Powering about 20 Lionelville Buildings

There may be better and more sophisticated ways to provide power to your buildings with lights, but I would use a small transformer as the power source and Atlas Connectors.

The Atlas Connectors give you the option of turning on the lights of some of the buildings and keeping the lights off for others.

I did this recently for 4 light towers and the light for an O Scale house on my new Field of Dreams. I will post photos of it later. Arnold

Here’s a photo of my Field of Dreams:

Well, whether grain of wheat or LED, the total draw should not be excessive, so assuming they are all designed for track/accessory voltage (12-15 volts AC or DC), I'd probably dig out a spare small, single train set transformer and use it to power terminal blocks (two or three, or more if desired) positioned behind or underneath the shelf, using 16-18 gauge wire to feed them. Just about any small wire (22-28 AWG) would do to run from the terminal blocks to each of the accessories. A power line switch for the transformer will allow you to light or turn off all the accessories as a group. Easy-peasy!

Arnold, I'll look into the Atlas connectors.  That might be doable.

Steve, I can't run anything under the shelf as it is solid block.  I'll have to run some sort of wire behind the buildings and along the wall and tap into them somehow, perhaps with the Atlas connectors.  I have PLENTY of transformers around, including six extra ZWs.  However, I think either an LW or something like that to tap for the lights and power the trolley I want to put in might work well.

Thanks for the ideas.

@lionelflyer posted:

Steve, I can't run anything under the shelf as it is solid block.  I'll have to run some sort of wire behind the buildings and along the wall and tap into them somehow, perhaps with the Atlas connectors.  I have PLENTY of transformers around, including six extra ZWs.  However, I think either an LW or something like that to tap for the lights and power the trolley I want to put in might work well.

If you want to keep it all neat, perhaps you can use a wire channel and a strip of wood (1X 3, or even a strip of plywood) to hold the wire channel and mount terminal blocks every six feet or so behind the buildings. That way, the longest wire run to the buildings would be three feet or less. A ZW is definitely overkill for this load (I'd favor a small transformer with just one throttle and an accessory tap), but whatever is convenient and at hand . . . In any event, good luck!

@Arnold D. Cribari posted:

Here’s a photo of my Field of Dreams:

You really captured that scene, Arnold. Lighting and every detail is perfect.

Check out self stripping  'T Tap' power connectors.  A pair of 12/14 volt feeders, maybe #14 or #16 wire,  behind your buildings with tapping off to feed each.  I would also think of using just a step down transformer in the 12 volt range and not tie up a whole Lionel transformer unless you have some just sitting around.  To lengthen lamp life, put a rectifier of proper amp capacity in one of the feeders.

I would prefer to have no wires showing if possible as you have a nice display going on there. I would double up the shelf the buildings are on but before putting them on router two "trenches" the complete length.  Stretch one cable in each and hold in place with hot glue here and there.  Mark where your buildings are and drill through a small hole - one for plus and one for minus.  Solder onto the buss wire the feeder leads and then flip the board over and secure it.  The only thing showing would be two wires at each building that would come up under the building and there you have it. Connect power at one end and you can add connectors if you want at each house so you can remove it for any service.

Can you route a channel   and put the wire in that?

"Can you route a channel   and put the wire in that? "       I don't see why not.  You can cut as wide and as deep as you want.

Unfortunately there is no way to build a channel.  The picture doesn't show it well, but the kneewall is completely finished with bamboo flooring material and cove molding.

I like the idea of the T taps.  I found some that are "double taps" so you can pull both circuits at the same time.  I think I can get prewired Molex connectors to attach to the cable and attach the other side to the wires coming from the buildings.  That would allow me a quick disconnect if I want to move them.

I have plenty of smaller transformers to power the buildings and the trolley track.  A ZW would be way to much power.  I should have an LW and numerous 1033s and RWs.

Thanks for the ideas.  I'm glad I asked.  That is what makes this forum so helpful.