just that...but they are as much as a nice one.
Yes, and they are a bunch of work too! Not an easy repaint. You will also find parts missing that are not available.
it would be pretty though!
George
Parts from my project car have been used to restore my Lionel 1719. Rust has been removed and the roof repainted. The color is far from original, but I like it!
The trucks and wheels had a lot of rust. Nickel journals were heavily tarnished. Rust and tarnish are gone, but Evaporust removed the black from the frame. I think the satin black looks right and will protect the trucks.
George
George S,
That Lionel 1719 Box Car is sweet, one of the nicest I have seen in a long time! Congrats on a real fine restoration job!
PCRR/Dave
Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:Added my second Forney piece to the menagerie. Custom Marx in the foreground shows how big they are.
Steve
Nice Steve, Big difference in size
George S posted:Parts from my project car have been used to restore my Lionel 1719. Rust has been removed and the roof repainted. The color is far from original, but I like it!
The trucks and wheels had a lot of rust. Nickel journals were heavily tarnished. Rust and tarnish are gone, but Evaporust removed the black from the frame. I think the satin black looks right and will protect the trucks.
George
George it was worth the extra effort great car
Looks great George! I'm waiting to see the "project" 1719... Somehow I'm betting it will turn into a beer reefer 
Trainlover160 posted:George S posted:Parts from my project car have been used to restore my Lionel 1719. Rust has been removed and the roof repainted. The color is far from original, but I like it!
The trucks and wheels had a lot of rust. Nickel journals were heavily tarnished. Rust and tarnish are gone, but Evaporust removed the black from the frame. I think the satin black looks right and will protect the trucks.
George it was worth the extra effort great car
all hail,the rehab master !!
Dennis Holler posted:Looks great George! I'm waiting to see the "project" 1719... Somehow I'm betting it will turn into a beer reefer
It's funny, because I don't drink much beer. I'm more of a bourbon and wine guy, but beer has so much history and tradition and was linked integrally to the commerce of trains. Whatever, it's fun!
Here's a hint... "When you're out of 'it', you're out of beer." and it's the beer that made a not so famous town famous.
George
Unfortunately, I've been sidetracked with my Scalecraft steamers lately. Also missed out on several 814R and 2814R reefers....that and still waiting for some stuff to arrive from Austria (the Merkur cars).... Give me some inspiration!!!
I need it 
Looks awesome George! 
Hi everybody, as many of you know, I have a great fondness for French tinplate. Here is a JEP steamer from the 1930's on a Marklin turntable. Miketg
Steamer,
Dave the AF Caboose looks like a serious restoration project, go slow and enjoy.
MikeTG,
Now that is a sweet hunk of original JEP French Tin!
PCRR/Dave
Greg J. Turinetti posted:Great posts again this week folks. We are off to a great start.
My tinplate offering this week is an example of American Flyer's #3020 Large Boxcab.
This electric outline locomotive was available in the catalogs from 1922 through 1925 in a variety of colors. She is modeled after the New York Central's T-type locomotive.
(Photo borrowed from Google Images - New York Central locomotive, engine number 1213, engine type ALCO-GE C-C. Call Number OP-13531, from the Otto C. Perry Collection)
She was American Flyer's top of the line O gauge electric outline locomotive during those years - the Queen of the Fleet.
My example has had some rough use and shows wear, but the price was acceptable. I think she still looks pretty regal after more than 90 years.
<snip>
Have a Great Tinplate Weekend
Northwoods Flyer
Greg
For prototypical inspiration, this may be closer to what you are looking for (a T-3a). Neat loco! Enjoy.
Bob
OK, I forgot what car I was making and gave the wrong clue. The answer was Schlitz. However, Pabst owns Schlitz now after they acquired Stoh Brewing, which owned the brand.
The photo paper tore a little, because I used my homemade roof. The Lionel 1719 works well for this type of project. I think I can get better with practice.
George
Great job George I love it!!
Joe Gozzo
Nice job George. I need to get working on mine and finish it up! I'm guessing now you'll be hunting for a few more of those boxcars
BTW, what photo paper do you use?
Miketg posted:Hi everybody, as many of you know, I have a great fondness for French tinplate. Here is a JEP steamer from the 1930's on a Marklin turntable. Miketg
Nice steamer Mike. I too have fallen for the JEP bug in the last year or so.
Dennis Holler posted:BTW, what photo paper do you use?
I am using HP Photopaper Pro Semi-Gloss. I think the semi-gloss matches the Pre-war litho well. A gloss may be too shiny. I have an HP printer and have been using the highest quality setting.
George
Dennis Holler posted:Nice job George. I need to get working on mine and finish it up! I'm guessing now you'll be hunting for a few more of those boxcars
Come-on Dennis! I'm sure yours will beat mine!
I will keep an eye out for the clunkers. There are too many nice ones available
, and I hate to ruin those, at least while my projects are still a ways from being perfected.
George
I acquired this No. 1679 Baby Ruth litho box car with a bluish-green roof and tan doors. It’s possibly a Type V from 1936-38. I was reluctant to restore it to any great extent but the roof had quite a bit of missing paint. After searching various stores here in Australia, I found this paint spray can in the colour of Teal Bean. A quick test spray showed virtually a perfect colour match for the original Lionel bluish-green/teal.
It’s amazing how a shiny new paint job on the roof lifts the whole car.
that looks great!
O Gauge Guy,
Great Job!
PCRR/Dave
wish I had seen that sooner...woulda jumped on it.
Steamer posted:got the motor to my Flyer Royal Blue running. Not much speed, and gets hot to the touch,but keeps running.
anyone have any thoughts on this? ran a new wire from the pickup, the original had a bare spot that may have been touching the frame...but no change. My ohm meter crapped out, so I can't check anything. The wheels are turning freely, so there's no drag there.
any chance the brushes are too tight or too much spring pressure? Looks like you have it wired right. I just had a #2 KD motor that had the field and brush wires connected in parallel. It ran that way on AC but got hot quick. Once I changed the wiring so that the field and brushes were wired in series, it ran perfectly. Do you have a video of it running?
never had any luck with videos.
The armature moves about 1/8", so the brushes aren't tight. Thought maybe the armature moving was a problem, so I put a couple washers in, no change.Changed the wires around, and the motor changed direction.
Steamer posted:never had any luck with videos.
The armature moves about 1/8", so the brushes aren't tight. Thought maybe the armature moving was a problem, so I put a couple washers in, no change.Changed the wires around, and the motor changed direction.
How clean is it? Have you sprayed it down with CRC contact cleaner? I find that old oil and grease will clog a motor and make it run poorly. How many volts is it taking? If it's getting hot at 14 volts, that's probably a field short. If it's drawing 18 volts to run consistently and getting hot, that's a mechanical problem; something is binding or there's a short to the frame in the wiring.
George
It's flyer so the transformers only went to 12 volts, such as the 9B or 12B. They'll run at 18 volts, but you'll smoke em eventually.
Dennis Holler posted:It's flyer so the transformers only went to 12 volts, such as the 9B or 12B. They'll run at 18 volts, but you'll smoke em eventually.
Right. It's the semi-scale stuff. I forgot. My Flyer is the older stuff. I'd double check the gears then. How does the drive work from the rear? Is that a worm drive?
George
It starts at 14volts....nothing binding.
Lemme compare to one of mine after work if I can find a clear stretch of track....
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