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 I got a newer dash 8 (Gscale) that I can't get the body off. On closer inspection there's one special screw holding things up. It appears that it would need some special socket to remove this screw which has a protrusion sticking up? All the rest are regular Phillips heads. Since when did MTH ever use these? Maybe a dealer or Tech installed this screw/ post?

 The engine is going too fast and I need to inspect the flywheel inside a truck to see how the tach reader and tape are. This one caught me off guard.

 I thought I had a software issue (4.3) and it seems instead that four engines each have there own issue creeping up at the same time.

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If you google "security screw" and select the image results you will see the many types. You can find those tips or drivers with handles at the hardware store or the home store. A hardware store will be more helpful in trying to match it.

 

The backup is that you will have to order it online.

 

That definitely stinks. I guess they didn't want the average Engineer-Joe getting in there.

I had to remove discs that the grandkids jammed into a PS-3 game console about 7 months ago. I was faced with the same dilemma for a case screw.

 

Upon finding a youtube diy for the sony security screw the solution was simple. I used a thin blade screw driver that fit between the points of the hex and behind the pin. This is one of those hobby/jeweler type size. I was able to get enough torque to break it loose and get it out. This was after ordering the correct tip.

 

So, if its a torx or hex head socket type screw with a pin in the center, give that a try.

Screws that have the little post right in the middle, (usually Torx screws), are referred to as "Tamper-proof". You can buy special 1/4" bits that fit into magnetic screwdrivers or even use a 1/4" hex socket. You can get a complete set from size T10 up to T30 complete with a 1/4" magnetic socket at NAPA Auto Parts. Cheap!

 

BTW, there are other tamper-proof screws that require a "butter-fly" screwdriver. Also there are the "square-drive" type. Screwdrivers, sockets and bits are readily available.

Nope.

It must have been a screw that was stuck into the hole backwards. When you look down at the threaded end, that's what I saw sticking out. I put a Phillips down in the hole and it wouldn't turn. The screw was stuck so good that it resisted. It must have fell out when I inverted the engine after giving up.

  How it made it from the factory, to a dealer, sat on the shelf for four years, shipped to me, ran around the yard a dozen times, and still remained stuck in that hole,..........

Last edited by Engineer-Joe
Originally Posted by Mitch:

Screws that have the little post right in the middle, (usually Torx screws), are referred to as "Tamper-proof". You can buy special 1/4" bits that fit into magnetic screwdrivers or even use a 1/4" hex socket. You can get a complete set from size T10 up to T30 complete with a 1/4" magnetic socket at NAPA Auto Parts. Cheap!

 

BTW, there are other tamper-proof screws that require a "butter-fly" screwdriver. Also there are the "square-drive" type. Screwdrivers, sockets and bits are readily available.

The problem with most of these bit sets is they don't reach down the long holes in the transformers to get to these screws. 

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