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My recent Bing finds,  just arrived today.

 

The 2 on the left I bought previously, metal litho with rivets. The 3 on the right are newBing 4 NYC 1 PRR

New New York Central Lines 253 Coach, this one has the wood style litho. BW Germany underneath

Bing New 253 Wood Panel

New York Central Lines 501 Baggage/Mail Car(Orange lettering?). "Bing Miniature Railroad System" on top of both ends. Embossed logo is a "GBN" diamond and "Bavaria"  underneath the diamond

Bing New 501 US Mail

New York Central Lines 259. Came with wheels unlike the other 2 new guys. "Bing Miniature Railroad System" on top of Observation End. Embossed logo underneath is "GBN" diamond with "Bavaria" below the diamond

Bing New 253 NYC Obs Wood Panel

501 Baggage car Litho detail "The bing Miniature Railroad System" at the top

Bing 501 Litho End Bing Miniature Railroad System

Bottom of the NYC Lines 259 Observation car

Bing NYC 259 TM GBN Bavaria

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  • Bing 4 NYC 1 PRR
  • Bing 501 Litho End Bing Miniature Railroad System
  • Bing New 253 NYC Obs Wood Panel
  • Bing New 253 Wood Panel
  • Bing New 501 US Mail
  • Bing NYC 259 TM GBN Bavaria
John Smatlak posted:

A question about Flyer brushes- when I got this locomotive it didn't run. Applying a little pressure on one of the brushes got things to start turning, so I took off the wires and removed the tiny little outer cap (that rests in the end of the spring) and then the spring inside each brush tube. I then turned the engine on its side and gave it a few taps expecting some carbon brushes (or remains thereof) to fall out. Nothing came out. I tried a little lifting from the commutator side using a flat rule, but nothing comes out. So I re-tensioned the one spring that was obviously weak, put it back together and it started running fine. Since it started running I didn't want to explore further and take off the brush plate. Question- what's in those brush tubes? A conventional carbon brush? a brass one?

Thanks!

 

Conventional carbon/copper brush... sometimes they get stuck with all the grunge in the tube, a good cleaning will solve that.

Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:
StevefromPA posted:

And, can't forget, picked up this Marx Girard station. Whistle doesn't work but price was right and it was in good shape. Like the look much better than my previous station I had here

Marx Girard Station 5:20

Does the whistle even try to turn? If so maybe just some oil.

Steve

 

@Steve “Papa” Eastman unfortunarely I bought it w/o the whistle and there are no binding posts to boot. The condition is really good, and like I said price was nice too, but I’m kind of kicking myself for not shelling out a little more because the whistle would be cool. Might try to sell this one to a few people I know locally and then buy one with a whistle OR buy one on the cheap that’s not in good shape with a whistle that works. Thanks for the help and advice though, much appreciated my friend.

StevefromPA posted:
 
 

@Steve “Papa” Eastman unfortunarely I bought it w/o the whistle and there are no binding posts to boot. The condition is really good, and like I said price was nice too, but I’m kind of kicking myself for not shelling out a little more because the whistle would be cool. Might try to sell this one to a few people I know locally and then buy one with a whistle OR buy one on the cheap that’s not in good shape with a whistle that works. Thanks for the help and advice though, much appreciated my friend.

It will be a good space filler until you find one with a whistle. Now to find the nicer looking Oak Park station.

Steve

Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:
StevefromPA posted:
 
 

@Steve “Papa” Eastman unfortunarely I bought it w/o the whistle and there are no binding posts to boot. The condition is really good, and like I said price was nice too, but I’m kind of kicking myself for not shelling out a little more because the whistle would be cool. Might try to sell this one to a few people I know locally and then buy one with a whistle OR buy one on the cheap that’s not in good shape with a whistle that works. Thanks for the help and advice though, much appreciated my friend.

It will be a good space filler until you find one with a whistle. Now to find the nicer looking Oak Park station.

Steve

The Oak Park Station is certainly an eye catcher, and I also just like the name a lot more- feels like "Oak Park" could fit just about anywhere whereas to the unknowing "Girard" just doesn't fit as well. Sorry for being over analytical, just finished a long day of work and my brain is still in that analytical mode.

That said, I'd love to get a Marx Grand Central. Obviously different than Girard, Oak Park & the larger Glendale station- but that one is just really neat.

That said, I'm expecting 2 smaller prewar tin litho stations/depots coming in the mail by Saturday. One is the Flyer Town depot that says in a litho'd crate on the front " from American Flyer Mfg. Co. Chicago Ill." the other is a Hafner Glen Ellyn Station. Both were on the cheap and in decent condition so I'll be adding some Illinois flavor to my layout.

Lionel2056 posted:

This arrived in the mail today. It is an American Flyer 3115, with holes punched on both sides. Would anyone know when American Flyer started punching these holes in the sides of the 3115?

IMG_0034

I think the oval holes in the sides were done sometime after 1928 (as I have some engines without the oval holes), but don't know the exact date.  The hole is for oiling the armature axis / gears.

Rob English posted:
John Smatlak posted:

A question about Flyer brushes- when I got this locomotive it didn't run. Applying a little pressure on one of the brushes got things to start turning, so I took off the wires and removed the tiny little outer cap (that rests in the end of the spring) and then the spring inside each brush tube. I then turned the engine on its side and gave it a few taps expecting some carbon brushes (or remains thereof) to fall out. Nothing came out. I tried a little lifting from the commutator side using a flat rule, but nothing comes out. So I re-tensioned the one spring that was obviously weak, put it back together and it started running fine. Since it started running I didn't want to explore further and take off the brush plate. Question- what's in those brush tubes? A conventional carbon brush? a brass one?

Thanks!

 

Conventional carbon/copper brush... sometimes they get stuck with all the grunge in the tube, a good cleaning will solve that.

Thanks-  it's what I had assumed but I appreciate the confirmation. I've encountered many a stuck brush, if it stops running I'll go in there and flush it out or pull out the brush plate as required. Thanks again.

Picked these up over the last week:

Flyer Town Depot & Hafner Glen Ellyn Station. Feel like the bases have been modified but they look nice on the layout. For the price, it was right and they look nice:

Flyer Town Depot off the spur

Flyer Town Depot on Layout

Hafner Glen Ellyn & Flyer Town Depot(rear view)

Flyer Twon Depot & Hafner Glen Ellyn

Glen Ellyn on the layout, upgrade over my previous structure.

Hafner Glen Ellyn on layot

Side view of the Hafner Glen Ellyn Station

Hafner Glen Ellyn

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  • Flyer Town Depot on Layout
  • Flyer Twon Depot & Hafner Glen Ellyn
  • Hafner Glen Ellyn on layot
  • Hafner Glen Ellyn

Picked these 3 up about a week ago, just arrived today. My first 8 wheel Bing, a Bing crossing in need or "some" cleaning up(suggestions appreciated!), and an older Ives 51 Pennsylvania Lines Newark- just liked the way it looked:

 

Bing American Mkt 425 Express Service Baggage NYC Lines 8 wheelBing NYC Lines 425 8 wheel

Embossed logo on bottom of 425 baggage

Bottom Bing 425

Roof of Bing 425- something tells me its not the original. Compared it to the top of my 4 wheel Bings(American & German Market), Marklin, Ives, Lionel and Flyer prewar- none have, I'm sorry I can't remember the word(I think it's vents?), but "bumps" that big

Top Bing 425

Bing Level Crossing, paint is flaking but I liked it and that's what counts

Bing Level Crossing

Finally this little Ives Pennsylvania Lines No 51 Newark. Came w/o roof but it's a neat little car. Couplers riveted in. Everything matches up well. Don't know if I'll be running it much but being from PA and considering it's age, happy to add this guy

Ives 51 Penn Lines Newark

 

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  • Bing NYC Lines 425 8 wheel
  • Bottom Bing 425
  • Bing Level Crossing
  • Ives 51 Penn Lines Newark
  • Top Bing 425
StevefromPA posted:

Picked these 3 up about a week ago, just arrived today. My first 8 wheel Bing, a Bing crossing in need or "some" cleaning up(suggestions appreciated!), and an older Ives 51 Pennsylvania Lines Newark- just liked the way it looked:

 

Bing American Mkt 425 Express Service Baggage NYC Lines 8 wheelBing NYC Lines 425 8 wheel

Embossed logo on bottom of 425 baggage

Bottom Bing 425

 

 

 

I couldn't make out the wording on the Bing baggage car...Made in ???

Nice purchases. I like the Glen Ellyn station, too. 

Tom 

Thanks, Dennis! It's 2 rail so I'm trying to find a way to integrate it into a 3 rail layout, although I'd like to give clock-work a try and I'll have time with my summer break about to hit. Open to any suggestions! Tried running modern locos(distance between contact rollers) and they went over it but there was a bit of a bump as it rises up in the middle. 

Finally, picture of current tinplate consist. Don't judge the kayout to harshly, work has caused a bit of clutter

Tinplate consist 5 28

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Another telltale.

A few weeks ago I was inspired by another forum member making a telltale from a broken street light, so I made one. ( by the way I've changed that hideous finial).

DSCN6327

I needed/ wanted more than one and since broken street likes aren't that easy to come by I looked for other items to make more from. Below is what I found.

DSCN6395DSCN6396

This one is made using the metal base from a Marx searchlight ( that I cannibalized for another project) A square dowel ( 12 inch) , a wooden craft stick, A piece of brass rod, some craft chain and split rings and a small brass finial from Home Depot. The parts used are shown below.

DSCN6398DSCN6399

This took almost no time to build, the longest thing was waiting for the paint to dry. While it is not as authentic as the first one it does look good and is easy to duplicate.  Now I'll have to think of a use for the girder part of the cannibalized Marx searchlight tower that is left especially since I'll soon have a few more in my junk box.

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  • DSCN6395
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  • DSCN6399
StevefromPA posted:

Thanks, Dennis! It's 2 rail so I'm trying to find a way to integrate it into a 3 rail layout, although I'd like to give clock-work a try and I'll have time with my summer break about to hit. Open to any suggestions! Tried running modern locos(distance between contact rollers) and they went over it but there was a bit of a bump as it rises up in the middle. 

Finally, picture of current tinplate consist. Don't judge the kayout to harshly, work has caused a bit of clutter

Tinplate consist 5 28

Not aure this will work but maybe try using a section of piano wire the same diameter as a track pin and install that between the adjacent three rail sections with some tape under the wire so it does not short out.

@Dennis Holler hmm sounds interesting- worth a shot. Suggestion much appreciated- when I get some piano wire I'll let you know how it goes. The rise in the middle is rather high but it's possible that the underside of the engine I was using was hitting that portion because it was going from a realtrax tubular adapter directly to the crossing whereas if it was tubular and then the crossing the transition would've been smoother. My Williams GP-9 didn't make it because of contact roller placement but my RMT buddys did. Again, thanks!

Philipp posted:

0530191731I painted this Tootsietoy kerosene truck. Next time I'll use primer. I think the color might have come out more even had I bothered to try to find where I left it. Never painted a die cast car before. It's probably small for O scale, but doesn't seem too out of place next to my Marx train.

Now take a picture of shell on side of tank car and using decal paper make decals for the truck with your computer and inkjet printer 

Philipp posted:

0530191731I painted this Tootsietoy kerosene truck. Next time I'll use primer. I think the color might have come out more even had I bothered to try to find where I left it. Never painted a die cast car before. It's probably small for O scale, but doesn't seem too out of place next to my Marx train.

Nice!  I have been buying the 5.5 to 6 inch Tootsietoy cars lately and they are a bit larger and seem to go better with the O gauge trains.

I am planning on painting several of the Tootsietoy items this summer, as I am primarily buying junkers or already repainted inexpensive items.  

NWL

Nation Wide Lines posted:
Philipp posted:

0530191731I painted this Tootsietoy kerosene truck. Next time I'll use primer. I think the color might have come out more even had I bothered to try to find where I left it. Never painted a die cast car before. It's probably small for O scale, but doesn't seem too out of place next to my Marx train.

Nice!  I have been buying the 5.5 to 6 inch Tootsietoy cars lately and they are a bit larger and seem to go better with the O gauge trains.

I am planning on painting several of the Tootsietoy items this summer, as I am primarily buying junkers or already repainted inexpensive items.  

NWL

I’d be interested to see how they look with your trains. I just stripped a 5.5in 55 Packard Tootsietoy that might look good with O scale. Junkers and repaints are also my choice.

Philipp posted:
Nation Wide Lines posted:
Philipp posted:

0530191731I painted this Tootsietoy kerosene truck. Next time I'll use primer. I think the color might have come out more even had I bothered to try to find where I left it. Never painted a die cast car before. It's probably small for O scale, but doesn't seem too out of place next to my Marx train.

Nice!  I have been buying the 5.5 to 6 inch Tootsietoy cars lately and they are a bit larger and seem to go better with the O gauge trains.

I am planning on painting several of the Tootsietoy items this summer, as I am primarily buying junkers or already repainted inexpensive items.  

NWL

I’d be interested to see how they look with your trains. I just stripped a 5.5in 55 Packard Tootsietoy that might look good with O scale. Junkers and repaints are also my choice.

Here are some of the cars and trucks that I have bought so far.  Just kind of grouped in one area.

Some of the Tootsietoy repaints 3 Jaguars, 2 Mercedes, Austin-Healy, and MG

Tootsietoy Caddy and Hubley Rambler wagon.

Couple of Oldsmobile convertibles and Ford Wagon

Some of the items needing repainting in the front row from right to left, Tootsietoy Lincoln Capri, Porsche Spyder, Buick Wagon.  In the back row from left to right a Hubley Lincoln Continental, Hubley Ranchero, and Tootsietoy Ford Wagon.

They look relatively good and should be easy to paint.  Can also have multiple items, just paint them differing colors.  

NWL

Dennis, I know this may sound like sacrilege but have you ever considered restoring one of those engines to running condition and replacing the brass and copper with either new parts or polishing the original but leaving all of the rust and  discoloration on the drive rods, wheels, chassis, and superstructure alone?  If you did, you could claim your stable of locomotives has a true-to-prototype weathered engine only instead of you having to take the time to do the weathering you let father time do it for you. 

Dennis Holler posted:

F3F43153-743C-4CFA-B82E-FE26ABFC0051Got this 255E project in the mail the other day. Now waiting its turn. Nice straight frame worth the price of admission.

 

Looks like the start of some fun. Interesting cross shaped fastener holding the drive rod to the rear drive wheel - what is that called? And what tool is needed to tighten/loosen without damage?

George

Robert S. Butler posted:

Dennis, I know this may sound like sacrilege but have you ever considered restoring one of those engines to running condition and replacing the brass and copper with either new parts or polishing the original but leaving all of the rust and  discoloration on the drive rods, wheels, chassis, and superstructure alone?  If you did, you could claim your stable of locomotives has a true-to-prototype weathered engine only instead of you having to take the time to do the weathering you let father time do it for you. 

It is very tempting to say the least!

Steamer posted:

I like that. How did you mount the coupler? My 262 still needs a pilot.

The coupler isn’t mounted yet.  The new apron on the front took a few hours to knock out as I am really tooled for wood work, not metal.  The top portion is really long, it actually goes through the opening in the steam chest.  I am trying to duplicate the dual swivel set up 2800 series freight cars.  I think I have enough rivets to do the job.  I will need to drill a partial hole in the underside of the pilot deck of the engine to accept the tang on the coupler.  I am need to make a pivot link from the rear hole to the hole on the coupler.  This needs to be a little thicker than the material I made the new pilot out of.  I try to cut up a ss outlet cover I had laying around, but my drill bit kept walking sideways.  I have some more work to do for sure

2F3C51F8-C18C-4D27-9B9E-FEC483D7D994

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Steamer posted:

I like that. How did you mount the coupler? My 262 still needs a pilot.

FYI, I don’t have a 262e, but I do have a 261e, which I believe is very similar.  The 261e pilot is cast as part of the frame and I suspect the 262e is the same.  On a 260e, or 263e like mine, the pilot is a separate piece held on with two screws.  On a 261 or 262 a different approach would be needed.

  I'd try to mount as close to wheels as you can.

  Your geometry differs, but adding a coupler to a Generals body, it would get pulled off the rails in curves double heading or pushed itself off pushing a heavy car.  Mounting to the pilot truck stopped it. All the lateral forces go to those pilot wheel flanges now.

Like I said totally different geometry, a Gen. has close set drivers at the rear so the nose becomes a long lever, but you might want to rig things for a test before total commitment & holes.

I still cant push well because the coupler is long and swings to the side very easily, binding at couplers (claw) and derailing the cars truck at times.  But double heading was what I was after, so..."sold". 

 Looks good though. Nice even rolls. Always sand, clean, AND primer metal eh Maybe even a brush coat of black(?) on the edges before the finish coat. Edges chip easier and hold less paint at the tip of the "point(s)" of edges.

Last edited by Adriatic

and my latest hair brain idea.....

I got a 225E shell in a junk deal several years ago with a chunk broken out of the cab.

PTDC0001L

thought about finding a busted shell for the window section, but haven't yet.

I already have a complete 225E....so the wheels have turned on different ideas. The Wife bought a 675 shell for me at an antique shop a few months ago.

PTDC0002L

I started to do up another K4, but since I already have four 675/2025/2035s, I was thinking of doing something different. 

PTDC0003L

so the dremel came out.......

PTDC0004L

PTDC0005L

It will get a fourth driving axle, probably end up a 4-8-2 or 4? And I've been wanting to do another Vandy tender. 

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Steamer posted:

and my latest hair brain idea.....

I got a 225E shell in a junk deal several years ago with a chunk broken out of the cab.

PTDC0001L

thought about finding a busted shell for the window section, but haven't yet.

I already have a complete 225E....so the wheels have turned on different ideas. The Wife bought a 675 shell for me at an antique shop a few months ago.

PTDC0002L

I started to do up another K4, but since I already have four 675/2025/2035s, I was thinking of doing something different. 

PTDC0003L

so the dremel came out.......

PTDC0004L

PTDC0005L

It will get a fourth driving axle, probably end up a 4-8-2 or 4? And I've been wanting to do another Vandy tender. 

I love it Dave!  Turn that imagination loose!!!! 

Went to a train show/swap meet in Hamburg PA yesterday- wish I would've went earlier but I was waiting on my dad. Regardless- got a few nice pieces of tin!:

1st off Brimtoy Station:

Brimtoy Station

 

Next from bottom left to top right: Marx Block Signal, AF prewar 8 Wheel 1116(works decently for transitions between Ives, Bing,Flyer, Marx & Lionel Slot &Latch couplers), Marx Electric prewar CV(LOVE THIS GUY!) Mizuno 'East West' Caboose, All Wooden Kit Northern Refrigetertor Car CO.-Maker unknown(INFO Appreciated!). In the back- Marx floodlight tower.Hamburg Mizino AF Prewar Marx CV, Marx bLOCK nrc kIT

Marx 567 Side Dump($5) & Marx Colorado & Southern R.R. Refrigerator car(20 less than the price at an LHS!)

Marx 6 2 Hamburg Freight

FINALLY!!! Marx Twin AA Southern Pacific 6000. Good Lord do I love how this guy moves on the tracks- so much so that 2 of my 3 lines are about to become Tin Only!

SP 600 Marx Twin AA

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  • Brimtoy Station
  • Hamburg Mizino AF Prewar Marx CV, Marx bLOCK nrc kIT: Mizuno East West Tin, Northern Refrigerator Co. Wooden kit, AF Burlington Route Gondola, Marx CV
  • Marx 6 2 Hamburg Freight: Marx 567 NYC Lines Dump Car Marx 555 Colorado Southern 555
  • SP 600 Marx Twin AA: Marx SP 6000 Twin AA units powered and dummy
Last edited by StevefromPA

 

The Marx 6000 SP with a previous dummy unit in addition to the European cars I picked up(close-ups and descriptions following up below)Marx SP flood tower Bing Bub Hornby

Can't recall if this is a Bing, Bubg or a Hornby? The coupler in the foreground is the original coupler- tried to change how it was facing(previously faced upwards) but it broke. Replaced it with a Marx coupler initially as well as a couple from the Mizuno caboose. Ended up removing both couplers from the Mizuno Caboose to fit on to this guy and it looks great and fits as a great transition piece. Kicking myself for not picking up the Blue 2nd and 3rd class coach but it had no couplers. Regardless, really like this car- can anyone tell me who the maker is? My guess is Karl BubBing Byb Hornby? Class 1 & 2

Love this guy! Already have a Bing baggage car(10/565- 1931) w/ Auto Couplers as well as Marklin 17280. This is my first car with a KB/BW combined logo(look closely to the right of the door on the far left- there's a "KB(above a)"BW") and has "Made in Bavaria" Litho'd on the top end on the "right side"(in terms of this picture orientation)

Bub Bing 14780 4602:0

Hornby by Meccano Pullman "Marjorie". Clearly not in great condition but I think it looks really cool and was close to buying one on eBay a couple months back(different car name)

Hornby Meccanno Majorie

Corgi Renault from Corgi Heritage Classics collection. My Grandpa started my brother and I off with this collection,  w now have 3 of the 5. Love these guys.

corgi Renault 6 2

Finally, was going back and forth between the engine which I've had in my sights for quite sometime- 1.)an Ives 3258(Yellow Body, Green Roof) with 4 cars(very reasonably priced) a then 2.) a Hornby SNCF 20v electric outline French Market. Was going to pull the trigger on the Hornby so I could have an engine that goes with my European cars with that type of coupler(have been using my Lionel 254e that has been fitting with the latch/slot coupler and actually does hooks up quite well). Bench tested the Hornby- but it didn't move- no noise, nada.


 

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  • Bing Byb Hornby? Class 1 & 2
  • Bub Bing 14780 4602:0
  • corgi Renault 6 2
  • Hornby Meccanno Majorie
  • Marx SP flood tower Bing Bub Hornby
Last edited by StevefromPA

nice finds Steve. Our oldest daughter's name is Marjorie. It was  impossible to find anything with her name on it when she was growing up...the little licence plates for the bicycle, ,Marjorie's Room, etc. A couple years ago a forum member posted a pic of the Hornby Marjorie, and while he didn't want to sell his, his tipped me off to one on da bay. It sit's in her office now.

 

Marjorie

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@StevefromPA  prewar in general used more voltage. 

  Look at the prewar Z for example, it tops out at 25v. A later ZW is 20v. (The Z counted on external whistle boxes that ate 5v. The ZW separates 5v worth of windings and sends it straight to the internal whistle circuit, leaving 20v worth of windings for the throttles/acc..)

  The other difference is, it is likely it was a 50hz system there, but in the states we mostly use 60hz.  Good news is that the 50hz motors characteristics on 60hz should all improve slightly.  

  The question is would the 20v rating be like saying our motors are a 12v (cruising speed, most efficient), or 20v (max "safe" voltage)¿? ; Because there were 40-50v trains...which I imagine would run at slowish prototypical speed at 20v.    I.e. it may be half speed at full throttle, or will run just like most prewar, but it should run. With lite tin behind it, you'd be ok even if it was high volt I think.

StevefromPA posted:

 

2.) a Hornby SNCF 20v electric outline French Market. Was going to pull the trigger on the Hornby so I could have an engine that goes with my European cars with that type of coupler(have been using my Lionel 254e that has been fitting with the latch/slot coupler and actually does hooks up quite well). Bench tested the Hornby- but it didn't move- no noise, nada.


 

Most French Hornby 20V are DC with permanent magnet, so will not move on an AC transformer.

Regards

Fred

Thank you @sncf231e for that information- I did test it DC(hope I pressed the correct switch at the testing table)- and there was nothing going. The seller didn't seem very confident that it would work but said he was going to tinker with it and would be back for the next meet it July. and thank you @Adriatic for your insight and asking the questions which I've been wanting to ask as they relate to  a Marklin baggage car I acquired some weeks ago- think I'm gonna make another thread for it.

Last edited by StevefromPA
Steamer posted:

nice finds Steve. Our oldest daughter's name is Marjorie. It was  impossible to find anything with her name on it when she was growing up...the little licence plates for the bicycle, ,Marjorie's Room, etc. A couple years ago a forum member posted a pic of the Hornby Marjorie, and while he didn't want to sell his, his tipped me off to one on da bay. It sit's in her office now.

 

Marjorie

That's a really cool story @Steamer . There's certain items i keep in my office at work from my grandfather, haven't added a train yet, but next year I will. Regardless, very cool story and that Pullman is in great shape! I've been trying to find some train for my younger brother, as his birthday is coming up, that would have the type of a personal touch like your gift to your daughter.  Don't think I'll ever find a car with "Andrew" as the name but I'm sure I'll find something

GeoPeg posted:
Dennis Holler posted:

F3F43153-743C-4CFA-B82E-FE26ABFC0051Got this 255E project in the mail the other day. Now waiting its turn. Nice straight frame worth the price of admission.

 

Looks like the start of some fun. Interesting cross shaped fastener holding the drive rod to the rear drive wheel - what is that called? And what tool is needed to tighten/loosen without damage?

George

These types of heads are called "Line drive" or "cross drive" or "cross spanner" these days.  There is a spanner bit made that -with some grinding- can be made to work... start with a #14 spanner bit.

Just picked this part of a Bing platform up on eBay after the seller accepted me offer.

D47F65FF-AA03-4A5D-B67B-2221291CE5EE

After picking up a Wellls-Brimtoy raised station this past weekend, I really liked it but hate how it lacks a back. Besides buying another station to make it symmetrical, Which I didn’t want to do, I was stuck with placing it somewhere that the back wouldn’t be seen, which, with my current layout, meant having it face away from the track unless I’d make some major changes. With this piece, I don’t have to put it against a wall or worry as much about strategic placement because it adds a backside to the station. Once it arrives in the next 4 weeks( lol) I’ll be sure to post pictures.

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StevefromPA posted: 

 All Wooden Kit Northern Refrigetertor Car CO.-Maker unknown(INFO Appreciated!).Hamburg Mizino AF Prewar Marx CV, Marx bLOCK nrc kIT

 

 

there were a lot of sources for that type of kit built boxcars both pre and post war.  Picard, Westbrook, Hawk, and several others  are likely suspects.  Champion, of decal fame, also made printed cardboard sides.  Here are a couple of Westbrook cars for comparison.

100_3282100_3564100_3565

I have some others with prewar trucks on them like yours  and they work really we and look great in a train with the late prewar diecast steamers.

100_0495

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Rob English posted:
GeoPeg posted:
Dennis Holler posted:

F3F43153-743C-4CFA-B82E-FE26ABFC0051Got this 255E project in the mail the other day. Now waiting its turn. Nice straight frame worth the price of admission.

 

Looks like the start of some fun. Interesting cross shaped fastener holding the drive rod to the rear drive wheel - what is that called? And what tool is needed to tighten/loosen without damage?

George

These types of heads are called "Line drive" or "cross drive" or "cross spanner" these days.  There is a spanner bit made that -with some grinding- can be made to work... start with a #14 spanner bit.

Thanks, @Rob English I appreciate the response!

George

StevefromPA posted:

Just picked this part of a Bing platform up on eBay after the seller accepted me offer.

D47F65FF-AA03-4A5D-B67B-2221291CE5EE

After picking up a Wellls-Brimtoy raised station this past weekend, I really liked it but hate how it lacks a back. Besides buying another station to make it symmetrical, Which I didn’t want to do, I was stuck with placing it somewhere that the back wouldn’t be seen, which, with my current layout, meant having it face away from the track unless I’d make some major changes. With this piece, I don’t have to put it against a wall or worry as much about strategic placement because it adds a backside to the station. Once it arrives in the next 4 weeks( lol) I’ll be sure to post pictures.

I saw one like this that I was watching. I think it had railing on three sides. I am looking for one that has the two horizontal bars through the stanchions instead of the balusters. Yours will look good with your station though.

George

An update on my standard gauge interurban created by Karl Rammling from an old Lionel passenger car. When I bought it at York the front was partly bare metal from Karl's original conversion many years ago. The ends have now been painted, window glass / clerestory added in the side and end windows, and green and red lenses added in the marker light openings (from an old Lionel 022 switch lamp). I also added an additional bulb up front to illuminate the headlight. It already ran great with it's Lionel bild-a-loco motor and chain drive, now it looks a bit more complete.

Here's what it looked like when I got it, lots of bare metal where the new front end had been created, removing the original doorway and adding windows, headlight and destination sign:

Karl Rammling standard gauge interurban before

Current appearance:

Karl Rammling interurban 6-8-19 2Karl Rammling interurban 6-8-19 3Karl Rammling interurban 6-8-19 4Karl Rammling interurban 6-8-19

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George S posted:
StevefromPA posted:

Just picked this part of a Bing platform up on eBay after the seller accepted me offer.

D47F65FF-AA03-4A5D-B67B-2221291CE5EE

After picking up a Wellls-Brimtoy raised station this past weekend, I really liked it but hate how it lacks a back. Besides buying another station to make it symmetrical, Which I didn’t want to do, I was stuck with placing it somewhere that the back wouldn’t be seen, which, with my current layout, meant having it face away from the track unless I’d make some major changes. With this piece, I don’t have to put it against a wall or worry as much about strategic placement because it adds a backside to the station. Once it arrives in the next 4 weeks( lol) I’ll be sure to post pictures.

I saw one like this that I was watching. I think it had railing on three sides. I am looking for one that has the two horizontal bars through the stanchions instead of the balusters. Yours will look good with your station though.

George

George, I got lazy and posted a picture from a website instead of the one that I got on ebay with a red underside and yellow rubber stamped "Made in Germany". Curious- particular reason that you're looking for one with 2 bars perpendicular to the stanchions? Trying to complete a set? I know this piece I bought was separated from the  station platform with which it originally could be placed alongside or with a rail line or something else in between to add the number of lines the platform could service 

 

StevefromPA posted:
George S posted:
StevefromPA posted:

Just picked this part of a Bing platform up on eBay after the seller accepted me offer.

 

After picking up a Wellls-Brimtoy raised station this past weekend, I really liked it but hate how it lacks a back. Besides buying another station to make it symmetrical, Which I didn’t want to do, I was stuck with placing it somewhere that the back wouldn’t be seen, which, with my current layout, meant having it face away from the track unless I’d make some major changes. With this piece, I don’t have to put it against a wall or worry as much about strategic placement because it adds a backside to the station. Once it arrives in the next 4 weeks( lol) I’ll be sure to post pictures.

I saw one like this that I was watching. I think it had railing on three sides. I am looking for one that has the two horizontal bars through the stanchions instead of the balusters. Yours will look good with your station though.

George

George, I got lazy and posted a picture from a website instead of the one that I got on ebay with a red underside and yellow rubber stamped "Made in Germany". Curious- particular reason that you're looking for one with 2 bars perpendicular to the stanchions? Trying to complete a set? I know this piece I bought was separated from the  station platform with which it originally could be placed alongside or with a rail line or something else in between to add the number of lines the platform could service 

 

I’ve seen this one listed, but it’s not in my budget and I already have the canopy. 

E5136968-B9CE-4C97-9701-61A408E5DC7F

I like the look of it and the railing is similar to the railing on the station I built for my layout.

George

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John Smatlak posted:

An update on my standard gauge interurban created by Karl Rammling from an old Lionel passenger car. When I bought it at York the front was partly bare metal from Karl's original conversion many years ago. The ends have now been painted, window glass / clerestory added in the side and end windows, and green and red lenses added in the marker light openings (from an old Lionel 022 switch lamp). I also added an additional bulb up front to illuminate the headlight. It already ran great with it's Lionel bild-a-loco motor and chain drive, now it looks a bit more complete.

Here's what it looked like when I got it, lots of bare metal where the new front end had been created, removing the original doorway and adding windows, headlight and destination sign:

Karl Rammling standard gauge interurban before

Current appearance:

Karl Rammling interurban 6-8-19 2Karl Rammling interurban 6-8-19 3Karl Rammling interurban 6-8-19 4Karl Rammling interurban 6-8-19

It looks great John! How exactly is it powered?

Added more to my American Market Bing collection. A few More photos to come when I get home and more Bing in general to come this week!

1st up. #205 NEw York Central Lines, 8 wheel coach, wood side litho with orange letterings and orange window frames. Embossed “GBN(in diamond) Bavaria” on the bottom. Litho’d “Bing Miniature Railway System”(first car I have with that) on the top of each end

B0C993FC-6298-46C6-BE7B-8B96F15A70D1

Another 205 New York Central Lines, 8 wheel coach, wood side litho  with yellow lettering And window frames. Embossed “GBN(in diamond) Bavaria” on the bottom. Litho’d “Bing Miniature Railroad System” on the top of each end

89410630-977E-4881-B501-E23A80B2E91D

The only thing new here is the 20th Century in the back. Otherwise this i’ve posted this 259 woodwide litho Observation before. 20th century came from another NYC 259 that I bought. I’ll show the next picture later. You’ll notice that the 20th century is off center b/c it only has 7 ‘grooves’. My Pennsylvania RR Lines Riveted Obs car and the aforementioned NYC Lines all have 8 ‘grooves(?)’  on which to put this sign. Will likely switch out the back of the observations so that the sign is centered 

D4E5AB5B-21E5-4284-8254-0F4641E4DB2E

Bing 4 wheel New York Central Lines coach. Riveted litho body. Embossed bottom with “BW Germany”

F3A4049F-8E73-49EF-B2B8-D966140B8C25

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George S posted:
StevefromPA posted:
George S posted:
StevefromPA posted:

Just picked this part of a Bing platform up on eBay after the seller accepted me offer.

 

After picking up a Wellls-Brimtoy raised station this past weekend, I really liked it but hate how it lacks a back. Besides buying another station to make it symmetrical, Which I didn’t want to do, I was stuck with placing it somewhere that the back wouldn’t be seen, which, with my current layout, meant having it face away from the track unless I’d make some major changes. With this piece, I don’t have to put it against a wall or worry as much about strategic placement because it adds a backside to the station. Once it arrives in the next 4 weeks( lol) I’ll be sure to post pictures.

I saw one like this that I was watching. I think it had railing on three sides. I am looking for one that has the two horizontal bars through the stanchions instead of the balusters. Yours will look good with your station though.

George

George, I got lazy and posted a picture from a website instead of the one that I got on ebay with a red underside and yellow rubber stamped "Made in Germany". Curious- particular reason that you're looking for one with 2 bars perpendicular to the stanchions? Trying to complete a set? I know this piece I bought was separated from the  station platform with which it originally could be placed alongside or with a rail line or something else in between to add the number of lines the platform could service 

 

I’ve seen this one listed, but it’s not in my budget and I already have the canopy. 

E5136968-B9CE-4C97-9701-61A408E5DC7F

I like the look of it and the railing is similar to the railing on the station I built for my layout.

George

Good stuff George! Admittedly,I’d prefer the canopy . Thanks for showing this!

Got these in the mail yesterday. While there’s still plenty out there- I’m pretty much done buying Bing New York Central - unless its a loco .These guys look nice behind a 254E:

2395 Combine Car And 205 woodsode Coach. Combine car is probably my favorite overall. Woodside coach came with an Ives roof but I have a few of those 205s already

E532A4FC-C9DE-4C0A-B983-4A95A3F202E3E0E28A0E-9016-4479-A438-E3812807E0D2

250 NYC OBservation Car, Lakewood Obervation Car, Winnebago Coach431A0B1C-1E9C-41D2-AF4D-CF88A21CFC9C

some extras- the 205 on the left is nice(brightest 205 I have) but is really scuffed up. In the middle is an extra Lakewood Obs that came without wheels. In the back is a 4 wheel 259 Observation. On the right is a 205 with a terribly faded body that came with a frame with only one truck so I tried- and failed- to add a Marx truck to it.image

got these guys today. Thats the nice side of the B&O. Was sold as not running- got it moving in about 10min after some lube, piling and cleaning. The UP challenger has the auto couplers with a slot in them to connect tabs, had been looking for one of those at the right price for awhile. 231CED25-376E-4608-A3F6-01CE65994CCF

Finally, Bing watchman’s shanty without the base. Still a nice looking piece. Both doors open and the handle locks both doors too.072BCE19-DCBC-41A2-A837-820BBD7FB37F

first Bing piece I’ve bought with this logo that says “Bavaria” under the Be instead of Germany283D9D71-5119-4E5C-A998-4277DB0DF49A

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Adriatic posted:

Still Germany, Bravaria is Germany's largest state. It's between Czechoslovakia, Austria, Switzerland, and the the rest of Germany (the seacoast). It's at the Northeast side of, at the base of the Alps. 

Butch i mighta hit my head but I haven’t forgotten geography or European history lol.

I, and others, have wondered why Bing went from BAVARIA or MADE IN BAVARIA to replacing Bavaria with Germany. As you said it’s Germany’s largest state. It’s held special status, whether as an electorate or something else, throughout the history of “Germany”(quotes because Germany has gone through quite a few iterations since the fall of Holy Roman Empire). Possibly because laws were not nearly as specific back then that by not naming the trademark by country they avoided the post-WWI protective tariffs? 

Who knows- I just like it

 

  As well as fooled a few customers with anti-German sentiment, which was high for some unkown reason 🤔..  

  Who knows, they may have even been thinking of trying to rename it all Bravaria, or Prussia, etc.  I think one of my early 1900s encylopedias may refer to it as Bavaria too. (very interesting reading from an extremely dated encylcopedia. The state of mind, habits to beliefs, prejudices to politics of the day show themselves well dated, and often laughable contrasting against today)

Adriatic posted:

 I think one of my early 1900s encylopedias may refer to it as Bavaria too. 

Bavaria was still a Kingdom in the early 1900s with King Otto I until 1913 and before that the famous King Ludwig II who had a luxurious train made for himself, this is my H0 model of one of the cars.

Regards

Fred

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StevefromPa, Adriatic, and SNCF231E - just to add to the confusion below is a timeline progression of the trademark from some boxed sets of Bing.

Box lid from train cataloged in 1904 - Clockwork European outline engine

Bing_Box_1904

Box lid from train cataloged 1914 - American Market

Bing_Box_1914 copy

Box lid from trains mid-1920's - train set is NYC for the American market. Cars have plated wheels and are illuminated

Bing_Box_1924

Box lid from trains cataloged late 1920's - Generic set - electric outline locomotive passenger train would fit in anywhere

Bing_Box_late_1920s copy

 

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@Popi very cool AF tanker. Have acouple AF prewar- tanker is on my to get list! Also like that it’s Texaco as well!

An thanks for those pics @Robert S. Butler !! Gonna addthese to my Bing Logo Library lol. Actually just got my first piece with the logo from the last box you purchased. Part of a Passenger platform,  Yellow stamped on the bottom. 

This website is one of the websites I’ve been using for timeline purposes. 

Any idea if the embossed logos on the bottom of cars and the earlier litho’d trademarks on the frame differ from the logos on the boxes they came in? I have quite a few American Market cars with embossed bottom logos that are all over the place(plain GBN like in your first pic, BW Germany like in your second pic. Then I have an English Market freight wagon and a German Market Baggage car with an litho’d logo on the top ends of the car that is similar to your last pic- although not sure if it says “Made in” in front of Germany.

My favorite litho’d logo is from a 14780 Baggage car(looks just like this https://www.historytoy.com/bub...ge-car-green-gauge-0 ) except there’s only a 14780 on one side, on the other side there’s a logo that has a KB over the BW. See pic below:

A9830BD3-8737-40CF-9B91-C06C465542BA

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Robert S. Butler posted:

StevefromPa, Adriatic, and SNCF231E - just to add to the confusion below is a timeline progression of the trademark from some boxed sets of Bing.

Box lid from train cataloged in 1904 - Clockwork European outline engine

Bing_Box_1904

Box lid from train cataloged 1914 - American Market

Bing_Box_1914 copy

Box lid from trains mid-1920's - train set is NYC for the American market. Cars have plated wheels and are illuminated

Bing_Box_1924

Box lid from trains cataloged late 1920's - Generic set - electric outline locomotive passenger train would fit in anywhere

Bing_Box_late_1920s copy

 

I believe the GBN logo means gebruder bing nuremberg, or Brothers Bing of Nuremberg. I would guess the reason why they used Bavaria in the 20's for the American market was because of the anti-German sentiment from WW1.

George

I have been desperately trying to give my wallet a bit of a rest lately ... the moths that live in there have been complaining raucously!

I was doing so well , until one of my weakness's appeared on the 'bay and forced my hand

I really dont know why I have this weakness for Wittrock stuff, probably because it was only made for a few years and you dont see it very often. Being Danish in origin its not super well known outside of Denmark ...

Apologies for the photos as they are stolen off the listings ( haven't shipped to me yet)

So I got my third Clockwork Loco ...

And a nice little Postal Wagon

A cute little blue DSB Carriage..

DSB Freight...

And one especially for Fred @sncf231e

At first I wasnt too sure if the seller had got it right listing it as a Wittrock .. but using advanced Google-foo I did find it in a wittrock set picture (stolen from web)

All in all it was a good result .. only missed out on one wagon ( Fyffes "jamacan bananer")

I think there is only that one, the Carlsberg and a refrigerated van to complete my collection of Wittrock ?

 

 

 

Last edited by Fatman
Robert S. Butler posted:

The KB over BW logo dates from the 1930's takeover of Bing by Karl Bub.  I don't know how long that combined logo lasted. The actual year for the logo transition was 1933 - according to Claude Jeanmarie's book Bing Modellbahnen.

Yes, there was something major that happened in 1933 in that region, If not mistaken Bing (family) were of Jewish ancestory and the company was removed from his control at that time.  I should caution my comments are based on memory of things read over time.  That said If I remember correctly Bing then left and went to UK as he had ties with BS and other makers in the UK.    Fred or another regional member can probably provide some more accurate detail.  Also if you can find Bing and or KBN catalogs from the time there is overlap.  A lot of the Bing cars and accesories ended up in KBN catalogs.  I have some saved scans of I think a 1932 KBN cat so there may have been some overlap there.  But I think Bing was gone from Germany in1933 or soon there after.

Edit, just looked the 1932 is still Bing, not KBN.  it is the 1934 KBN scan that seems to show a lot of Bing stuff.  Of course timeline wise this would support the 1933 change as discussed above.

Last edited by Dennis Holler

Dennis,

 If this helps, from the TCA:

Fortunes turned and by 1927 Bing was in serious financial trouble and the company's president, Stephan Bing, and his son, left the company. The US stock market crash of 1928 resulted in huge debts on the part of the John Bing division in New York being called in, for which the parent corporation had to take responsibility. This led to financial difficulties for Bing Werke, but given the political climate in Germany in 1932 (the Bing family was Jewish), no bank would loan Bing additional money. Bing Werke ceased to exist in August, 1932, and the assets were liquidated. Much of its tooling was acquired by rival toy companies. Falk and Krauss purchased the model steam related equipment, while Karl Bub of Bub Trains took the model train line, Fritz Hintermayr acquired the name and the gas boiler production, and Fleischmann bought up the model boat fabrication tooling and machinery. Bub continued building the Bing line of trains until the onset of WW2, and later folded completely in the 1960's. Bing went out of business for good in 1933 and the factory was abandoned.

Tom

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