Step by Step Photos: How to Put Kadees on Atlas Cars

Rubin,

I use kadees on my engines also. I don't have any direct experience with 042 or 54, but I don't think kadees and 042 will work, nor on 054 unless maybe you truck mount them. Even then it may not be possible.

KD's work fine on my 26-28" radius (you can do the math...) tightest loop running a Weaver RS-3 and 40' cars as well as my NW-2 and all of my steam up through the 2-8-0's in 2- and 3-rail operation. I have one curve that is much tighter that limits use to just an 0-4-0 switcher. It's really dependent on your choices of rolling stock and motive power as well as era modeled. If you're going to ruin anything larger, you'll probably need larger curves or you're going to have "problems" using car mounted couplers that are limited in their swing motion by the their box. I put that last limitation in since the use of radius couplers in trolley operations permits the use of far tighter curves than one might normally consider possible.

I just mounted a #805 on the rear of my MTH GTW steel caboose. IT was a little un-nerving to cut the coupler mount off the MTH truck, you can not put it back together. The car does have 2 mounting holes, but I do need to get some shims. It needs one, but for now it is close. It really vastly improves the appearance of the car and I am definitly will be doing some more...This has been a great thread and would make a great article for OGR. I am sure that that would spread the word to alot more people...

Marty

quote:

Originally posted by DaveJfr0:
Spread the word indeed...maybe Kadee will make multi-packs for O-scale to save us some cash...I don't get how HO has like 80 types of kadees(atleast it seems that way when I walk into a well-stocked HO hobby shop) and we only have...well 800-806...which is more or less 2 types (short and long) in various colors and materials.

Once upon a time, right after we moved up from the bronze age, we only had the 804 and 805, and there would be 1 of each on the wall hidden amongst the 80 other packets of the other KD products...ask at the counter, "I think we have one packof those....somewhere...",

Since AZ is still in the stone age a response from a typical local LHS is something like this:

O gauge LHS: "What's a Kadee Coupler?"

HO / N gauge LHS: "What's O scale?"

Walthers online is a great source of these even at the non-sale price of $3.50 each.

Which vendors at York sell the Kadee 805's? Would the same vendor also carry the kadee height gauge and shims?

Thanks so much.

Paul

btw - Peter thanks for those excellent pictures and step by step directions

quote:

Originally posted by guttlaw:
This is a wonderful set of Q & A; just what the doctor ordered, answering many of my questions . But my layout is largely 042 and 054 curves, with turnouts to match ( It's C shaped in 13 x 14). Any thoughts on the best way to use kadees in this sharp curve environment, using 40 foot cars, RS 3s, Geeps and SW1 switchers + Lionel 0-8-0,K-Line 0-6-0 and the like ( PRR & NYC, thank you very much). Also, are you converting the engines or using them as is, with KDs on the cars only ?
Thanks,
Rubin

Rubin, my layout will be mostly 042 and 054 too. Having converted several cars with body mounted kadees and testing on 031 and 036 carpet layout, I'm fairly confident I'll have no trouble on the layout. I haven't tested anything close to an S curve, but I'm not planning on anything too close to an S on my layout either. I'm planning to stick to 40 footers and shorter. Even backing up two 40 footers kadee coupled together works on 031. Very close, but still clears.

This maybe a silly question as I am knew to Kadee couplers. Can they be opened by a remote device or only manually?

Does anyone use the 2 side mounting holes on the Kadee coupler pocket vice using the 2 centerline holes?

Also, does anyone cut off the "air hose"? I have had to bend practically every one of mine so they won't snag on the track. The only reason I haven't cut them off yet is because I had plans for using the between-the-rails magnets, but so far I haven't used them (does anyone?).

When I converted my rolling stock it seems like I had 1 or 2 Atlas cars that had to be done differently, because of interference with underbody details. They may have been older Atlas cars, I'll have to check.

I use the two side mounting holes on occasion, depending on the type and manufacturer of the car. Although I prefer the center mounting hole with a
#2-56 machine thread screw or #2 self taping sheet metal screw, I have used
#1-72 machine thread screws for the side mount holes.

quote:

Originally posted by Bob Delbridge:
Does anyone use the 2 side mounting holes on the Kadee coupler pocket vice using the 2 centerline holes?

Also, does anyone cut off the "air hose"? I have had to bend practically every one of mine so they won't snag on the track. The only reason I haven't cut them off yet is because I had plans for using the between-the-rails magnets, but so far I haven't used them (does anyone?).

When I converted my rolling stock it seems like I had 1 or 2 Atlas cars that had to be done differently, because of interference with underbody details. They may have been older Atlas cars, I'll have to check.

Yes, I cut most all of the "air hoses" off the Kadees. "someday" I'll get to imitation operating air hoses, and have cut the already ones off. IF they are dragging on the rails, they are too low. A tool that most any train modeler should have is a Kadee Coupler Gauge



Don't assume that the car you are lineing up to is correct.

Ed R

Ed,
I actually had a couple out of the bag that were straighter than others and would catch on the track. I had one that even fell out of the knuckle!!! I don't think that one was pushed in far enough because I re-seated it and it's been fine since.

I used to cut them off on my HO stuff, but haven't done so yet on the O items.

The new Walthers monthly sale catalog/flyer has 805's on sale at $2.98 per pair, so i just ordered 10 pairs from my dealer. I have converted alot of Atlas and MTH 3 rail cars to 2 rail using the MTH 2 rail scale trucks and 805 couplers, but i want to try converting my 3 rail fleet to scale couplers for better switching with no banging. I am confident in this type of conversion...The real question is has anyone converted their expensive Atlas or MTH 3 rail locos to scale couplers, [i may have missed the threads on this]. I'm kind of hesitant on maybe ruining the loco...I'm not a collector and do not care about re-sale values...When I go to that train layout in the sky, my wife and kids can worry about re-sale values...lol

Yes I have converted many MTH Premier Steam and Diesel loco's to Kadees. I just completed a Atlas MP15DC in which I also closed in the pilot. Almost all MTH hood diesels take a 1/8" shim between the coupler box and the bottom of the cast pilot assembly. MTH F units are quite a bit different.
Just finished a set of MTH F3's ABBAs for a friend in which I ran the MU tethers through the end doors and installed Kadees thru-out. Maybe the owner will take photos of the conversion and post.
I have not converted my Lionel SantaFE E6's or PA's, but did install Kadees between my Lionel F3's to shorten the gap.

Soo Nut...do you have any step by step advice you can share on the conversions?
i'd appreciate it

quote:

The real question is has anyone converted their expensive Atlas or MTH 3 rail locos to scale couplers

Yes:

SD 40:



Dash 8-40BW



GP 60



GP 60M

To add to Rich Montague's answer above, YES I am currently converting ALL my "expensive" 3rd Rail brass steam locomotives AND "expensive" MTH Premier steam locomotives to Kadee couplers! I already have over a dozen converted, including my Lionel Legacy UP FEF-3 and SP GS-4 4-8-4 models. Some are MUCH easier to convert than others, however what also takes a LOT OF TIME is removing that damned diecast mounting extension on the rear truck for the big electro-coupler on MTH models! I have already taken two truck bolster pieces to the vise in the garage and hack sawed off that extension! In most cases, if you do NOT remove that extension on the rear tender truck, it will NOT clear the Kadee coupler box assembly, thus the truck swing will be restriced on curves (my "sharp" curve is 072).

quote:

.The real question is has anyone converted their expensive Atlas or MTH 3 rail locos to scale couplers,

yes! Every single 3rd Rail loco I own get's a kadee coupler the moment it comes out of the box. Basic 10 step procedure here is:

#1 - open 3rd rail box
#2 - unpack it carefully
#3 - stare in awe over the details for 10-15 min.
#4 - power up on test track
#5 - take it apart and install kadee couplers
#6 - head to the layout.
#7 - blow the whistle
#8 - have fun
#9 - tell wife "I'll be up in a minute"
#10 - get yelled at by wife 3 hours later.

quote:

Originally posted by DaveJfr0:

David,

What is the origin of this car? It looks very nice and detailed.

Thanks

Yves

Rich Montague,
Did you add the fixed pilot to the #4030? Could you retain the regular (large) couplers with it?
Thanks