I am wiring the the throws to the switches and ran into a problem with the center switch next to the cross section it will not throw into the yard the current is forcing it to stay straight but if I take the wire off the center peg it allows me to turn it by hand. what do you think going on all other switches work.
Replies sorted oldest to newest
BDJ,
Well you broke one of the golden runs of building with Conventional tubular, never run a switch directly off a cross over of any kind. Put a short track between your switch and your cross over and it will cure your problem.
PCRR/Dave
The answer involves not having an insulating pin in one of the correct places. It's up to you to test with a voltmeter to determine which pin is needed, and where. Search the archives for "non-derailing".
BDJ,
Well you broke one of the golden runs of building with Conventional tubular, never run a switch directly off a cross over of any kind. Put a short track between your switch and your cross over and it will cure your problem.
PCRR/Dave
Sorry, I'm not seeing this. In the photo provided by bigdogjeff1, he shows the entrance end of an O22 (i.e., the only entry without the insulated track pins) attached to his crossover. Why would this be a problem? Why would adding a short piece of track between the crossover and the O22 make any difference?
What am I missing?
Steven J. Serenska
Bigdogjeff1:
I'm inclined to agree with Arthur P. Bloom: I think you've got an insulated rail that's missing a fibre pin.
Pull the first freightyard switch off the end of the one connected to the crossover. There should be a fiber pin in the left outside rail (i.e., the long curved one). If there isn't one, that's the problem. If there is one, pull the sheet metal bottom off the switch and look for a short.
I'm assuming, by the subject line, that these are O22 switches. Your comment DCS and MTH sending the unit back doesn't seem to match up with the rest of your description.
Please let us know.
SJS
Serenska,
After many years on building layouts my father had about 6 rules he followed when building and placing a switch up against a cross over of any kind is just asking for problems, it's like the 12 track rule for DCS, you violate it but at your own peril, sooner or later you have problems. He may also have some pins in the wrong places or something touching however I still advise him to insert the short track between the switch and the cross over.
PCRR/Dave
Ok I got it to work but don't know what it had to do with it the switch next in line I didn't wire completely up yet and as soon as I did it freed up and now works.
Serenska,
After many years on building layouts my father had about 6 rules he followed when building and placing a switch up against a cross over of any kind is just asking for problems, it's like the 12 track rule for DCS, you violate it but at your own peril, sooner or later you have problems. He may also have some pins in the wrong places or something touching however I still advise him to insert the short track between the switch and the cross over.
PCRR/Dave
This doesn't answer the question: Why would this be a problem? Why is this a golden rule? Why would adding a short piece of track between the crossover and the non-derailing end of the O22 make any difference in solving short in the O22?
This is an example of how a simple question can elicit a deluge of dis- and mis-information.
This whole thread needs to be deleted and the OP needs to restart the process, hopefully using a logical question and answer method. I agree that the comment about DCS and MTH are red herrings.
The electrical answer, one which does not involve old wives' tales about extra track and other extraneous comments, is that a track return is somehow activating a non-derail feature. It's simple: An insulating pin has not been inserted where it needs to be.
All other information in the thread is just confusing the issue.
A voltmeter/ohmeter and a logical understanding of the track plan are all that are needed here.
So, what did you find while testing, and what did you do to fix the problem? Other guys may encounter the same or similar symptoms, and could use your guidance.
That might be a geometric/operational faux pas, but it won't make a lick of difference with the electrical problem.
Gentlemen,
Your switches can move slightly as you use them and touch the crossing making a short, with the short piece of track screwed down between the cross over and the switch, the switch most times moves very little, hence no short. You can call it an old wives tail if you like, it works all the time, every time, when you do not place the switch directly against the cross overs. Please continue to build in the manner you desire, I know what actually works for me, thru experience. No misinformation given.
PCRR/Dave
You're gonna' hafta' draw a picture for that one.
I had wired the switches all up on the switch end and not to the throw so when I Hooked up the one on the wall side to the throw that's when I noticed the problem on the switch next to the crossing but when I hooked the throw to that switch problem moved to corner switch then hooked up throw to that switch problem disappeared . So I guess that it.
Hmmm.
Access to this requires an OGR Forum Supporting Membership
