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I finally broke down and bought a set of really good precision screwdrivers. Makes a big difference when removing/salvaging small screws.
Also, a good soldiering station is important.
A great place to purchase tools for our hobby.
For product advice or technical questions
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Good pin vise & a set or 2 of drill bits, good tweezers & some hemostats, that Dremel and the usual set of tools that goes with it + an extra pack of cut off disks, a decent soldering iron, hobby knives (set of blades) although I prefer scalpels, and some band-aids and adhesive tape.
Anthony,
As stated above Micro-mark, anything and everything you need
Alex
check out home depot on their Dremel prices i couldn't find anyone cheaper and they carry all the extras as well.
For starters, a comfortable, preferably permanent, workplace with excellent lighting. This will normally include a workbench, comfortable chair usually with wheels, tool storage, supplementary lighting, electrical outlets, etc.
Assorted containers for small parts (the typical ones have several racks of small plastic drawers) and a variety of larger containers to hold in-process projects and their component parts.
The hand tools are fairly obvious; but, it's easy to overdo the "buy them now" syndrome. It can be more practical to buy the tools as you need them or anticipate needing them for projects for which you are truly comitted, rather than buy a bunch of tools only to discover that you don't use them. So consider what you plan to model/build and buy accordingly.
By wary of that Weller Soldering Gun.
While it is great for soldering track, It is far too much heat for working on light wiring or inside engines or operating cars and accessories.
And a well organized workbench is a godsend.
Buy TWO cordless drills.... one with the drill bit you need, and the other with a phillips screw driver (or then you have a spare when you misplace the other)... most used tool on the layout...
My most used tools after maybe an X-acto is my home made tools.
They are costly but well worth it.
A package of loose alligator clips from Radio Shack or electronics store and a package of bamboo cooking skewer/spears....I find them at the grocery....they are about 1/8" diameter and 14" long.
I epoxy the clips onto the flat end of the skewer. I use them to hold small parts, to hold things to brush paint or spray,
For an investment of about $2 a great tool.
This is good information, I have several of the mentioned tools. When my brother passed a few years ago, while cleaning out his apartment, a few of the items mentioned above were found, never used, they are being used now.
Brent
Variety of adhesives
And don't forget Menards. Better prices and is supporting our hobby.
Art
Consider the dremel with the flexible shaft, very versatile.
Bill
For miniature screwdrivers, the standard is set by Wiha. Less expensive ones can be found, some of which are of good quality. Ace Hardware sells some that are pretty good if you can't afford Wiha's prices. If you can, Amazon is a good place to order a set.
Speaking of screwdrivers, #1 and #0 Pozidrive screwdrivers are a necessity for working on imported locomotives. Regular Phillips drivers will cam out of the slots and damage the screw heads. It is a little unclear whether the screws are actually Pozidrive or the very similar JIS, but the Pozi drivers work and are much easier to find than JIS. You can get Wiha Pozidrive screwdrivers from Amazon.
Get several assorted pair of tweezers. My favorite is a large, angle-headed pair with serrated jaws. You should also have at least one pair of cross-locking tweezers. Another absolute must is a pushbutton screw starter. Get the kind with three prongs that open wide.
Get a small soldering pencil. The one I use the most is only 12 watts. I also have a 40-watter for bigger jobs and a Weller soldering gun for track and other big jobs. A soldering station is great, but pricey.
Be cautious in ordering from Micro-Mark and comparison shop where you can. Most of their stuff is good, some of it isn't. Some of it is way overpriced. I remember buying one tool from them on sale for ten bucks and finding exactly the same thing at Ace for six (regular price). Their pin vises are junk, as are some other items I've gotten from them. I'm not saying stay away from them, they have a lot of really good stuff, just be aware that not everything is a good deal. Comparison shop, and buy on sale if you can.
And a good multimeter is indispensable.
Roger
PanaVise (many different models to choose from) and engine cradle if you plan to work on your trains. I go along with the others on the Wiha tools, I have several and they are all great tools. While I prefer the Wiha, as stated above, Ace hardware has a set of 6 precision screw drivers that are a pretty good set. I have a couple sets, nice, they are Ace brand and came in a little leather like zip up case.
Buy TWO cordless drills.... one with the drill bit you need, and the other with a phillips screw driver (or then you have a spare when you misplace the other)... most used tool on the layout...
This is particularly true if laying flex track. When I did a lot of GG flex, one drill was used for the countersunk hole, and the other was used to drive the screw to secure the track.
I recommend a cordless Dremel. Then you needn't drag a wire across the layout. For metal cutting, get the fiberglass reinforced discs. The others break too easily, although they do have a thinner kerf.
A multimeter is essential. One that can measure AC amps would be helpful, but they do cost more.
A package of loose alligator clips from Radio Shack or electronics store and a package of bamboo cooking skewer/spears....I find them at the grocery....they are about 1/8" diameter and 14" long. I epoxy the clips onto the flat end of the skewer. I use them to hold small parts, to hold things to brush paint or spray, For an investment of about $2 a great tool.
Have used the type with a screw which normally compresses the wire to hold onto the wood.
I concur with rtr12 on the PanaVise. You may think that it is too expensive. Just a few jobs, "making do" will change your mind.
Harbor Freight carries a micro set of vise grip style pliers. It's far better to have them when you find you do not have a set.
God Bless,
"Pappy"
Another tool I use is a good old allotment of Phillips screw drivers with a hardened magnetic tips. Great for repairs
"So far on my list I have a x-acto knife set, small clamps, and possibly a small air brush kit. I would like some more recommendations of what else I should invest in"
The tools I use most are exacto knife, small screw drivers, small drill bits,jeweler's files, sharp tweezers,fine Zona saw,scale rule and dial caliper,appropriate NMRA standards gauge, small needle nose pliers and side cutters, and a pencil type soldering iron. I also keep single edge razor blades and finger nail sanding boards handy. A calculator is also useful for determining scale dimensions of prototype items.For holding models under construction I like a swiveling Panavise,and I find an adjustable position bright work light a necessity.....DaveB
A good magnifier/light, also at Harbor Freight. use mine all the time.
Dan
Another oft-used tool is retractible screw holders. THey come in 5-prng and 2 double-prong models. They're great for inserting small screws, and hold them tighter than a magnetic screwdriver.
you probably already have these lying around, but a good pair of scissors. I bought a nice pair that are specifically for train projects and use them often (cutting open a package or doing a project).
Another really handy thing is one of the magnetic trays to put your screws into.
Dremel is number one!
I also tend to use my Miter Box and saw a lot building things.
A good pair of auto-adjust wire strippers, hot glue gun, soldering iron with adjustable temps, and the other stuff listed on this post so far!
I recommend a cordless Dremel. Then you needn't drag a wire across the layout. For metal cutting, get the fiberglass reinforced discs. The others break too easily, although they do have a thinner kerf.
A multimeter is essential. One that can measure AC amps would be helpful, but they do cost more.
Not to be contrary - but I was advised to get the corded version. I am happy I did. In fact, I am going to supplement my cordless drills with a corded version. It gives you the ability to work on longer projects without the attendant power loss and wait time for batteries to recharge. There are, of course, viable arguments for both options...
A bench vice is handy.
We had a recent discussion about hobby/craft clamps/clips.
Shop vac, air compressor, good extension cord and disk/bench sander pictured.
Garbage can, ban saw, better picture of the belt/disc sander.
Two sets of saw horses.
I recommend a cordless Dremel. Then you needn't drag a wire across the layout. For metal cutting, get the fiberglass reinforced discs. The others break too easily, although they do have a thinner kerf.
A multimeter is essential. One that can measure AC amps would be helpful, but they do cost more.
Not to be contrary - but I was advised to get the corded version. I am happy I did. In fact, I am going to supplement my cordless drills with a corded version. It gives you the ability to work on longer projects without the attendant power loss and wait time for batteries to recharge. There are, of course, viable arguments for both options...
I have big plans here. Planning on getting both a new corded and a cordless Dremel. The corded one will be for the bench with a flexible shaft attachment and the battery model will be used on the layout. I currently have an old corded model with the rotary on/off speed dial. If that will take the flex attachment (not sure it will) it may get used for the corded model.
Dremel has a new cordless model out for precision finger tip control that looks very nice, small and light weight. I think Ace hardware has it on sale for $79.99, normally $89.99.
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I vote for the corded Dremel tool. If you anticipate using a Dremel a lot on the layout, a cordless one might be a good addition, but when I use mine, 95% of the time it's at the bench. A corded tool has more power if you are doing a tough grinding or cutting job, and of course the battery never goes dead in the middle of the job.