Great Northern railway

New deliveries;

Good prices on both so I bought them.

TCS raised their prices a 'bunch' but found one TCS 1517 online that was only 7 bucks over what I used to pay for them ie $93.

Got 11 TCS decoders now; won't meet all future demands but I'll, probably, never get all my engines converted, anyway!

BLI made the functional water tower several years ago so they are hard to find, now, but one dealer had one at a very good price of only 76 bucks (versus list of $120) and no shipping charges so I purchased it.

I've, already, have 4 of these located on the layout where the steam engines have to stop for 'water'.  Thought the new one would be good in the upper interchange/staging loop area.

At the bottom of the basement steps was a spider 'hanging out'.  Left him 'as is' since they eat insects.  Small ones I don't mind; the 'big ones' get removed to 'outside'!

New delivery.

PRR P5A boxcab electric.

WOW: Ordered it on Tuesday and got here in 2 days from Florida via USPS.

Imported by BLI in 2021 and has a cast metal superstructure.

BLI sold this under there 'referb' section and at 50% off, I'll 'bite'.

I was hoping to find one of these really cheap and figured, if I wait along enough, one would 'pop up';  patience isn't always my highest virtue!

I've never had any issues with their 'referbs' as they always look like they are new.

This is the 'freight' version.

Paragon 3.

Loaded into my Decoderpro roster.  This makes the 4th P5A so, now, they can handle a full freight track of 45 cars.

I updated the 'car capacity' column.

All Pullman green.  Safety chains on the lead/trailing trucks.

The other 3 P5A's are 'passenger' versions.   

I like the freight's darker green over the passenger's green.

The passenger version has a beige roof.

I could replace those 'long shank' couplers with shorter ones for a more scale 'look'.

MMM: some dust on the passenger engine which, easily, came off with a soft brush.

Changed all the addresses to 4716 since the freight engine is the only one with large numbers on the side of the engine and easy to read versus the 'only' small numbers on the number boards on the passenger engines!

Making your own 'keep alives' for your decoders.

Excellent video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nm2b7MfQrFs

Parts needed:

Super capacitor 3V 1F #581-SCCR12E105SRB Mouser.com

Resistor 100 ohm 1/2W #293-100 AllElectronics.com

Diode 1A #1N4001 AllElectronics.com

Zener diode 12V 1W #1N4642 AllElectronics.com

Battery Shrink Wrap 29.5mm PVC Amazon.com

Here's a picture of the component layout.

Parts that I bought.  One has to buy the supercapacitors at a different website versus the other parts.

The capacitors were $100.53 for 60 including shipping and the other parts were $17.32 including shipping for a total of $117.85.  I've got enough to make 15 'keep alives' so that's $7.86 each versus 30 bucks, or so, if bought 'ready made'.

NOTE: I didn't buy the 'heat shrink' as I, already, have plenty of it.

All my TCS decoders have 'keep alives' but a lot of the BLI models do not.

NOTE: I'll go into more detail when I make them, including how to connect them to a decoder.

Care has to be taken knowing where to connect to a decoder else you will 'smoke' the decoder.

NMRA MCR DIV 7 train show and new delivery.

============

Train show.

Last night about 12 of us set up all the tables for the show. 

A good crowd. 

Main gymnasium.

Outer hall taken before the show started.

Nancy and Sam are always at all the shows with 'demos'.

Div 7 company store.

Roy organizes this event.

Frank's 'white elephant' sale.

Div 7 membership table.

A 'wind up' that plays 'I've been working on the railroad'.

John and sister Traci run Hamilton hobbies: trains, planes and cars.

These people will build you a riding railroad in your backyard.

==============

Goodies bought.

Already have one of these track cleaner cars but, for 30 bucks, I'll take another one!

Also, got some Kadee 805 couplers which have been discontinued but, with narrow shanks, are good for mounting on the front of steam engines.

Didn't need any DVD's but, at 2 bucks each, I'll 'bite'.

===========

New delivery.

The new DCC specialties PSXXX circuit breakers.

Got one 4 pack and two 3 packs.

A month ago I bought one to test it and it resets about every 4 seconds without interfering with the command station.

The 4 pack will be on the far right and the two 3 packs will replace the left and center CB's.

I only use 2 of the 4 CB's on the left so a 3 pack will suffice.

Looks like another nice show!

The day the gauge changed:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v81Gwu6BTE

Train running:

=======

SF 2-10-10-2 imported by Westside models in 1976.

I put some 'canopy' glue on the drivers to increase its 'drawbar pull' but not by much as the engine can only handle about 15-20 cars.  Can motor installed, painted and TCS 1517 decoder and LED's added.

Wilmar.

============

Used a UP Veranda turbine to pull the freight cars 'West ward'.

Engine imported by MTH in 2010.  All cast metal engine and tender.

videos:

Leaving Whitefish:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ejh0eOiZ66o

At Seattle's freight yard 'throat':

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nnwCuZHnJs4

Nicely detailed. Lighted number boards, two sets of headlights and cab lighting.

One cover is magnetically attached for access to volume and smoke.

The smoke didn't start working until the train reached Seattle; must of added too much smoke fluid.

MTH made an HO version of their 3-rail 'remote uncoupling' couplers.  A little out of scale but functional!

You have a dream fleet of locomotives! I'm starting to rethink coming down to visit the layout this year. I had planned to sink my time into my own but maybe the trip would teach me some last minute lessons on layouts.

Railroaders are always welcomed.

Just email me.

@BillYo414 posted:

You have a dream fleet of locomotives! I'm starting to rethink coming down to visit the layout this year. I had planned to sink my time into my own but maybe the trip would teach me some last minute lessons on layouts.

@samparfitt posted:

Railroaders are always welcomed.

Just email me.

You and me both, Bill!  Maybe we could car pool.

Cover of the March 2022 GNRHS quarterly.

https://gnrhs.org/

I will figure out some dates @Mark Boyce. I'll probably rent a car. 

@BillYo414 posted:

I will figure out some dates @Mark Boyce. I'll probably rent a car.

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$😄😄😄😄😄😄😄😄😄😄

@Mark Boyce yeah, I know. But my daily driver is already at 156,000 miles. I need to stretch it until my student loans are paid off/gone haha so paying a little extra not to put a trip across Ohio on my car is a good move for me personally. I just spent a great deal on parts for the car. I should be able to get at least 30,000 miles more out of it if the body and transmission hold up.

Either way, I have some high priority projects around the house. I don't foresee this trip for another two or three months. I'm leaning towards a day trip if you think you could. Drive times don't bother me at all.

My 18 year old 2005 (bought Nov, 2004) has 203,000 miles on it and I have no trouble taking it on my summer RC airplane flyins pulling my 14' trailer.  Had it 'rust proofed'  when I bought it new.  No rust. Change the oil every 3,000 miles, change all fluids every 100,000 miles: ie transmission, rear end differential, antifreeze, power steering, bleed brakes and plugs/ignition wires.  Has V8 325 CI motor and 'scoots' when I put the 'pedal to the metal' on the high way.

No vehicle payments for the last 18 years allows me to buy a lot of 'train stuff'!

If the engine or transmission goes 'south', I'll have them rebuilt: I only like 'normal aspirated' engines; they last an extremely long time and are 'low maintenance'.  I'm figuring 300,000 plus before any major 'engine/tran' repairs.

Rebuilds will be much cheaper than a new truck!

No tears on the seats.

No cracks on the dash.

Could eat off my engine compartment!

no cracks in the door panels.  Manual windows and locks: they always 'work'!

no rust.

bottoms of doors clean.

no rust 'underside'.

@samparfitt posted:

Could eat off my engine compartment!

Sam,

You obviously take better care of your vehicles than 99% of other drivers including me.  My two cars are both 2003 models and were paid for a long time ago.  I keep them in OK shape but neither of them gleams like your truck.  

The automobile industry counts on people replacing their cars and trucks every 3 or 4 years.  If everyone did what you are doing the car industry would go broke.    Well done!  NH Joe

My vehicles aren't often clean but there are maintained. I change fluids and even parts every so often. So far the only thing that ever beat me was an ignition cylinder stuck in the on position. There was a recall on that part a few months later. I had to pull the fuel pump relay to turn the car off.

Either way, I wouldn't mind renting a car. Heck, if enough of us from the OH/PA line go, maybe we could rent a party bus

@BillYo414 posted:

My vehicles aren't often clean but there are maintained. I change fluids and even parts every so often. So far the only thing that ever beat me was an ignition cylinder stuck in the on position. There was a recall on that part a few months later. I had to pull the fuel pump relay to turn the car off.

Either way, I wouldn't mind renting a car. Heck, if enough of us from the OH/PA line go, maybe we could rent a party bus

😄 👍🏻

I get it.  My 2003 Hyundai only has 141,000 miles, and I don’t want to replace it either especially at today’s used car prices.  Actually, it has held up well over 19 winters salt, but anything could happen.  We bought a 2016 Ford Escape for my wife 3 years ago and only owe one payment.

Just call me a cheap SOB!  Vehicles depreciate extremely fast; probably more than any other item purchased by a consumer.  I've only owned 3 new vehicles over 50 some years and I, usually, get 200,000-300,000 on them.

New deliveries:

B&O E-1 B unit, UP 4-12-2 and NP Z-2 2-8-8-2 plus CB's and speakers.

==================

Love it when 4 packages arrive in one day

================

My 2nd order of the new PXXX circuit breakers arrived.

I ordered these, previously, but I ordered the 'old' ones by mistake!

================

B&O E-1 B unit.

Imported by BLI in 2022.  This dealer ran out of the A units so I had to order the A unit 'else where' and it arrived about a week ago.

This is my 5th set of diesels: I pretty sure that's about all my 'patience' can 'handle'!

Video:

Seattle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LO0urkpfDhs

programming track.

A and B units in the roster listing.

pre oil.

Nicely detailed.

'See through' vents.

Not sure if that light is functional.  The diaphragm moves.

Departing the passenger yard.

By passing Seattle's freight yard.

==================

UP 4-12-2.

Imported by MTH in 2020. All cast metal engine and tender.

I'm a little anal on steam engines: if it isn't brass, it has to be cast metal.

Didn't really need this engine but:

1)  It was on a 'special sale' plus a St. Patrick's extra 60 bucks off.

2)  Has working Greasley valve for the 3rd cylinder.

3) It smokes.

4) lighted marker lights (engine and tender), lighted number boards, headlight plus red light on tender.

Video of the working Greasley valve plus the extra chuff:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J3mFcRehnTk

Got some 'sugar cube' speakers, also.

Nice box.  Not sure why it is 'so long' for the engine?

I like that they used foam.

As with BLI, engine and tender already attached.

Extra parts.

Oiling.

The cam on the 2nd driver is what moves the Greasley valve.

All drivers are flanged so MTH made the drivers articulated; 6-6.

One can 'override' the articulation and secure all wheels as on the prototype.

Will see if the 'articulation' is noticeable on my 48" curves before any changes.

The one set of side rods has an elongated hole to allow for the 'articulation'.

Also, note that they had to put a gear box on each set of drivers else the side rods would bind.

Multiple 'pickups' on the tender.

Switch is on 'DCC' versus MTH's 'DCS'.

programming track.

Greasley valve on the front of the cylinders in silver.

Lighted marker lights and number boards.

Here's the center for the 'articulation'.

Deck plate.

Tender lighted marker lights.

Double headed head lights.

Close up of the 'Greasley valve'.

========================

NP Z-2 2-8-8-2.

Imported by W&R in 1994.

Reasons I bought this engine:

1) W&R is suppose to be 'hi end' for brass so I thought I'd buy one.

2) most of the time these are very expensive but it was marked 20% off the already about 1/2 price of what it was selling when it was made in 1994.

3) this engine will never be 'mass produced'.

Videos:

Test run. very quiet:

The DC power starts at a high voltage so the engine is running at a fast 'clip'.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nuq3S2mcxq4

Looks like a box of candy!

Nicely detailed cab.  I think this is the first engine that I have with 'curtains'!

I thought the curtains were plastic but they are brass.

Deck plate.

I believe the prototypes were made in the early 1900's.

Left side.

NP didn't put 'northern pacific' on the side of these tenders so 'prototype'.

Engine and tender lighted.

top views.

Right side.

Tender has 'hoses' on the 'engine' side.

They may have marked the engine 20% off because there is some paint missing on the top right of the ladder and they said it was broken off.  A fellow railroader has one of these engines and said there is an extension only on one side of the ladder so all I had to do was 'touch it up' with some black paint.

Close up of ladder.

Lanyards to whistle...

and bell.

Interesting that NP made a cast raised plate for the engine numbers.

The front drivers move before the back drivers.

This is suppose to simulate front driver slippage that occurred when the engine first 'starts up'.

video of the 'slippage'.  Only a brief moment when the front drivers move before the back set of drivers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ywiVtFLwmYU

Also, a functional 'auger' between engine and tender: functional in that it will 'articulate'.

Testing the 'front driver' slippage.

I bought a Lionel 4-12-2 that I'm waiting to have arrive. I hope it has a working Gresley valve like yours. The catalog said it did but who knows what will happen haha

What a nice delivery, Sam!!  All the engines look great!  I really like the photograph of the passenger departing yard!

They and MTH do good work: I'm sure it will be functional.

Post a picture when it arrives.

============

Thanks, Mark.

You know I will!

Conversion of all my PSX-1 CB's to PSXX-1 CB's plus new delivery.

============

Circuit Breakers (CB) conversion.

Not sure if one can call it dedication or stupidity as I just spent 12.5 hours installing the new CB's (no breaks, no breakfast, no lunch, no dinner).  Started at 7 AM and worked until 7:30 PM and then 'broke out' the NH EP-5 for a 'break'.

A few weeks ago, I bought one PSXX to see how it would work and it worked great with no problems.

The other 9, not so easy!

I had CB ground wires that were on the 'common' ground and had to find those.  That occurred on one mainline district plus both yards had common grounds; not sure why the old CB's were working with that problem!

The 'test' engine would stop in the 'reverser' on the return loop; tried reversing the input wires and that worked.

Same thing happen at the Seattle yard; had to reverse the input wires.

Also, had a switch machine grounding in the Seattle yard so that was remedied.

Ran an engine several times from Seattle's turntable to the upper return loops and back and all seems good, finally!

Last problem is the St. Paul yard as it indicates a short when connecting the ground wire.

I cut off the yard's common ground from the mainline common ground figuring that would fix it but nada.

Did some searching for non DCC wires going to the yard common wire but no luck:

After 12.5 hours, I gave up for the night.

I needed to get these CB's all changed for Saturday's OPS session but not having the St. Paul yard is 'livable' although I'll work on it all day Saturday.

The new PSXX CB's are about a 1/2" longer and wider than the old PSX CB's.

Used this GG-1 to test the CB conversion.

One last CB to fix for the St. Paul yard.

==================

New delivery.

On a 'brighter note' the New Haven EP-5 electric arrived today.

The pantographs are remotely functional.

Videos:

Pantograph operation:

As the direction is changed; the back pantograph raises and the front pantograph lowers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kv3sP11SRvA

Yard test run:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iNXC2GioPbc

Nice box.  First engine that I've purchased from Rapido.

Nice foam with the usual plastic retainer.

Pantograph switch.  Comes in the 'OFF' position which explains why I couldn't get them to operate until I read the 'instructions'!  One can also make them operate via FN key 13 and 14.

Looks like both sides are insulated from each other for 'double' pickup.

I oiled the wheels while holding the engine as I didn't want to damage the pantographs by, even, laying them on foam.

programming track.

I looked for 'Rapido' for decoder options but nada so just had the 'system' read the decoder.

The engine is not very large as I thought it would be about the size of the GG-1 but nada.

It's also not very heavy and no traction tires so I'm guessing this engine will be limited to 10-15 cars.

I bought this engine for 3 reasons:

1) operating pantographs.

2)  reminds me of 'Lionel' days

3) like the bright colors.

Nicely detailed.

Interior but no crew.

Lighted number boards.

Very fine hand rails.

F for front, door 'kick plate' and builders plate.

I'm sorry you had so much trouble getting the PSXXs operating correctly.

The EP-1 looks great, and I'm not even an NH fan!

Thanks, Mark.

=============

That was too easy!

The CB to the St. Paul yard is fixed.

It's good to 'sleep' on a problem!

Ran 2 wires (hot and ground) directly from the CB to the terminal strip at the St. Paul yard and no short.

Did some diagnostics and started removing 2 hot wires and a ground and one of the hot wires was the problem. 

I just disconnect that wire.  Back when I had the PFM sound system I need multiple hot wires to prevent loss of sound.

I did have to run a ground wire up through the ceiling tiles to the ground wire that ran under the St. Paul yard that was disconnected from the main 12 gauge bare wire that 'runs' under the layout.

All better

43 years of 'spaghetti' wire but it isn't bad to diagnose since everything goes through terminal strips and they are all labeled.

The 'OLD' and the 'NEW'.  The old control panel is never used.

From the 'stone age' to the 'electronic age'!

Love what Joe and I did making an 'easy to use' dispatcher's panel.

Joe even added 'EAST' and 'WEST' so one knows which way the engine is traveling.

Not sure why but this crossing flasher is much brighter now even though it's independent of the mainline.

The new and 5th functional water tower has been installed in the upper return loop/staging area.

Glad I did one last test of all mainline track.  Had one spot between a turnout and another turnout leading to the 'electrics' that needed a ground wire.

As the engine entered each district, I turned off the ON/OFF toggle just to the right of each CB to insure the engine stopped and didn't get any 'cross over' power from another district.  Like using this Bachmann GG-1; can run it 99 SMPH to quickly check the track. 

Well, the 'acid' test will come tonight when the railroaders arrive and put several trains on the mainline at once!

I'm glad you found and corrected those problems.

GNRW Operating session plus Lakeland, Ohio train show pictures.

We started 'pizza eating' before everyone arrived.

Bill is from the Dayton area.

He ran the new B&O E1 A-B set from BLI passenger train.

Bypassing Seattle's freight yard.

Bob ran the Santa Fe E1 A-B passenger train.

John ran the N&W Jawn Henry.

Skykomish.

Ben brought his shay to run on the logging layout.

Has glow fire box.

DJ also from the Dayton area.  Operating the N&W J passenger train.

SF E-1's at Marias pass.

Dave's DM&IR M-3 2-8-8-4 Yellowstone departing Seattle's freight yard.

B&O E-1 at Tye.

The new CB's worked well.

Ben brought his C&NW mike.

Ben's mike at Skykomish.

Bob's SF E-1's at Waverly.

Steve and son Andrew.

John operating a PRR pair of electrics.

Ben's Mike at Marias pass.

Chumstick canyon trestle.

Joe kept busy with, virtually, the whole screen red.

Steve and Andrew running an NP A-3 4-8-4.

Dave and a B&O EM-1 2-8-8-4 at Waverly.

DJ's N&W J passenger train at Waverly.

GN R-2 2-8-8-2 freight drag at Marias pass.

Bob's UP E6 A-B-B train departing the passenger yard.

B&O EM-1 at Tye.

B&O EM-1 at the 'throat' of Seattle's freight yard.

Bob's UP E6's at Havre.

Chumstick canyon trestle.

UP M-10,000 at Skykomish.

M-10,000 medal.

Orange 'creamsicle' time.

Ben sent pictures that he took of his shay on the logging railroad.

DM&IR Yellowstone at Skykomish.

Gary, a fellow railroader, sent me pictures of Lakeland, Ohio's train show.

Looks like a great time was had by all. Glad the cb's worked out so well. It looks like Ben's shay is touching the rock overhang in one of his pictures.

Another good time!

On the logging railroad, after adding all the rocks, I had to 'carve away' a lot of of them so the logging engines could operate on the tracks; that was about 40 years ago!  Recently, I bought a 150 ton shay and no way that it can operate on the logging railroad so, since it's so large, it will be operated on the mainline.  Surprisingly, it runs fairly fast so it won't 'tie up' other trains.

The engine is huge compared to other Shays and looks like it's O gauge:

Video test run of engine:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TrBIDsG_BlA

Happiness.

PM after operating session.

========

New Haven EP-5 electric road test:

video:

departing Hillyard:

The engine is pretty small so it can handle only about a '15 car' train.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4csxSYTfLXU

Waverly.

=======================

The NP A-3 4-8-4 by BLI was stopping on one part of the layout.

Found I had to remove all that 'canopy' glue that I applied to the rail at 3 places that went from 0.5 to around 1.0% grade.

Each engine is different on 'electrical pickup' and some engines were losing electrical contact in some places.

I had the same problem with the PRR 'box cab' electrics.

===================

DM&IR M-3 2-8-8-4 by MTH.

Traction tire needed fixing.

========================

Had 5 passenger trains to reverse via the upper return loop to get all the cars in the correct order.

Used some electrics to reverse the N&W cars.

B&O had to be reversed.

Ditto on this train.

UP reversed.

last was the UP M-10000;

Only 4 cars so did it 'manually'.

===========

N&W Jawn Henry stopped running on the mainline.

I must of did a poor job on the two wires going to the motor as that was the problem.

Further diagnostics showed bad wires from the decoder to the connector.

Got it working but decided to add two extra wires from the decoder to the motors via another connector and 'smoked' the decoder.  Just ordered another one

================

Thought I'd use the C&O M-1 turbine for diagnostics of the Jawn Henry but I wired the decoder directly to the chassis on the M-1 versus in the superstructure on the Jawn Henry.

While testing, though, noticed that none of the marker lights (engine and tender) nor tender head light was working.

I must of had one of the engine marker lights shorting against the super structure as that function 4 no longer works,

so I'm just going to connect the marker lights to the one of the other 'light' functions.

Heated the canopy glue holding the old marker lights for easy removal.

Dipped the new marker lights in 'canopy' glue to insulate the bare wires.

A slow process installing each marker light as I have to wait for the glue on one side to harden before doing the other side.

The tender lights were on functions 1 and 2 (bell and whistle); it appears the default of TCS FL-2 (light only decoder) is for those two functions and I didn't 'notice it' on the 'initial decoder install'.

In Decoderpro I changed the functions to 4 and 5, respectively, for tender marker and head light.

An option is to select 'reverse headlight' but it didn't work for the FL-2 decoder (doesn't make sense why that option didn't work!)

The three lights were, also, changed to 'dim'.

Function 4 keeps the marker lights on but have to press function 5 for the headlight when in reverse; bummer.

'Road testing' a new engine;

UP 4-12-2 by MTH.  Fully lighted number boards and classification lights, nice scale chuffing smoke and working Greasley valve for the 3rd cylinder.  This is a cast metal engine and tender.

Videos:

Seattle:

One can, easily, hear the 3rd cylinder chuff.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzrnRNESzo4

Marias pass:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b30sRWmXLHQ

departing Hillyard:

Has close up of working Greasley valve.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKb-9RU1r2E

Skykomish:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xjqtJ-Lmdg

Despite having 2 traction tires, I had to add some 'canopy' glue to the drivers.

Skykomish.

Updated the roster for 20 cars 'pulling power'; not very good for a large engine.

Wilmar.

Functioning tender classification lights.

Waverly.

MTH made the front 3 sets of drivers articulated.

On an 8' curve, it's not noticeable.

On a 48" curve, it's noticeable but most of my 48" curves are under 'mountains' whereas most of the mainline is gentle curves.

Since I installed the new CB's engines get a short when entering the return loop with the 'auto reverser'.  The train is OK coming out of the loop.  I've purchased a new 'reverser' to see if the old one is defective.  Should arrive this week.

The 'articulation' is not noticeable on the #10 turnouts.

Nor the 8' curves.

I like the realistic smoke exhaust on the MTH engine: a 'sign' that the 'fireman' knows 'his stuff'!

Right view of the working Greasley valve; it is connected to the main valve 'system'.

Most of my engines require 45-60 SMPH but this engine only '16'.

Seattle yard; again, nice 'smoke'.

Nice builder's plate.  Number boards and classification lights work.

Some of the vintage Varney metal and Silver Streak wood cars.

A 'custom made' car.

The engine and the cars look very nice.

Does that steamer take extra smoke fluid given the extra chuff?

No extra smoke.  It's, probably, more 'sound' that an extra 'smoke' chuff.

The strange world of electronics and 'shorts'!

==========

My new Auto-reverser and ESU turbine sound decoder arrived.

The decoder is for the N&W Jawn Henry since I 'smoked' the previous decoder.

No repairs on the old decoder as I get on TCS decoders.

=====================

Trains were 'shorting' on the outside return loop.

I installed the new 'auto-reverser' and I got the same results.

I spend a good part of a day diagnosing (really guessing!) by trying different scenarios.

Quoting Einstein:

“If we knew what it is we were doing, it would not be called research. Would it?

1) I found that the other 2 return loops worked perfectly.

2) I removed all wires from the outer loop (the 'shorting' one) and connected wires from one of the inner loops (since those were operating OK) to the outer loop but still the same short.

3)  I found if I had an engine on the outer loop and backed out of the loop and then came back into it,  the 'auto reverser' worked fine?

4) I check all rails to insure both rails were insulated from the incoming track.

5) I ran some 'jumper' wires from the original 'lead' wires to the 'incoming' loop rail, thinking, maybe 'detection' current is being 'lost' but that didn't work.

6) Finally, I shortened the distance between the two rail gaps and that fixed the problem!

Not sure why as the middle track has a 2' gap between the two insulated rails plus the output rails (departing the loop) also have around 2' gaps between the two insulated rails.

The new 'reverser' didn't work so I re-installed the old 'reverser'.

I don't mind having an extra 'reverser' as I tend to 'hoard' stuff anyway.

I find 'cottage' industries tend to 'disappear' when you least 'expect it'.

I've got 'back up' boards for all my LCC signaling system plus an extra Walthers turntable.

These items are critical to the operation of my layout and, 10 or so years 'down the road', I don't want to have something become useless since a part is no longer available.

The instructions say a distance of 3/4" is needed between the 2 gaps in the rails.

It says nothing about being 'too long'.

I soldered a 'jumper wire' (red wire) on the old gap and cut another one about 6" next to the opposite rail's gap.

New gap this side about 6" from the opposite's rail gap.

The center track has about a 2' spacing between 'insulating gaps' and works fine.

The inner track is only about 6" apart.

The 'out going' tracks from the loops has around 2' spacing between 'gaps' and works fine.

Another 'mystery' in electronics!

Structures 'back in place'.

===============

Alan, a fellow railroader, came over to 'run some trains'.

B&O E-1 A-B passenger train.

video:

Hillyard:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s9JSAFrLIOo

Pictures running the passenger train 'back wards' to get the train 're-oriented'.

Yes, sometimes you just have to go with what works even if you can’t explain it