That is one beautiful engine.
Rod
romiller
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That is one beautiful engine.
Rod
romiller
$1,289.99 | MTH 20-3529-1 BR 44 Era IIIb Steam Engine w/Proto-Sound 3.0 (Hi-Rail Wheels) DB |
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I believe you have the chuff rate set incorrectly in the video you posted. Something sure didn't look and sound right for a 3-cylinder steam locomotive.
The two wires coming from the base allow you to run the engine "in place." on the board.
Maybe. I assumed so, but I didn't buy if that and it would have been nice if they had provided instructions.
Lee,Please don't change the class number
Oh, I won't change the class #. But the road number I will change to BR549. Maybe it was just the way Junior Samples said it, but it was funny as the dickens . . .
Oh, I won't change the class #. But the road number I will change to BR549. Maybe it was just the way Junior Samples said it, but it was funny as the dickens . . .
During my days as a Sr System Analyst....BR549 was our 'inside' code for.......a computer problem caused by a person......but we called it something else.
Yes.....still funny to me too....
Just when I had put my Euro-madness behind me; I have the Chapelon Pacific, wanted the beautiful SNCF 4-8-2 (2-4-1), but resisted, and was intending to buy the DB 2-10-0 in plain gray, but just lost interest. It's novel, but, it's...irrelevant. Seeing yours, my desire is
somewhat re-kindled for the gray version. The red? No. (I do like the SAR Red Devil
4-8-4, strangely enough.)
But, I'll still pass, I guess. But your loco is very appealing.
Neolube to the rescue. the perfect paint for this because:
- It covers and makes it nearly black, metallic.
- It lubricates
- It conducts electricity
I put it on rollers at a level that was easy to work on and set the wheels to motion to paint them. Rotated the unpowered ones by hand, etc. Then, since it was easy to work on here, just left it while I painted everything else.
Here is the loco after one coat of Neolube over all the red. It shows signs of needing a second coat.
Here is the tender after three coats, one hour dry time between each. Looks great. I will do more on the loco tomorrow. This side took about an hour. Have not yet done the other side. Will probably use half a bottle on it.
I have to admit it.....it looks more 'real world' as if it was in use for a year or two......and like most you see in movies.
Still....you got more guts than I!
Neolube to the rescue. the perfect paint for this because:
- It covers and makes it nearly black, metallic.
- It lubricates
- It conducts electricity
So, what happened to the prototypically CORRECT red running gear?
Neolube to the rescue. the perfect paint for this because:
- It covers and makes it nearly black, metallic.
- It lubricates
- It conducts electricity
So, what happened to the prototypically CORRECT red running gear?
Not Lee......but since he is lettering it for his own US based RR....paint is the last worry!!!!
Neolube to the rescue. the perfect paint for this because:
- It covers and makes it nearly black, metallic.
- It lubricates
- It conducts electricity
So, what happened to the prototypically CORRECT red running gear?
Not Lee......but since he is lettering it for his own US based RR....paint is the last worry!!!!
Exactly. These are toys!! I'm having fun with mine, that is for sure. I'm going to remove the elephant ears, too. I think it will look more "decapod-ish," and industrial. it is a cool loco. the more I work on it, the more I like it.
Completed! Elephant ears removed. Neolube (three coats) over all the red. Relabeled it as of the CCB&GC railway.
And absolutely wonderful it is. This is just exactly what I wanted, a big, brawny decapod, a working locomotive, not a highly painted glamour queen. This is a spectacular toy locomotive, highly detailed, excellent runner, good and interesting chuffing sound, awesome whistle. It cost a lot, and it took four hours to make the changes, but it is all worth it. Just splendid!
Here are short videos. Running forward at about a scale 20 mph.
Reversing at about scale 15 mph.
Stationary: I noticed how fine - how much better than many others - the firebox glow flickering is on this loco. I tried to get that with this third video below. It varies from full to half intensity, never going out entirely like some, and when it flares up it lights up the whole cabin, and when it dims the cabin goes dark. That is cool!
Lee,
I think that is the best looking locomotive you own, except maybe for the ATSF Hudson and it is perfect for your layout radius.
Ron
Your a better man than I am Gunga Din. I could never make those changes to a new engine, but there again I don't have 1/3 the talent that you do. It looks great Lee.
Well I had my doubts when you mentioned about painting it all black. But looking at end results, and giving you credit for stepping outside the barriers, excellent. Love it, and can see were it would fit in, even in my layout and roster.
Great job Lee.
Neolube to the rescue. the perfect paint for this because:
- It covers and makes it nearly black, metallic.
- It lubricates
- It conducts electricity
So, what happened to the prototypically CORRECT red running gear?
All that matters is that Lee likes it, nothing else matters.
Just wish I could afford the engine the way it was built.
i think it really looks cool, nice job Lee.
Beautiful! Nice job Lee.
I had never heard of it, but I started trying to research it some because 1) I love dry lubes, but graphite is a mess. 2) I use 3 times as much black as anything, and like a graphite look 3) electrically conductive "paint"
I tried, but it didn't seem like info on it was easy to find.
How many coats did you apply with Neo lube? Right over the red?
Any idea what the difference is between neo #1 & #2?
I assume it doesn't turn your hands grey handling it dry.
Do other paints/decals adhere to it?
Re the whistle, many German locos had a deeper sounding whistle than French or British locos.
I had never heard of it, but I started trying to research it some because 1) I love dry lubes, but graphite is a mess. 2) I use 3 times as much black as anything, and like a graphite look 3) electrically conductive "paint"
I tried, but it didn't seem like info on it was easy to find. I GET MINE FROM MICROMARK
How many coats did you apply with Neo lube? Right over the red? THREE, AND IN A FEW PLACES, FOUR. ONE HOUR DRY TIME BETWEEN COATS, AT LEAST
Any idea what the difference is between neo #1 & #2? NO.
I assume it doesn't turn your hands grey handling it dry. NO, BUT IT TURNS YOUR HANDS BLACK HANDLING IT BLACK AND TAKES PAINT THINNER TO REMOVE.
Do other paints/decals adhere to it? NOT WELL IN MY EXPERIENCE.
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