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I thought I was having problems with my A.F. Challenger. When pulling the whistle slide all the way down and holding it there the engines whistle would break up. It would cut on and off over and over again, and then the would suddenly run radically fast. So I sent it to Lionel Service NC in Concord, NC. They found a harness had come loose from the motherboard ran it 2 hours without fail. Cost me $ 89.60. So I ran the Challenger again and two of my Heritage ES44AC Diesels and have the SAME PROBLEM! I bought my Legacy Command set in Feb., 2012. I up graded it to V1.5. The original rechargeable  batteries are getting weak and will only show one mark on the battery scale. I replaced them with AA batteries for now and thought that was the problem. I will get three new rechargeable batteries, and turned off the charging switch on the bottom of the base so I wouldn't fry the AA batteries. I also tried changing channels on the Command Base, that didn't help. This all started about a month ago.

Has anyone had this problem? Why would all three units act the same. I have a 8'X24' layout with inner and out loops and keep the track clean. Made sure they are programed to Legacy. I have feeders every 5' to 6' on both loops. I have one TPC 400, two 180 watt power supply. I guess I will call Lionel again and send my 990 Command set back to get it checked out.

 

 

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If I read your post correctly, the Challenger went back for repairs.  However, the handheld sounds like the real issue and particularly the whistle lever.  Do you happen to notice as your locomotive takes off what the throttle output LCDs show on the display?  If it is ramping up, or going to max, then the issue is in the handheld.  If it stays steady then check your connections on your base and track/transformer. 

It does show throttle output on the display when ramping up. On the bottom right side of the base the LED red light ( com ) flashes when sending commands. Push the slow speed on the pad and the diesel ( ES44AC ) will move then stop and blow the horn once and a while with diesel revved up with sound. Turn the thumb wheel up a little the diesel will move then headlights will flicker and horn will blow once. Diesel will sit still in slow speed. Slow speed shows on display. Move the thumb wheel a little and the diesel will move. I checked all my connections and they are tight. I don't know what else to do but to send the whole command set to Lionel service and let them check it out.

Originally Posted by efh:

I thought I was having problems with my A.F. Challenger. When pulling the whistle slide all the way down and holding it there the engines whistle would break up. It would cut on and off over and over again, and then the would suddenly run radically fast. So I sent it to Lionel Service NC in Concord, NC. They found a harness had come loose from the motherboard ran it 2 hours without fail. Cost me $ 89.60. So I ran the Challenger again and two of my Heritage ES44AC Diesels and have the SAME PROBLEM! I bought my Legacy Command set in Feb., 2012. I up graded it to V1.5. The original rechargeable  batteries are getting weak and will only show one mark on the battery scale. I replaced them with AA batteries for now and thought that was the problem. I will get three new rechargeable batteries, and turned off the charging switch on the bottom of the base so I wouldn't fry the AA batteries. I also tried changing channels on the Command Base, that didn't help. This all started about a month ago.

Has anyone had this problem? Why would all three units act the same. I have a 8'X24' layout with inner and out loops and keep the track clean. Made sure they are programed to Legacy. I have feeders every 5' to 6' on both loops. I have one TPC 400, two 180 watt power supply. I guess I will call Lionel again and send my 990 Command set back to get it checked out.

 

 

efh

I had a very similar problem with my Cab2, I contacted Lionel several time concerning this and was not able to resolve the problem. I say a similar problem because the sound was breaking up on TMCC engines with ERR boards, not only the bell and horn but even the engines sounds. After a time of frustration with this and Lionel not being able to help or solve the problem I replaced the Cab2 with Cab1L. The problems that I had with the sound cutting out are gone. The Cab1L has its own issues but I am living with these until "hopefully" Lionel can address these. The problem I have now is trying to build a train "lashup" and getting the head end engine horn and bell to work as it should, and the headlights to work as they should. 

Ray

Originally Posted by GGG:

Ray, what issues with CAB-1L.  I was thinking of getting one.  G

First I want to make it clear, I have the Cab1L system, Cab1L and Cab1L base. When I build a train using ERR boarded TMCC engines [do a lash-up] the headlights on the head engine do not light, the second issue is with the horn or whistle and the bell sounds, they are not available in the lash-up mode. I have been able to work around the light issue by programming both head and rear engines as the rear engine and changing the direction of the head engine. I have not been able to find a way around activating the horn or bell other than punching in the head engines number on the remote to blow the horn or ring the bell then entering the train number [I.D.# of the lash-up] to control speed and direction of the lash-up. It may well be if you add just the Cab1L to the 990 system that this will not occur, but I don't know. Maybe Jon from ERR can chime in on this. I should also note the ERR driver boards I am using are the Mini-Commander 2 boards.

Ray

Steims and Ray,

 

 I went over my hook ups and found that when I hooked up my TPC a few years ago the green and red wires on the end of the command base cable are very small gauge dia. wire that hook up to the TPC (COM) green wire and (DAT) red wire. The ends of the two wires did not have enough insulation stripped off when connected. I guess moving the TPC around must have pulled the wires a little loose and caused a bad connection. I stripped the two wires longer and put a little solder on ends and hooked them up. EVERYTHING WORKS FINE!    

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