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This week it was one step forward and half a step back. 

 

After waiting a full week as I said I would, this morning I masked everything with 3M  blue painters tape (2+ hours) and shot the yellow on (3 minutes) and removed the masking while the yellow was still wet as I always do (10 minutes).  

 

The tender was a disaster: the yellow went on well, but the masking tape pulled big chunks of the red paint right off when I removed it, despite my taking care and using a light touch with the painters tape: Rustoleum double gloss red does not stick well to Rustoleum metallic silver.  Anyway, I will let the yellow harden for a week and then red-spray the red on the tenderusing a non-stick stencil technique for the masking - easy when it's just a straight line.  No big problem, just annoying.

 

The loco came out well.  A small amount of red over the drivers was pulled off with the masking tape but I can flow on a glossy match to color and sheen by brush.  There are several other minor touchups, but I am pleased with the look.  I will do that next weekend and then apply the single black line (between red and yellow) with pinstripe tape, then neolube drivers and rods and pilot trucks, etc.

 

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Lee...

 

Ouch!!!   Been there....done that!

 

Of course, what I learned then was that you should ALWAYS pull the masking tape off along itself, parallel to the painted surface.  Pulling the tape perpendicular to the painted surface is asking for trouble....which is what I asked for!!

 

If you pulled the tape properly, I can't imagine why the paint pulled so severely.  I wouldn't have waited any longer between coats than you did.  And I certainly would've expected better from Rustoleum on Rustoleum.

 

That said, have you tried/considered the green 'Frog' tape??  It is much less tacky than the blue.  It has a crisp, well-sealing edge, too.  Our paint store put me onto it when I redid a bathroom.  I needed to put tape on some painted door, cove, chair, window moldings.  He recommended the Frog tape.  It worked very well, indeed.  I still use the blue stuff on most work.  But I guess I'd try the green stuff on my next pre-painted model.

 

FWIW....  

 

You'll recover, I'm sure.  BTW, thanks for sharing the boo-boos as well as the successes! 

 

Commiseration...it's a good thing!

 

KD

 

 

Last edited by dkdkrd

Do you ever scuff or do a light sanding of the paint before painting a new color on top?  When I building park trains for a living, I know our painter would shoot the base color (silver for you) and then when he went to paint the next color (the red) he would do a very fine sanding of the base that was getting covered by the 2nd color.  This allows the 2nd paint to adhere to the base paint.

Lee....

 

FWIW...  Just received the new issue (2nd Qtr 2014) of the Santa Fe Railwy Historical and Modeling Society (SFRHMS) publication, The Warbonnet.  They have a major featured article on the ATSF's excursion into articulated steam mallet's in the early 1900's.  It's an excellent article. 

 

It also has a discussion/drawings in some detail regarding the flexible boilers that were tried.  All in all, as has been well understood for some time, the whole articulated 'thing' for the Fe was a motive power era best forgotten rather than celebrated.

 

There's no mention in the article about the dream machine you're building.  But they do mention a more conventional articulated that made it as far as the preliminary drawing board...a 2-8-10-2!...and a  proposal, only, from Baldwin for it's own version of a 'Big Boy' 4-8-8-4 for the Fe.  Nothing progressed very far....articulateds were not at all lovable on the route of the Chief by then. 

 

Anyhow, thought you might like to know.....in case you're not a member....but maybe, then, you should be??

 

KD

 

 

Last edited by dkdkrd
Originally Posted by sinclair:

Do you ever scuff or do a light sanding of the paint before painting a new color on top?  When I building park trains for a living, I know our painter would shoot the base color (silver for you) and then when he went to paint the next color (the red) he would do a very fine sanding of the base that was getting covered by the 2nd color.  This allows the 2nd paint to adhere to the base paint.

Yeah, I sand it ad I wonder if it would have done better without.  Anyway, I'll fix it in a few days. 

 

dkdkrd - I was unaware of that, I will have to join, of course!

 

Lee,

 

I keep looking at that  2-8-8-8-8-8-2 monster, and the only way I can see for it to actually work would be essentially a double Mallet configuration for the locomotive portion. The boiler would be mounted rigidley to the center wheel set, with a Bissell truck with a bearing plate under the cab area on either side.

 

Considering real life track conditions at the time, I think vertical and horizontal motions would have caused that center joint to self destruct if Baldwin had actually built the thing that way.

 

 

dkdkrd - I've been feeling guilty about not posting anything on it -- nearly as guilty as I feel for not working on it.  I am trying to get my book on 'Streets out and it is eating up my entire life, taking all my spare time.

 

Here is the 6-4-4-4.  I repainted the tender and touched up the red last week and it has dried nearly a week now.  I will apply the black pinstripe this weekend, I hope.  It runs well and pulls a ton of cars: at least 30.  I ran into a problem on 72" curves and have to do some machining of the front truck attachment before I can run it, but it is getting there.  

 

Len - I'm not sure about the 2-8-8-8-8-8-2.  I'm not giving up, I know how to hinge the boilers, with, literally, a hinge, so it can swivel but is held rigid otherwise.  Frankly i had to move that project to a very back burner for now.  But I am committed to finishing it.  You have a point about they arrangement - seems like what to try next.  

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Last edited by Lee Willis

Lee, maybe you'd have more enthusiasm for building an oddball loco the ATSF had a fleet of:

the Prairie Mallets with hinged boilers?  Flipping through a Sept. 1968 issue of RMC,

I found an article on the construction of an HO version.  Shown are prototype photos

of #'s 1157,1170,1171, and 3322. These are LONG 2-6-6-2 mallets designed to bend in the middle of the boiler.

This is my last update on these.  One down, one suspended.

 

The 2-8-8-8-8-8-2 is suspended indefinitely. Right now, I have too many projects: completing my two 'Streets books takes not just top, but all priority - everything else is on hold - and that is eating all my time.  Further, I realized the cost in my time of completing it was not worth what I would get. if I take this up again (possible) I will use a better quality, closer to scale, and heavier chassis for the drivers and such.  What I would have produced would have been "starter set" quality - mostly plastic and lightweight.  Next time, if there is a next time: make it from two Imperial or Premier Triplexes!  

 

The streamlined 6-4-4-4 "super-steamer" is done.  Well at least for now.  I report seprately on the vinyl custom letters I used ("SANTA FE" in the photos below).  My first experience with them.  They worked well and I've ordered some numbers to put on the loco.

 

It looks good.  Again, pure fantasy.  It would have been a cab-forward, western version of something like the T-1, about as powerful and speedy.  

 

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The photo above shows it where it will be most of the time, because I won't be running it that alot I made this from a TMCC T-1 and like all TMCC locos I have it jackrabbits a bit in conventional, and as you can see it sticks its nose way out on curves - nearly like an articulated.   But it sounds interesting, and it made a few orbits of the big mainline loop this morning just fine.  It can probably pull a ton of cars.  It's pulling this short but very cool  MTH ATSF hospital train today just because that was on the layout when I set it up upon this morning.  

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