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I have some brass, nickel plated passenger cars that I'm trying to apply common waterslide decals to. Do I need to prep the car with a clear lacquer of some sort before applying the decal? I have attempted to apply decals to the raw surface and can't get them to stick completely. I can see silvering and some fogging of the decal film and no amount of decal setting solution fixes the problem. The techniques I use work fine on glossy, painted surfaces, but don't seem to work on raw nickel plated surfaces.

 

Ken

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I woud say yes, a good clear gloss laquer would be a good idea. Only caution I have is to test on the carbody first or like plated surface to make sure it doesn't yellow too much for your tastes after application and drying, another indicator is how much of a yellow tint it has in the bottle beforehand. I note this varies between "hobby" and "automotive" grades as well it's age.

Pete 

I'll experiment with the Future Floor Wax and post how it turns out. I'm working on two Sunset/3rd Rail RDC's and a couple of Pecos River passenger cars. My present problem is with the RDC's. I'm using a mixture of Microscale, Champ, and custom laser decals and none of them want to stick completely. Back in my HO days I decaled a few nickel plated cars and didn't have any problem. Of course those decals were much smaller.

 

Ken

I have shifted away from Future, which I used to use extensively, in favor of Testors Clear Gloss Enamel. Not the usual GlossCote, which is lacquer based.  It comes in a spray can same as all the others. The advantages of enamel are that it is very easy to apply a smooth high gloss finish (2-3 mist coats, followed with one "wet" coat), and that it is impervious to decal setting solutions, even Walther's Solvaset.  It is also impervious to Dullcote.

 

It is also slightly resilient to scratching. So you can drag the edge of a #11 blade in a criss-cross pattern over the dried decal, and then liberally apply Solvaset to facilitate getting rid of any air bubbles. The only drawback is you need to wait at least 24 hours for it to harden completely. But it is virtually impossible to see the edge of the decals or any air bubbles.

 

Judge for yourself:

 

 

 

X31

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Last edited by John Sethian
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