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I have been looking for the solution to this one and had no luck so far. I have two old trains that I can't/don't want to upgrade to DCC or some other remote operation system. I do want a lay out that is simple for my kids (or wife) to operate without smashing the trains into each other so I plan to use one transformer for throttle on both trains and a second power supply for my switches and lighting and such.

Fastra5

This is the layout I want to use with Fastrack. I want to use relays (Cause I am cheap) to switch a block on and off  just to the right of the switches So that if there is a train already crossing from one loop to the other they don't crash and so that the trains stay reasonably spaced from each other. I know that I am asking for an old school solution but I am running old trains so I guess it fits. I am sure someone has already figured this out but I can't find it. Also the ability to lock one train on the inner loop and one on the outer loop for when I want to play would be a bonus!

 

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

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What I would like to have is two trains running clockwise around the tracks. One on the inner loop and one on the outer loop. Whichever train gets back to the switches first stops and waits until the other train clears the switches. At this point there are two trains on the same loop. Once the switches are clear the waiting train should start moving and go to the other loop so that there are two trains on two loops again. I intend to put resisters inline so the inner loop runs more slowly than the outer loop. I would also like to be able to run the setup where neither train switches loops and they both just run in two big circles.

Originally Posted by Dale H:

I would have to think about it a bit. What kind of switches and track?

 

Dale H

Dale mentally take the double crossover out and put in a 45 crossing.

 

Burns had a current sensing relay to accomplish this. need 2 relays. Depotronics made a circuit for this also. Not sure if these companies are still i business. Some where I have directions.

 

Wiring the non-derailing feature of the switches will take care of throwing them correctly.

Dale this book has a very similar layout that covers everything but the switch operation I think. It may even cover that but I have not dug far enough into it to be sure. I am still in the process of buying fastrack for the layout so there is no rush. Right now I have all the track for the inner loop and no switches.
 
Originally Posted by Moonman:

Block detection circuits with relays are not that cheap. Insulated blocks are. Use the 1 3/8" FasTrack pieces on either end of the detection block. You may need to relocate your switches.

Check out page 39 of this "old school" Lionel operating manual. (attached in .pdf)

 

Originally Posted by Moonman:

Block detection circuits with relays are not that cheap. Insulated blocks are. Use the 1 3/8" FasTrack pieces on either end of the detection block. You may need to relocate your switches.

Check out page 39 of this "old school" Lionel operating manual. (attached in .pdf)


I came across this post and am not able to open the pdf.  Any chance you could re-post it or email it to me? 

 

Thanks in advance!

I see 3 scenarios.

 

1st scenario 2 trains go around each loop and never go through the open switches.

2nd  scenario 1 train goes around both loops in either direction.

3rd scenario 2 trains go around both loops in 1 or 2 directions.

 

To accomplish 1. Just run your trains through the straight of the switches.

To accomplish 2. Wire the derailers of the inner loop switches so straight throws curved on the opposite inner switch. This will make the curved through straight on the opposite switch. This will make the train run as if there is a 45 degree crossing instead of 4 switches. Switches on the outer loop are set to curved.

To accomplish 3. Create 4 stop blocks around the 4 switches and wire the stop blocks the same as a 90 degree crossing would be wired for 2 trains. This can be accomplished with 2 relays. I have notes somewhere how to do this. The switches are powered all the time from track power from either of the loops. Signals can be added from the relays.

 

a couple of notes: with 2 trains or 1 train running in a figure 8 the outer switches are set to curved via the remote toggle. When desired to runs on the inner and outer with no crossing install a switch to power down the relays and eliminate the stop blocks. Or power both sides of the stop block circuit. I would also wire the inner switch derailers to throw straight to straight. I took a double pole double throw toggle switch center off and made 1 side throw everything straight to straight and the other side curved to straight. center off disconnects all tie togethers.

This is my Standard Gauge layout which works the same way. The double crossover is the 4 switches at the top. What i do is stop a train on the inner loop over the 280 bridge and the inner loop switches. I use command control but a stop block would be fine. On the outer loop i set the derailer to throw curved to straight. On the inner loop straight to curved.

 

The train follows a path from the 440 signal bridge over the first outer loop switch which throws the 2nd outer loop switch curved and then proceeds over the 300 bridge and onto the inner loop because the 2nd switch was thrown curved. The inner loop switches are both thrown straight. Follow the train around the inner loop and back onto the outer loop and over the 300 bridge. Now the 2nd switch on the outer loop is straight and the train proceeds around the outer loop until it the 1st outer switch straight which curves the 2nd outer switch. The cycle repeats over and over. Another option is to run a train around the whole inner loop and the 300 bridge section by reversing both non derailers.MYLAYOUT

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