Rail Brown replacement?

Model Master has some of the acrylic railroad colors still available.

I used Railroad Tie Brown as a rail paint with an Air brush.

This Floquil cross reference chart has been available on the Microscale site.

Model Paint manufacture references.

 

• VA – Vallejo - available from The War Store - http://www.thewarstore.com/vallejomodelcolors.html •   MM - Model Masters •   TE - Testors •   TS - Tamiya Spray •   GS - Gunze Sangyo •   HU – Humbrol - available from Hornby America http://hornbyamerica.com/shop/humbrol/enamel-paints •   X, XF - Tamiya

If you want a spray can, Camo Brown is a popular choice. Its a little darker but super flat finish.

All the switches and storage tracks behind the 2925 were painted outside with a can of Camo Brown

I second what LOS said above.  I really like the look of RUST-OLEUM Camouflage Brown!

I used Camo Brown, either Rust-O-Leum or Krylon, sprayed outside (this is GG track -

the chrome web between the ties is a bother, but not a problem). Most real track

in my part of the country is this color; other climates/soils can affect this. After

it dries I use a Fine foam sanding block (shocking!) to remove it from the rail tops:

 

But I am not happy with what I have seen in regular rattle can options at Wal Mart, HD, etc.

 

A 2 rail turnout builder recommended Rust-OLeum Camouflage Brown (rattle can) to me. I haven't looked back.

 

The color also matches well with the Woodland Scenics track painting markers.

 

 

 

The samples above look pretty good.   Sometimes guys will use rail paint that it too "orangey" & it just doesn't look right.

Right. Then there is that red primer color. That looks even worse, in my opinion.

I first paint the ties gray primer and then weather with  india ink and alcohol mixture. Then use card board mask to spray the rails a dark primer brown and use thinner to clean rail tops. It is very effective.

Thanks fellows, it looks like either camouflage brown  or camo brown should work.  Gives me something to look for.  I had bought a brown and a primer brown, one was way too brown the other too orange.  Glad I tested them before starting on the track.  Your options are much better.

Peter:  Not to beat the poor horse here, but I have become such a fan of Rust-Oleum earth brown camo that I am compelled to comment. For many years I resisted painting my Atlas track because I thought the tie color was OK.  I didn't even object to the shinny rails until I got on the forum and discovered real modelers and their techniques. I tried the color sticks for the rails but it looked too red or too this or that.  In my recent layout renovation I decided it was time to bite the bullet and do it right (for my taste).  Over 300 feet of track and ties now earth brown camo has made a huge difference in tone and the overall appearance of my layout .  Sorry for this lengthy post, but like I said, I am a fan of earth brown camo.  Hope to see photos of your results.    

If you still have some of the Rail brown left you could spray some on a flat surface and take it to a paint shop and they could match it and put in in a spray can. Most automotive paint shops can do this and a few of the home stores as well.

Our club did that and had a gallon of latex made up. That gallon cost about the same as four 1/2 oz bottles of Poly Scale.

 

Pete

I start with Dupli-color Hot Rod Primer and then washes.....more work but great color for a class one heavy mainline railroad. 

Pennsynut,

I, too, use Rustoleum camo earth brown but I have taped over the points of switches to keep the paint out of moving parts.  I need to find the same color that I can brush on.  Do you know of a non-rattlecan version of this color?

Thanks,

Ed

Take the spray can and outside spray some paint into a cup of some kind.....ready to use with a brush....exact color. 

AMCDave,

I had thought of that but I was hoping for a less messy solution.  But, you are right.  It will work.

Thanks,

Ed

ED:  I protected the switches as well and have to find a way of painting the switches and track w/o rattle canning.  I do not know of a non-spray version of Rusto earth brown camo but I suppose there could well be one.  In the mean time, Dave's solution for the switches might be the way to go.  Spray just enough in a cup to get a portion of track and ties done while the paint is not yet dry?      

 

I should explain why I use Rust Oleum Camouflage Brown.  It's not like I stopped here first.  

 

It has the flattest finish I have ever seen.  I was surprised how flat the finish was after my first spray dried.

 

What's nice about it is that you can mask off any parts of a switch.  I'm very conservative and mask off the throw area by a few ties either way.  I also protect the points because I don't want to have to remove paint later which is causing electrical contact problems. I have used the paint on 2 and 3 rail switches.

 

The reason masking off the switch parts is no problem is because the Woodland Scenics Tidy Track Painter (which is basically a marker) matches the Camouflage Brown so well that there is little else to do.  The Steel Rail color is a brown that matches.  

 

If I'm working on some track that is very close to the viewer, I use the other Tidy Track Painter colors and chalk to get the desired results.

 

 

We are mostly talking about the same shade of flat very dark brown whether it be camo brown, flat earth brown or Ultra flat camo brown. They are all good and produce a realistic weathered appearance.

If I had HD match the camo brown / earth brown with a latex in a can, are there any issue with applying by brush, other than being a lot slower?? I only have 130 ft of track so it shouldn't be too bad of a project...or is it?? Should I put it on full strength or water it down and use it as a "wash"? I, too, am using Gargrave wooden ties flex track, SS, phantom.

When spraying track do you mask off the top of the rails or just wipe the paint off after spraying?

I have applied latex paint with a brush and Q tip just to the rail sides. I have also airbrushed it by thinning at least 50% and using a #5 tip in my Paasche H. I use windshield washer fluid to thin it as it has some alcohol and detergent in addition to water. Ironically I have less issues with this mixture than using Poly Scale.

 

 

Pete

Doug,  I think D500 mentioned he sprays the paint, then when it dries he uses a soft sanding sponge to remove it from the rail tops.

 

I just bought some Rustoleum Camo earth brown spray, and I am going to try a section tonight to see how I like it.  I also bought a 220 grit soft sanding sponge.

 

I'll post a pic and results after I do it.

When I spray painted all my Atlas O track (a RustoLeum color no longer made), I simply sprayed EVERYTHING, and then wiped off the tops of the rails with a cotton rage moistened in Lacquer thinner, wrapped around a piece of 1 X 2 wood.

My method too.......sanding can leave small scratches that can gather dirt and grime. 

Before spraying, I coat the tops of the rails with a thin film of 3-in-1 oil.  As soon as possible after spraying, I wipe the top of the rails with a cloth.

 

What is the best way to thin interior latex paint?  Sounds like windshield washer fluid is the best choice?

Ed

I have always used warm water. Why waste blue colored windshield washer fluid?

Blue juice is about $.89 gallon around here. The alcohol and detergent help disperse the paint. You probably spill more using it in your vehicle than the 1/2 oz used to thin the paint.

 

Pete

Here's a pic of my attempt.   I like it.

 

Rustoleum Camo Earth brown.   I used the excellent suggestion of wiping the top of the track with lacquer thinner on a rag wrapped around small wood block.

 

Luckily I don't have that much track on my 6x8.   I will mask, spray, the fininsh with brush the three switches.

 

My layout is going to be very rustic and industrial, so the dirty look works for me.