Needing some tutorials on wall signage and other construction

Thanks Mr. Jerrman.

I think I’m gonna call it quits for tonight and sleep on what color to paint those fire escapes, roof vents and water tank. The only dark paints I have on hand is Grimy Black and UP Dark Grey. I was half tempted to just leave the roof stuff the color of the primer. All this stuff is pretty subjective to person to person I guess. I usually lay down a thick coat of acrylic black artist paint and sprinkle a mixture of fine black and grey ballast the tar and gravel roof tops.

I just got the escapes propped up on there for the picture. You think with a short rope hanging, it would be somewhat realistic? Eventually I will be ordering more plastics and can order a ladder then, but I do have a primed set of steps ready to glue and use. Lol

Till the next off nights roll around see you guys, thanks again to each of your help.

Kenny

Actually, I don't think you need or want the rope.  As I understand it, that style of fire escape is designed to drop from the weight of a person climbing down. They are deliberately kept out of reach to discourage people from climbing on them.

I think it looks great as it is.

--Pete

I use the Tichy Group Fire Excapes as well. Nice product, reasonable price.

I prime them, then paint them flat black. After drying, I "mist" them with with combinations of Tuscan, Red Lead and Roof Brown to get a rusty kind of look. You can also apply small amount of Baking Soda in areas where you want to give the appearance of deteriorating rust and paint over it. After applying those misted coats, I give it a little more flat black.

You want to streak some rust color down the side of the building where the supports are anchored in to the wall.

If you're going for a real run down, dilapidated look you can apply a flame to the under side causing the plastic to slightly bend. Got to be careful to get it just out of reach of the flame so it because pliable, but doesn't collapse.

Haha, Somehow I feel I better not press my luck at this point in the game. Sadly, I don't have any of those colors you mentioned. Grrrr, and I just ordered 5 new bottles for the next project. I think the only thing close to rust that I have on hand is some Model Masters burnt seinna. As for Polly Scale paints I have some red colors that are Special Oxide red, Boxcar red and D&RGW Frt car red which is almost the same color as the boxcar red. Something may could be done with those, but I have my doubts.

I do have a few coming in the next few days for my next project which one of them may work ok. 

    flof414134   1 Polly Scale Undercoat Light Gray 1 oz         

    flof414161   1 Polly Scale Pennsylvania Railroad Maroon 1 oz   

    flof414311   1 Polly Scale Earth 1 oz         

    flof414314   1 Polly Scale Mud 1 oz         

    flof414323   1 Polly Scale Rust 1 oz         

If those don't work, I guess this now gives me a new excuse to order some more paints, and perhaps some chalk up from Bragdon. You can never have too much right? lol

You guys have been invaluable with the mentorship you provide. It's the effort that you guys put in helping those of us new to the hobby that enables us to get the boost we need to keep it fun. I hope someday to be skilled enough to return the favor.

***Four hours past bedtime later***

Sleep is so over rated. Who needs it? Decided to go ahead and make a mess. Why not? lol I'll have to work on the rust and other bits on another day. Thanks again guys for your help today.

 Gnite folks,

Kenny

This is an awning that I made out of striped scrap-booking paper.

The bottom edge is cut with decorative scissors.

I agree with Pete. The fire escape looks great as is. No rope needed. In fact the whole building is taking on a terrific look as you progress. As far as the rust idea on the fire escapes, I generally do what Harry's does, spray black and then a light misting of rust. You don't need an airbrush, you can do it with spray cans. The Wal-Mart cans are good for this as the spray is very fine with little pigment. They have flat black, primer gray and primer rust colors. They're about $1.00 each. If you use this technique, when you spray the rust, do it from a distance of 12-18" so you get a very light mist.

Another trick is after the black sub-coat dries, use a fine spray bottle and mist with water. Then immediately spray with the rust. You'll get a random rust effect after it dries.

Harry's idea of the baking soda is great for a really textured rust effect. If you have any rust powder color, you can get a similar effect by lightly dipping your brush into some water, then into some rust powder, then apply by dabbing, not brushing it on places where   metal parts meet, like the railings and the stair supports. 

Great job so far, Kenny. 

Jerrman

My other paints came in a day or so ago, and now I think I will try to tackle putting some light rust on the walls below these fire escapes. I'm really unsure if I should use chalk here, or the paints, combination of paint mixes or chalk and paint. As you can see, I don't have the Bragdon weathering stuff. Wish I did though. If you guys think it would be best to get the right stuff from Bragdon, that's not a big deal either since I was going to try to place a order with them next week sometime anyway.

What product and technique would you guys suggest for adding rust to the walls? Harry mentioned streaking some rust down the sides of the walls, but I was unsure how to actually apply this product. A few drops of a wash, or to use a dry brush? I hate to goof this thing up now.

Kenny, with a hobby knife, just scrape off some chalk from the color you want on to a paper towel. Then apply lightly with a dry very soft brush (a rounded edge make-up brush works very well but a soft rounded paint brush is fine) to see how you like it. Apply vertically only. If you do, you can always apply more. 

The wet technique (dipping a brush into a little water then into the powder) is better for use on "metals" (like the fire escapes) to indicate rust that is peeling because it will create a textured rust effect. 

Jerrman

Well, unlike the risk in my job and technical diving where a slip up can easily cost a life, I always told myself I was going to approach this hobby with the idea that the worst thing a slip up would do is at most cost you a kit. However my same motto holds true that you can never rely on experience until shortly after you needed it.

Until 30 minutes ago, I'm not sure what was on the top five list of things never to do, but it's safe to say I've discovered a new # 1 and # 2 if there was ever any to begin with.

1. NEVER alow your inexpereinced hands to be within 5 feet of a paint brush with wet paint if your intent is to weather something.

2. NEVER say WTH, it can't get any worse....Wrong....See rule #1

I'm too embarrassed to even take a picture.

3. NEVER again!

Kenny! I am working on AmeriTown buildings as well but not yet to the stage of signage but your questions and the responses will be helpful when I get there as well. One question I had for you was where did you get the fire escape/landing and ladders etc? I'm looking at adding some exterior features like those and possibly spouting as well.

Nice job on your building. I've just completed about 12 of them but without signage.I use Gorilla Super Glue (Impact-Tough formula) in small bottle. Works well and bonds in no time. Should work well for your experior ladders etc without making any holes in the bricks. Bought at WalMart

Look on DownTown Deco's web site http://www.downtowndeco.biz/site/  and it will tell you how. Don

I followed the advice above and it seemed to work great. The first sign I did, I kinda goofed it up, but the second went on ok. I should have sanded it down a bit thinner, and next time I will try to do so. I just used regular white glue smeared on with a Q-tip and pressed into the brick using a sammage bag as directed above. Just make sure you be careful moving your finger from side to side. I tried to ham fist mine in and it tore on me.

I took a bunch of pictures along the way. I take them not necessarily for show and tell stuff, but to help me along the way and after the project is completed to see how I can improve my skills. It’s also nice at night when I’m at work to mull over the images to see what maybe I can do differently. You may wish to take a peek here for a look at some pictures. Boring stuff to anyone but train lovers. Lol They do make it easier when discussing things on the forums as I can readily show someone what I’m talking about.This is only my 4th structure ever to build, so I'm not even out of the crib yet with learning proper techniques. The pictures for this building is at the end of the gallery. Please don't laugh to hard when you see the screwed up results of some of them. Lol

As for the stuff on the green building, I found those items at Valley Model Trains. They have quite a few suppliers on their site. I can’t comment on price comparability as I’m still too new into the hobby to know good prices from bad.

Below are the items and numbers for them. All are under the O scale category.

Roof Vents for industrial buildings:   Rix Products          620-610          7.15

Rooftop water tank with stand:        Buildings Unlimited         92-37          5.95

Fire Escapes:         Tichy Train Group       293-2043          4.95         

Fire Plugs for buildings:          Berkshire Valley          165-515          4.00

Hope these help.

Kenny

Kenny:

You can undo or cover up just about anything.

Seriously, this is how you get the hang of this stuff.

Well, I have no idea how bad it is (although weathering on bricks should be done dry so you can do it lightly and then gradually darker), but no worries. Whatever you did, you can fix it. If it's paint that "ruined" the weathering technique, just let it dry and than reapply your original base green color. Should hide whatever you don't like. After that, use the dry chalk technique and you'll be on your way again. Good luck!

Jerrman

Tis is true, and now looking back at it as I was running to the kitchen sink to wash it off......Yeah, I actually tried. lol

Trystan was on my heals asking..Did you mess it up Unckle Kenny, did you? Huh? What did you do, let me see, can I try?..........All the time I was trying not to say things a three year old needs to hear.

Oh well, I know better next time. Lol

Kenny