@TedW posted:

Tom, here are a few “dimmers”(actually voltage adjustment) that I and a large number of OGR members use.  You may already have some laying around.  I use either xfrmr ACV acc power or a dedicated 30 amp DC power supply for all my led lighting.  The buck converters are readily available in a variety of configurations from the Bay, Amazon or distributor of your choice.

Proper LED dimmers do not adjust voltages. LEDs are current-driven devices, not voltage driven. Their brightness is determined by the amount of current going through them. Changing the voltage (e.g. using a buck-converter) will sorta kinda change the brightness, but this is because when you change the voltage, the current changes as well, but the relationship is non-linear and there is an absolute voltage below which the LED will not work.

There are several ways around this, but the most common one is to use pulse-width modulation (PWM) to turn the LEDs on and off at a rate too high to see. The voltage is always the same and the current is determined by the duty cycle of a square wave.

The first of the two pictures you show is in fact a PWM controller, not a voltage controller. Those little buck-converters in the second picture have many useful applications, but dimming LEDs isn't one of them. PWM controllers are cheap, readily available, and will support the linear control of brightness across a very wide range.

I use these for train speed control:

HiLetgo 12V~40V 10A PWM DC Motor Speed Control Switch Controller Voltage Regulator Dimmer for Arduino

4.5 out of 5 stars 235

$6.99$6.99

And these for LED dimming:

Hiletgo 3pcs DC12-24V 8Amp 0%-100% PWM Dimming Controller for LED Lights, Ribbon Lights,Tape Lights,Dimmer is compatible with Hilight, LEDwholesaler, fillite, and others' strips

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

@shorling posted:

I use the D56 cords with 12 VDC candelabra based LED bulbs I purchased very cheaply from China.  I installed 16 socket power strips under the table connected to a 12 VDC supply.  You have to keep your polarity correct.  I drilled a hole in the table and passed the plug/cord under the table and plugged it in.  D56 buildings with cords out the bottom of the building were easy and the cord doesn't show.  Buildings with cords out the back require a little camouflage.   i have a ton of D56 buildings on an elevated section where I still used the D56 cords.  I cut the cords and fastened under the elevated platform.  I used barrier strips to connect the cords together and had a single 12 VDC pair passing under the table.  Bulbs are similar to Avanti only screw base E12.

Thanks Steve, but the whole idea is to get rid of the D56 cords.  I find them just too bulky.

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

@Tom Stoltz posted:

Thanks Steve, but the whole idea is to get rid of the D56 cords.  I find them just too bulky.

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

Hi Tom,  yes I realize that you consider the cords bulky.   They are more bulky than others.  However, D56 places the bulbs via their socket mounts to provide even illumination in their products using their bulbs.   I'm using LED's since I can't re-lamp my buildings.  But by using the D56 sockets, I have my LED bulbs positioned in accordance with the D56 design.

Try this, cords are thin and flexible. The system operates on 12 volts and has extra cords for accessories, also the plugs are small and round so you can drill a small hole to drop through the plywood.   Department 56 lighting system,  I have been using them for years.   They are available on eBay.  

@shorling posted:

Hi Tom,  yes I realize that you consider the cords bulky.   They are more bulky than others.  However, D56 places the bulbs via their socket mounts to provide even illumination in their products using their bulbs.   I'm using LED's since I can't re-lamp my buildings.  But by using the D56 sockets, I have my LED bulbs positioned in accordance with the D56 design.

Steve, do your 12V LEDs light the D56 buildings with the same 'glow' as the original C7s?  Sounds like it might be something to consider.  I would be rewiring with lighter gauge wire but otherwise it could be a go.  Like I said to Ted, it's the 'glow' I'm concerned about and based on earlier LED performance, I had dismissed them.

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

Saw this on the S-scale.io site:

AirBrite lighting system  (for Dept 56 Buildings)

Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2021 12:46:30 PDT

Friends! Our friend, Michelle K at the Colorado Model RR Museum recently posted a product review of the AirBrite Universal Wireless  Lighting System. IT IS WAAAAY COOL!

https://youtu.be/AhSzqQUQJ10

https://www.airbritelighting.com/

Worth a look if you don't like running wires to light you buildings.

Tom Stoltz

in Maine