GRJ's Original DIY Constant Current PAX Car Lighting Module Files

Another fantastic educational and useful thread.

Thanks,

John

@Rod Stewart posted:

Hokie 71; this is a very neat idea IMO. I would have never thought of that! I have never had an issue with removing excess wires from the underfloor, nor do I disconnect anything from the trucks, but your idea should help to save time converting cars equipped with these light sockets. I like it!

If I remember correctly, first one I did was a full vista dome (your instructions inspired me ), I followed MTH disassembly instructions and they start with disconnecting the truck wires.  this did allow me to have an easier time fooling with the wires under the seats to make the connections these need.  Sadly, I did not get the idea to reuse a socket until the second regular car.

Since I like to locate the module either in the vestibule area, or a restroom, I would likely still put MF pigtails in the DC module-to-led strip wires, and hardwire the re-used light socket to the module AC pads. But that's just me, a personal preference thing.

I agree with preferring vestibules and restrooms but I ran into a few issues and starting using double sided foam tape to the ceiling. Pray it lasts as long as I am around.  It is amazing how it is not visible for regular viewing. Since the led strip and the power supply were both on the ceiling, I conserved my limited stash of JST pigtails. Now that I have more pigtails from your excellent kits, I may start adding them since it is a good idea.

Question: For the other original car lights, do you just clip their wires flush to the seat frame? Or?

I have been able to simply remove the other bulbs and leave the bases and the holders in place.  the led strips fit into a small gap between the clear plastic "bridge-holders" and the roof.  Bottom line is I don't touch any of the native wires.

Rod

Hokie 71; this is POSITIVELY BRILLIANT! I wish we would of had this conversation say about 20 sets of car conversions ago! I think you have probably just re-written the procedure book for doing a car conversion. I can hardly wait to do my next set just to try this out.

The part I especially like is there is no need to change the original wiring. That will sit well with the "purists", (though I certainly don't fit in that category heh heh!)

TAKE NOTE ALL YE WHO ASPIRE TO CONVERT PASSENGER CARS TO LED LIGHTING:

Hokie71's way of doing it looks like the fastest and easiest way to git 'er done! My hat's off.

Rod

So taking Hokie71's idea to the next logical step, I think it would be kinda neat to pre-make a batch of modules up with a converted bulb socket and say 4" pigtail solder to the AC inputs, and the female end of the JST 1.25 pigtails soldered to the DC outputs. You could also pre-soldering the male end of the JST pigtails to the led strip, and you're all set. This would pretty much eliminate having to solder anything in the car while doing a conversion, which is bound to save time in the end!

And I just happen to have a large box of car light sockets and bulbs sitting around under the bench, that I had no idea why I was keeping. Betcha can't guess where they came from??

Is this a great forum or what?

Rod

For those folks who may not be familiar with operation of the observation car marker led boards, attached is a summary of what  it does and how it to use it. Sorry I did not post this earlier!

Rod

Here just for reference is the Aug 2021 topic that deals with the care and feeding of the observation car marker led boards:

UPDATE: Making Observation Car Rear Marker LED Wiring a Little Easier!

Rod

I completed my first board and car.  I used Hokie 71’s light socket method on this RailKing car and the lights look great!  Many thanks John, Rod, Hokie 71!!!

Ordering from Digi-Key. They are out of the LM317TG. Which equivalent should I order?

One more Digi-Key sub, 200 ohm trim pot. they only have 12. what could substitute for that?

If DK have the LM317T (no G) that will work. If no stock at all they will often direct you to another site that stocks them. How many do you need? They are readily available on ebay from offshore but delivery is about 2 weeks.

regarding the the pots, what board rev are you using? If its the original R1.0 that will accept the 3362P top adjust, or the 3362S side adjust, or he 3296P end adjust precision pot.

Rod

I was going to order the latest rev of the board.

I sent you an email about kits. that may fix my problems.