Amtrak Dash-9 Won't Move - Fixed

Since it's responding to couplers and sound and smoke, it's not stuck in program mode, or at least I can't imagine how it is.  Have you reprogrammed it to a new ID?  I didn't see any reset code in the manual, it's my understanding that the newer Legacy stuff no longer has specific reset codes like the early ones and the TMCC stuff.

I think the first step would indeed be to check all the boards and connectors for seating.  I'd also "reseat" connectors and boards to make sure you have a good connection.  Checking for pinched wires while you're in there is a good idea as well.

I don’t think this matters but I should point out my Legacy controller was dead when I first tried to test this engine.  So I used my Cab-1 remote and assigned the engine as 19.  I then was able to load the locomotive data onto the #19 spot using the provided module on the Legacy controller.  I don’t see how that would have any impact on conventional mode.  It will not move with either controller.

Even this newer Legacy still has the familiar reset scheme:

• Slide switch to PGM then power up.
• Press ENG -> ID -> SET
• Press ENG -> ID -> AUX1 -> 2
• Turn power off then switch to RUN.

So……go ahead and dive in??

so you are saying that you removed all command bases and it would not move in conventional?  because if any command bases are hooked up it will still try to talk to them.

if above is was done then motor is unhooked or dead.  I had another dash-9 that the motor was disconnected out of the box.

The base units were both off when I tried the conventional.   I will pull the cab and look around.  It all seems to work except for the motor piece and Bigdodge had a similar experience. 

Thanks John and BigDogde.  I will post any results.

I checked the manual for that locomotive, I missed the reset code the first time, indeed it is there.

I'm still of the opinion that seating of all the boards and connectors is warranted, as things do come loose in shipping.  Pinched wires is another old favorite.  I really do think that's your next step, I can't imagine you're going to get it running without looking inside at this point.

Well we got it moving.....

I took the cab off then placed  it on the track.  It went 6 inches one way, I reversed it and went 6 inches the other way.  Then it stopped again.

Next I reseated all the boards, wiggled connectors and powered it up.  It went a couple inches then stopped.

Next I wiggled and jiggled everything but no luck, still stuck.

With it powered, I grabbed the edges of the mother board and twisted and the thing took off.  I have now completed a few loops around the layout.

Good news is the locomotive is moving.  Down side is I really don't think it is fixed, only temporarily happy.  These tend to wait until you put the last screw back in the cab before they act up again.

Any suggestions on what to really pinpoint and fix?

Your locomotive is first run Legacy with the motherboard and modular plug in boards.  After reseating boards like the guys said, you usually get lucky.  Always pull the Leoco (white) plugs from the motor driver board and reseat them.  On one end of the driver board is a 6 position Molex (black) plug that should be pulled and reseated.

On the Aux code for early Legacy use number 1 for steam and number 2 for diesel.  Newed Legacy boards with the RCMC board does not need a reboot code.  Sounds like you followed what everyone said well. 

Let us know if it dies again and you will get directed to the Odyssey motor encoder board to see if it is getting 5VDC from the motor driver board.

The motor driver board on this unit sits in the very rear.  So I will check those pins and reseat the Leoco plugs.  I see the black Molex and can trace wires from it (blue and yellow) to each motor.  I will pull that connector and reseat it too.  I will check for anything that may be trying to ground out the motherboard.  

Report back tonight.  

This forum is so good.   A person asks for help and everyone is will to share.  Thanks.

I'd also take a close look at each wire going to the motor driver board.  Could be a bad crimp on one of the contacts. 

Also, I had one connector that was flaky and it turned out that one of the connector contacts was deformed so it didn't grip the pin, it was simply touching the pin.  After it ran a spell, it would randomly disconnect.  Took a while to track that one down.

Most of the problems are those crappy Leoco plugs.

Exactly Marty!  And, to add insult to injury, you can only buy them in large quantities from the factory, none of the distributors carry them!  Where do you buy them?

I got the ones I have in the Lionel parts kit.  Let me know if you need any.  I save all the wiring from Lionel engines that people have me upgrade to DCS.  I figure someday someone might need a part and if I have it, they have it.

I have lots of the small 2,3,4 contact ones.  What I need are the larger ones at times.  I do save any connectors I get for any reason, as you say, you never know.

Well she decided to stall on me today.  It would stop and go kind of on it's own.    Wiggling the connector on the driver board appears to get response.  If I had to bet, it's the 3 wire connector (yellow/blue/green) and labeled on board connector as (In/Gnd/+5V).  Would this explain the symptoms?

With it stalled and everything connected, I was able to measure 5 VDC across the blue and green crimps by pinning right from the top of the connector.  However, I am not sure it was getting carried over to the board.  Then with everything still connected, I used a pic and pushed the green wire's crimp towards the board from behind and that may have done it.  Is there any technique for "tightening" up those female crimps inside that connnector for a better fit?

Best plan here is to find a good pin on a chunk of wire, remove the bad pin and splice the wire to the one with the good pin.  It's pretty hard to "fix" those properly, though I've certainly tried a few times.

Note that I'm assuming you don't have the tool or the parts to do this "properly" as in crimping a new pin on the wire.  I save any existing wires with the pins already crimped for stuff like this.

I was hoping that while it is stalled, we can use a meter to check different pins and connectors on the driver and encoder boards to find where the open is.  Then we will locate the cold joint, bad connector or wire.  Can any one guide me through some checks while it's stalled.?

The usual reason is to bolt them to the chassis as a heatsink.  I'm not seeing the component you mention.  It probably is a voltage regulator, not a triac.

It certainly would affect operation if it isn't properly connected!

Well just so we know what it is, here is the replacement part from the Lionel website.  It's a 3 legged doodad with some heat shrink on the center pole to prevent shorting.  

Well, that's the motor driver board, so it would sure account for things not moving!

I don't see anything that's extended on wires.

As Bill stated the Black connector, and some times the wire break inside the insulation where the connector is crimped on.  G

I see it now, I wasn't sure what component you were talking about.  I'm guessing that is not the issue.  As previously suggested, a very close physical inspection is always a good first step.

Well I am declaring victory finally.  The molex checked out ok.  The problem sure seemed to be the triac mounted on a Leaco connector on the motor driver board.  I finally got that in a sweet spot as far as I can tell.

Thanks for all the suggestions and advice everyone.   

Nice.  Bill What is the TRIAC suppose to do?  G

Hard to imagine if wiggling that around fixed it that it's a permanent fix.  Time will tell...

You can read the ID off it and check electronic parts places.  G

Did not know it was a race;-) :-)  G

Neither did I, that's why you finished ahead.