Thin Foam Board For Covering Plaster Walls?

Not sure if you're aware of it but in modern construction that's the way they build stucco homes these days. The product is called "drive-it" they also use the process to make the monuments signs you see in the entrances of home developments.

I don't see why it wouldn't work for you using a premium latex paint for a smooth texture on the background.

I would think the foam board would eventually start to warp. Your trees look great.

Yes, warpage may be a concern. Using plenty of tape will help.  Also, I would suggest painting BOTH sides of the boards.  Painting just one side will almost certainly cause warpage.

I would use MDF in either 1/8 or 1/4 inch

I forgot about warpage with the foam board.

Home Depot has 1/4" MDF, might have to try that.

I was hoping to cut the material to fit, then paint it before I put it in place.  Seems like it would be easier to paint it laying it flat on a table than already in position on the wall.

Never messed with MDF, does it hold together well when cut and does it take paint well?  That piece of knee wall is approx 12" high, as you can see in the photo it's also not perfectly straight across where it joins the roof line.  The house was built back in the 40s and I don't think the upstairs was intended for anything but storage space.

I have used Masonite or tempered Hardboard for mounting photo backdrops. You could probably use it for painting them on. The advantage is that you can have it cut to 1 ft X 8 ft strips (or what ever height you may need). Having 8 ft with NO SEAMS makes for a more convincing backdrop.

The way I mounted mine was to make the height  tall enough that it went below the layout surface so I could bolt it to the layout framework with wing nuts. This allows me to remove and change the background as needed.

Also I use 1 x 6 inch filler strip so I can sandwich several "depth giving" building or scenery cut outs an inch away from the tall background. Although I only use one filler and cut out strip, it is possible to use several to increase the "depth" of your background. Just be sure you buy bolts long enough to accommodate the combined thickness. 

To get additional depth you can glue litchen/foam/pillow stuffing to your painted trees.

Paul Goodness

Nick - Where is the best place to find Gatorboard?  Art supply stores? 

Art

Nick and Art,

I Googled it and it appears to be the same stuff they have at Michaels that I kind of mentioned in my 1st post, at least the photos of it look the same.

Art I've been buying mine from an art supply store her in Baltimore.   I see you live in Chicago so you may want to contact:

         Genesis Art Supply
          2417 N Western Ave.
          Chicago Illinois 60647
          773 292 2990
         

They are a big supplier of Gator Board in your area.

Bob I'm not sure what  Michaels carries.

Thanks, I'll have to check Michaels first and then work out further from home.

Art

The nice thing about 1/8 mdf is that it can be curved in the corner. Gatorboard is nice stuff, I use it for other applications though.

mixed media on MDF

I like foreground to have most of the detail when it comes to trees and backdrop to be a bit more muted. The nice thing about painting its easy to paint over it with white and start over. which was done on at least one occasion

this is about 6 inches from track to back of wall

They sell 1/4" sheet rock.  I think it's about the same price as the 1/2" sheets.  You can cut it to fit and tape the joints for a smooth finish.

rather than using foam board use 1/4 inch insulation foam  simply paint it with a standard  flat white wall primer hit is with a thin coat of Spackle to fill the "vent' perforations then do you scene painting. foam is stable to heat and humidity, masonite and MDF are not.

you can glue the finished product to the existing wall with foam adhesive or just use self stick velcro

1/8 MDF is stable, easy to use and a lot lighter than 1/4.

you know this may seem like a dumb question but I automatically think basement, and moisture issues  and my responses were geared toward that. upon closer inspection it seems that you have a knee wall.... if there is no moisture issue foam core board will work just fine use standard acrylics and or the crafts paints at Michael's. add mote white /violet/blue to 'gray the baack ground images ( like mountains and make the for ground elements more crisp and pure in color.. you will be fine with foamcore. I have used in as back boards for N=Track modules, attached to a wall, no problem but i would use velcro to attach the new backdrop for cleaning, changes and detail work as you go, hide the seams with buildings fronts, treees or other details

Since the painting effort requires the protection and stability of the material the 3/16 tempered hardboard (Masonite)would be the way to go.  

The stuff at the depot is a durable product and you could get it cut while you are there. Cut to the widest and trim to fit when you get home. It's available in 2' x 4' and 4' x 8'.

That's my 2¢.

Speaking of 2¢:   Here's a random hint:  

The big box hardware stores often have damaged pieces of Masonite (usually crushed corners) that they can't sell.  Ask them about it, they will often sell them very cheaply.