Cheap benchwork/construction ideas for new layout?

L-girder benchwork has been the standard in model railroading for 60 years.  Get the Linn Westcott book; Kalmbach also covers the techniques in various layout-building books.

L-girder is inexpensive, lightweight, simple to build, makes economical use of materials, and very sturdy.  Top it off with 3/8" or 1/2" plywood or OSB (3/4" is overkill), and homasote if you desire.

In your situation, it can be easily disassembled and the components can be reused / reconfigured over and over.   

Here's a thread with a master class on using L-girder:  https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...ction-2-28-18?page=9

If it gets humid/moist down there you would need a dehumidifier... that's probably the first question.  Take some relative humidity readings... report back, and folks will be better able to let you know how to proceed in keeping it budget friendly.

@Mallard4468 posted:

L-girder benchwork has been the standard in model railroading for 60 years.  Get the Linn Westcott book; Kalmbach also covers the techniques in various layout-building books.

L-girder is inexpensive, lightweight, simple to build, makes economical use of materials, and very sturdy.  Top it off with 3/8" or 1/2" plywood or OSB (3/4" is overkill), and homasote if you desire.

In your situation, it can be easily disassembled and the components can be reused / reconfigured over and over.   

Here's a thread with a master class on using L-girder:  https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...ction-2-28-18?page=9

Thanks! The reusability is a great point, especially since I'm prone to changing my mind on layout designs LOL! I just saw a new youtube released where the modeller used 2x4's topped by 1/2" OSB and 1/2" foam board. 2x4's seem like overkill but maybe an L-girder with OSB+foam board top would work.

@Dennis-LaRock posted:

If it gets humid/moist down there you would need a dehumidifier... that's probably the first question.  Take some relative humidity readings... report back, and folks will be better able to let you know how to proceed in keeping it budget friendly.

Thanks -- I think I'll be OK as we have a new furnace+AC unit that runs constantly and recycle the basement air quite well, but I'll monitor the humidity anyway.

I found 2"x3"s an affordable choice and you now have a frame which will support you should you have to climb on to do scenery, etc,

Make the layout sections so it can be un-assembled and moved.  My layout was two 5 1/2 ft x 6 1/4 ft and later one more 7 /12 ft x 4.5 ft and moved 6 times in mattress boxes.  The layout is now 44 years old, following the"build it once only" policy.

Others ideas for construction are good.  I would use used lumber or straight No2 as it is mostly not seen and no need to over kill with bought name brand layout kits.  I used 1 x 6 frame as it was recessed 1 inch and on the floor much of the time and 3/4 inch particle board (only available at the time and location, Jamaica) was used and the 1/2 inch later.  It had wooden wheels on the edges and corners to allow it to be handled by one person.

Charlie

@Garfield Irwin posted:

Thanks! The reusability is a great point, especially since I'm prone to changing my mind on layout designs LOL! I just saw a new youtube released where the modeller used 2x4's topped by 1/2" OSB and 1/2" foam board. 2x4's seem like overkill but maybe an L-girder with OSB+foam board top would work.

2x4s are overkill.  Covering with foam board can help for scenery, but it makes attaching the track more challenging and it doesn't reduce noise.  If noise is a concern, homasote should go on top of the decking.

Hi Garfield,

I purchased my benchwork from forum sponsor Mianne Benchwork.  Tim Foley is a great resource to the model railroading community.  He uses top quality materials, and everything is modular so disassembling and shipping my layout across the country was a breeze.  Tim helped me redesign a new larger layout for the new house making sure that all of the original components were reused.  It's stable, level, and attractive.  The downside...Mianne benchwork is not inexpensive.  But you know what they say:

Cheap benchwork isn't good; Good benchwork isn't cheap.

John

If you have a tablesaw, you can often save money by ripping larger pieces into the sizes needed. Instead of buying 1x2 and 1x4 to make L-girders, you may be able to rip the needed sizes from wider stock. My layout has 2x2 legs ripped from 2x4 studs. I used 8' studs to create 2x2x4' legs. In retrospect, I would have been better off buying 10' boards and raising the layout more. OSB is cheaper than plywood and as good or better in my experience--I have both on my layout in different places. I haven't tried foam, but I'm a huge Homasote fan. You could soak that stuff in water for 24 hours and still not have a problem with it, and it makes a big difference in quietness compared to wood. Very compatible with "water soluble" scenery methods.

Solid benchwork is vital to subsequent operational reliability. Many materials will work, but your construction needs to ensure no sudden vertical curves, and that seasonal expansion and contraction do not warp your track work.

I used 'Faced Sound Board' it has the same fiber composition as homasote and is 1/3rd the cost of homasote.  The 'faced' is water repellent on all sides, homasote is not unless you seal it.  It was 11.98 at Lowes 3 years ago... probably, around 15 or 16 for a 4 x 8 sheet now.

While I agree that 2 x 4 is overkill for bench construction, there also is no harm in it.  Because 2 x 4 is so widely used for construction it is cheaper in some places than a 1 x 4.  Whatever you use, watch out for twisted, cupped, warped. etc material which will make construction difficult.

@Mallard4468 posted:

2x4s are overkill.  Covering with foam board can help for scenery, but it makes attaching the track more challenging and it doesn't reduce noise.  If noise is a concern, homasote should go on top of the decking.

Tend to agree about the 2x4's being overkill, but my take is "seconds" can be relatively inexpensive whereas prime dimensional lumber is still quite expensive -- and you need more of it for the strength. The 1x3's suggested above might be a good compromise.

Yes, I'm not sure what to think about the foam board -- 1/2" doesn't really doesn't provide much in the way of landscaping potential and my experience is that it does not deaden sound like you said. I wish homasote wasn't so expensive.

@CA John posted:

Hi Garfield,

I purchased my benchwork from forum sponsor Mianne Benchwork.  Tim Foley is a great resource to the model railroading community.  He uses top quality materials, and everything is modular so disassembling and shipping my layout across the country was a breeze.  Tim helped me redesign a new larger layout for the new house making sure that all of the original components were reused.  It's stable, level, and attractive.  The downside...Mianne benchwork is not inexpensive.  But you know what they say:

Cheap benchwork isn't good; Good benchwork isn't cheap.

John

Thanks but I don't think that's practical as I'm in Canada -- even if they would ship the shipping and import fees would be brutal.

@Ken Wing posted:

If you have a tablesaw, you can often save money by ripping larger pieces into the sizes needed. Instead of buying 1x2 and 1x4 to make L-girders, you may be able to rip the needed sizes from wider stock. My layout has 2x2 legs ripped from 2x4 studs. I used 8' studs to create 2x2x4' legs. In retrospect, I would have been better off buying 10' boards and raising the layout more. OSB is cheaper than plywood and as good or better in my experience--I have both on my layout in different places. I haven't tried foam, but I'm a huge Homasote fan. You could soak that stuff in water for 24 hours and still not have a problem with it, and it makes a big difference in quietness compared to wood. Very compatible with "water soluble" scenery methods.

Solid benchwork is vital to subsequent operational reliability. Many materials will work, but your construction needs to ensure no sudden vertical curves, and that seasonal expansion and contraction do not warp your track work.

Some excellent suggestions here Ken -- thank you!

@Dennis-LaRock posted:

I used 'Faced Sound Board' it has the same fiber composition as homasote and is 1/3rd the cost of homasote.  The 'faced' is water repellent on all sides, homasote is not unless you seal it.  It was 11.98 at Lowes 3 years ago... probably, around 15 or 16 for a 4 x 8 sheet now.

I'll definitely look into the sound board option - thanks Dennis!

Here's What the Faced Sound Board looks like... untouched.   I did not screw it to the plywood substrate.  The track is screwed into the Sound Board... the screws do not go into the plywood.  If I turn the sound down on the trains it is dead quiet... I can run 6 consists and have a conversation with someone.  https://rumble.com/vx7hb3-o-gu...layout-decibels.html

@Dennis-LaRock posted:

I used 'Faced Sound Board' it has the same fiber composition as homasote and is 1/3rd the cost of homasote.  The 'faced' is water repellent on all sides, homasote is not unless you seal it.  It was 11.98 at Lowes 3 years ago... probably, around 15 or 16 for a 4 x 8 sheet now.

It's twice that price and Out Of Stock.  In fact pretty much every time alternatives are posted on this forum they aren't any cheaper and are usually not available.  It may be regional, but at least in the Northeast many of these alternatives never seem to be in stock and certainly not any cheaper.

John

@Garfield Irwin posted:

Tend to agree about the 2x4's being overkill, but my take is "seconds" can be relatively inexpensive whereas prime dimensional lumber is still quite expensive -- and you need more of it for the strength. The 1x3's suggested above might be a good compromise.

Yes, I'm not sure what to think about the foam board -- 1/2" doesn't really doesn't provide much in the way of landscaping potential and my experience is that it does not deaden sound like you said. I wish homasote wasn't so expensive.

2x4s can be ripped in half for legs.  I don't know what "seconds" look like at your lumber supplier, but straight 2x4s are hard to find in the midwest.  The main consideration with any wood that you use is to find stuff that is straight, without bows, twists, or too many knots.  The post about ripping 3/4" plywood to create dimensional pieces is a good idea - plywood is strong and stable.  Just need to compare the cost and effort to buying straight dimensional lumber.

Most folks who use foam board use 2" thickness, but it still doesn't offer much regarding sound deadening.  One option is to use cork roadbed, but unless you glue the track down, nails or screws will go into the plywood. 

With the price of "decent" (and that's a stretch) lumber going through the roof, I have abandoned building legwork.  I'm now using adjustable  height folding tables made by Lifetime.  $40 at my Costco for a 2ft x 4ft table.    Lay the deck on top of the tables and the layout is ready.

My layouts are seasonal so they are pulled apart and the decks stacked until the next season.  I've transitioned from ply decks to 1-1/2" rigid foam which is edged with 1x2s for additional stiffness.  The foam decks can span gaps between tables.

@Dennis-LaRock posted:

John,

You should be able to 'order it' from Lowes?   I used homasote for the layout when I lived in NYC 20 years ago.  I'm in New Orleans now... and I see we've gone from 11.98 to 19.98 in 3 years...wish I could get a little of the huge pile of free money that's been handed out in recent times.

https://www.lowes.com/pl/Sound...efinement=4294523945

R-1.5, 0.5-in x 4-ft x 8-ft Faced Fiberboard Board Insulation with Sound Barrier

^$19^.98

I'm having trouble locating homasote here in Canada -- none of the major retailers carry it, but there's a similar product called "natural fiberboard" that needs to be special ordered -- unknown cost.

One retailer suggested Sonopan, which comes in 3/4" 4x8 sheets that runs around $30 CAD per sheet.

https://www.homedepot.ca/produ...nch-thick/1000441119

The only issue with this is fastening down the track, but all I need to do is temporarily "pin" it -- once ballasted the track and roadbed doesn't go anywhere.

@Tracker John posted:

With the price of "decent" (and that's a stretch) lumber going through the roof, I have abandoned building legwork.  I'm now using adjustable  height folding tables made by Lifetime.  $40 at my Costco for a 2ft x 4ft table.    Lay the deck on top of the tables and the layout is ready.

My layouts are seasonal so they are pulled apart and the decks stacked until the next season.  I've transitioned from ply decks to 1-1/2" rigid foam which is edged with 1x2s for additional stiffness.  The foam decks can span gaps between tables.

Funny you mention the Costo tables. I use them for building/modeling/painting in my basement workshop and briefly considered them too but the legs aren't very stable and wiring would be a big issue.

I haven't had issues with table leg stability, but I'm not walking on the tops.

Because my seasonal layouts are "Carpet Central" approaches, surface wiring (or hidden under carpet/snow batting) is the norm.  My track feeds are long enough to drop to the floor if a power buss is appropriate.

Not a pro as this is my first layout that I have been working on for 2.5 years now.   But I'll give some food for thought... I went with 2x4 construction traditional frame (16" centers and all that) with high grade 1/2 plywood on top for level and a good working surface.   I put most of it together with 1.5-2" screws I had around the house, and the legs are attached with lag bolts, should I ever need to disassemble the 15x17 monster.   Then I glued Homasote on top.   Where I needed/wanted elevation changes, the 2" pink foam board comes in.   I can reach 90% of my layout without getting on top.  The HS is on top of the foam so as to hold track screws as it does very well.  So you'll have to plan the elevations changes on the front end.   But, I will say, I have still found myself up there dozens of times over the last 2 years working on "stuff."   I am glad I built it this way.   I never worry about getting up top, strength, or any of that.   It is a relief, by buddy is 240 and gets cup there to help too.  I'm 195.  The homasote works and is quieter, but it's up to you how important that is.   No regrets from me, you'll only build the frame/tables once (theoretically) so to me, I felt I didn't care if I spent a little more on the front end for a rock solid foundation.  Good luck.

I went to Lowe’s (se, Mi) today  to look for alternatives to Homasote.  Sound brace has been mentioned on this thread , but they did not have a product named this.  When I asked a guy about it, he steered me to a  coated sound absorbing panel.  I am not clear about the product name, but the Lowes item number is 15384.  It is a less dense version of Homasote, consequently weighs less (may not hold screws as well).  It was coated somehow in Black.  The surface was somewhat like Homasote in appearance. 4x8  ½”  Weight for 4x8 = 21.7 lbs (I think).  $22.26 for a 4x8.  Looks promising.  Anyone know more?

Bill

I don't know that product, but remember: many scenery methods involve a lot of water. Homasote will soak up water, but won't warp, expand, or contract because of changes in water. Any substitute product either must have similar water resilience, or the owner must use scenery methods that don't use a lot of water. I have not heard this characteristic addressed in the alternates offered (I know Homasote is not available to the OP, but I this discussion has broader interest to others who have a choice).