I'm having a issue with my CC switches. I'm wanting to control two switches through one manual remote. My issue is, I've done this twice before and it's worked fine. What I did in the other two instances (and here too) is connect the wires from the terminals under each switch to one remote. However, when I do that here, it's not working correctly. When I attach the wires together one switch clacks like it trying to throw, the other one does nothing. Both switches are being powered on the accessory port set to 14v on a CW80. Any ideas? 

Last edited by Trainlover9943
Original Post

Are you combining a RH and LH switch with the same controller?

Yes. For a passing siding. One on each end. In the photo I'm showing a crossover but the idea is the same. Control two switches with one controller. Again, its worked fine twice before. I should add that I programmed them both to the same number in my legacy remote and they work fine there. However with the controller, not so much. 

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Here's my wiring. The side with two of each wire goes to each switch the side with one wire goes to the controller. Both switches are wired the same. 

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Images (2)

Here's my wiring. The side with two of each wire goes to each switch the side with one wire goes to the controller. Both switches are wired the same. 

I see two blue and two red wires on that side, but only one black and yellow ?

@Richie C. posted:

I see two blue and two red wires on that side, but only one black and yellow ?

My bad. I didn't need two blacks or yellow. The black is ground and the yellow is for the light on the controller. Regardless, it still doesn't work correctly. 

@Richie C. posted:

Have you tried a different controller ?

No but each switch works fine by itself (connected to the same controller I'm having this issue with) however when connecting the wires together is when my issue happen. 

I haven't tried wiring two CC switches together but the chattering behavior matches K-Line switches.  The switch controllers use DC polarity to light the correct LED and drive the switch motor.  RH and LH K-Line switches must use a matched controller.   You might have a similar situation where diodes provide a feedback loop causing the chatter on one switch and blocking the signal to the non-responding switch.

Your crossover uses two RH switches so you don't get the mismatch chatter.

Try using a SPDT momentary contact switch (without the lights) wired between the track ground and the insulated rails.

I haven't tried wiring two CC switches together but the chattering behavior matches K-Line switches.  The switch controllers use DC polarity to light the correct LED and drive the switch motor.  RH and LH K-Line switches must use a matched controller.   You might have a similar situation where diodes provide a feedback loop causing the chatter on one switch and blocking the signal to the non-responding switch.

Your crossover uses two RH switches so you don't get the mismatch chatter.

Try using a SPDT momentary contact switch (without the lights) wired between the track ground and the insulated rails.

I'll have to purchase a momentary switch as I don't have one. I'll buy one and give it a try. Any recommendations on one? 

I have miniature toggles bought years ago from Radio Shack, Jameco, AllElectronics, etc.  Amazon seems to label these as "car dash" items so you might be able to find one at an auto parts store.  A pair of momentary door bell buttons would also work.

Test that the approach works with alligator clip test leads first.

I have miniature toggles bought years ago from Radio Shack, Jameco, AllElectronics, etc.  Amazon seems to label these as "car dash" items so you might be able to find one at an auto parts store.  A pair of momentary door bell buttons would also work.

Test that the approach works with alligator clip test leads first.

Cool. If I use those toggles, I take it I can't use the lionel controllers? 

If the Lionel controller doesn't work, my guess is a different toggle won't either.  Here's a diagram of what's in the switch.

One comment, try removing one of the yellow wires, they're outputting +/- 5VDC, maybe that's where you're going wrong, that would be clashing in the switches.  I've wired two of these together in the past, and they worked fine.  I didn't wire both yellows to the switch, but the red/green/black are all paralleled.  You can also swap one switch green and red if you want one to be thru and the outer to be out for each path.

Last edited by gunrunnerjohn

If the Lionel controller doesn't work, my guess is a different toggle won't either.  Here's a diagram of what's in the switch.

One comment, try removing one of the yellow wires, they're outputting +/- 5VDC, maybe that's where you're going wrong, that would be clashing in the switches.  I've wired two of these together in the past, and they worked fine.  I didn't wire both yellows to the switch, but the red/green/black are all paralleled.  You can also swap one switch green and red if you want one to be thru and the outer to be out for each path.

I'll try reconnect everything and leave out the duplicate yellow wire and see if that works. For this passing siding. I'll want both to be set in the same direction. 

"try removing one of the yellow wires, they're outputting +/- 5VDC, maybe that's where you're going wrong, that would be clashing in the switches. "

Agree.  The circuit indicates the yellow provides +/- DC to illuminate the appropriate LED which is how the switch tells the controller its position.  Tying the yellows together is probably causing the problem.

"try removing one of the yellow wires, they're outputting +/- 5VDC, maybe that's where you're going wrong, that would be clashing in the switches. "

Agree.  The circuit indicates the yellow provides +/- DC to illuminate the appropriate LED which is how the switch tells the controller its position.  Tying the yellows together is probably causing the problem.

Still not working. Attached is a video and photo of the wiring 

Attachments

Images (1)
Videos (1)
20200519_213453

Hmmm...have you substituted one and then the other of those two switches with a spare switch?

@cjack posted:

Hmmm...have you substituted one and then the other of those two switches with a spare switch?

No. I really can't since I have all my other CC switches all wired in as pairs. I suppose I could if I absolutely had to. 

No. I really can't since I have all my other CC switches all wired in as pairs. I suppose I could if I absolutely had to. 

Understood...it might sort out the issue. It's like one is wired internally wired differently, or some such.

I can't answer that either. But doing something different sometimes uncovers an unthought of issue.

@cjack posted:

I can't answer that either. But doing something different sometimes uncovers an unthought of issue.

True. I might just have to forgo using both switches on one controller and just use two separate ones. which isn't a huge deal but it would've been nice. 

I ended up just using a separate remote for each switch. Eventually I'm going to add an AIU for MTH control of my switches. I take it I'll have to wire each switch to a separate port or could I use one like I'll do with my crossovers? 

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