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I've just started a new layout and decided to use Gargraves sectional track and Ross Custom Switches for the first time. When connecting three O-72 sections of track (which should make a 90 degree curve), it appears that the three pieces result in a little more than 90 degrees. If the ends are forced to be 90 degrees, there are kinks at each of the joints. Is this anything others have encountered? Is there an easy fix? Do I have to cut one of the sections to get to 90 degrees? I'm a little disappointed right now, but I suppose it could be operator error.

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My understanding is that GarGraves forms the track to the proper radius, then cuts it to length.  If so, they may have mis-cut a section or more to the proper 30 degree segments.  If so, then you will need to cut at least one section to make a full 90 degree curve as required.

I have formed and cut some GarGraves track on my own.  Although maybe mildly disappointing on your end, it really is great looking track.  I'd go ahead and fix it on your own if I were you, and keep on laying track. 

rgreeney posted:

I've just started a new layout and decided to use Gargraves sectional track and Ross Custom Switches for the first time. When connecting three O-72 sections of track (which should make a 90 degree curve), it appears that the three pieces result in a little more than 90 degrees. If the ends are forced to be 90 degrees, there are kinks at each of the joints. Is this anything others have encountered? Is there an easy fix? Do I have to cut one of the sections to get to 90 degrees? I'm a little disappointed right now, but I suppose it could be operator error.

This is just a thought and I don't know if it would work. Don't cut the "90 degree" sections of track but introduce a slight bend or flex into the adjacent straight track sections to align them as necessary. You might then be able to avoid any cutting.

MELGAR

rgreeney posted:

I've just started a new layout and decided to use Gargraves sectional track and Ross Custom Switches for the first time. When connecting three O-72 sections of track (which should make a 90 degree curve), it appears that the three pieces result in a little more than 90 degrees. If the ends are forced to be 90 degrees, there are kinks at each of the joints. Is this anything others have encountered? Is there an easy fix? Do I have to cut one of the sections to get to 90 degrees? I'm a little disappointed right now, but I suppose it could be operator error.

Junk

Just converted the subway modules to stand alone with new O42 & O54 fixed plastic tie GG curves. Curves were not all true along with gaps and incorrect curve spots. I see they still have that old dipity - doo issue between joints as well. Plus you have to use screws to hold them down. At least they will be inside the tunnels. Quick n cheap tin track for the rookies I guess. Just needed something quick for the Grandkids to use. Obsolete by todays standards.

Thought my eye glasses were distorting the rails, 1/2 circles on each end but that was not the case.

Last edited by SIRT

I have used the 089 with wood ties. Putting them together, I noticed a slight variation in the arc struck by multiple sections that you are experiencing. I push the sections together as best as possible with hand pressure so I do have a small gap in the joint caused by the shape of the pin. I tried to allow small adjustments at each joint , aligning visually and tending toward a larger radius in the final alignment. interesting that two  minor aadjustment at joints could move the position of the rails at the 90 degree point by about  a half inch in my case. You can recover the angle also if your using flex sections by putting a little bend into the flex section. 

Before fixing  the track to the roadbed and table, I rolled some test cars around the curves to see that there were no problematic kinks in the joints. I do have the click sound as a joint is crossed . I noticed that the MTH railking N5c caboose is a pretty good car to pick up kinks . You can see the knuckle stray from over the third rail center line as you push the car around. This helps in your final alignment. adjustments .

Bottom line is that its not perfect but with a little fiddling and tweaking  you can get it to run pretty smoothly . 

The other thing to remember is that this track can expand and contract with climate changes so  the alignment might change a bit from when you first install it. I had one problem like that that caused a tracking problem on an 063 curve that I had formed with flex track. Believe it or not , it was a Williams GP-9 that derailed at the joint and not a Lionelor MTH 4-8-4 .

Try setting out your curves as best you can , tweak the joints at the curves and see how how a train of several cars rolls on it , either by hand or apply some power. Attach the track when your satisfied with the positions of the curve.  

some photos of a curve made from 089 sectional track. the curve is smooth . the cars are the Atlas California Zephyr cars . Hope this helps

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Last edited by LIRR Steamer

I was formerly a Gar Graves retailer. One of my clients on the west coast had a similar problem. I contacted Gar Graves. Mike talked to my client, recognized the problem as a small quality control error on Gar Graves' part and replaced the faulty curves with new ones that were the correct diameter. Mike and Tom at Gar Graves are great and very oriented toward customer service.

Bob Shaw posted:

According to a chart in the Gargraves website, the actual diameter of 072 sectional track with wood ties is 74.42". You may have some problems if you try to fit your track to an exact 72" curve.

That's the plastic ties, Bob.  Here is a link to the chart from GarGraves' website that should clear matters up.  Notice that both plastic ties and wood ties are listed, and there is a difference between the two.

http://www.gargraves.com/files...onal%20specs-web.pdf

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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