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Originally Posted by pennsyfan:
Originally Posted by trumptrain:

I've been quite busy working on the Mountain Division of the Free State Junction Railway since my last post.  

 

 

 

 

 

Break Time MTN DIVISION

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pat,

Excellent scenery work! That B&O SF-43 combination Boxcar/Caboose is awesome; I snagged one of them at York back when the Yellow Hall was still active.

Bob,  Thanks so much for your kind compliment.  I'm happy you liked the photo.  Yes I love this combo caboose as well. As soon as I saw it I just had to have it   I weathered it and now use it here on the Mountain Division.  Glad to hear you have once of these combos as well! 

Finished staging yard which has morphed into a 3 track stub end passenger terminal.  Installed the last of the RK block signals so now there are simulated signals and I know if something is on the track in locations that are out of site.  Weather is getting nicer so need to finish installing 3 caboose industries ground throws, stacking foam for a hill to hide where track penetrates a wall and installing track ballast before calling it a winter.

THE GLACIER LINE UPDATE: 

03-14-2014 The road crews are fast! In one day, they built the road across the tracks and also paved Main Street in Cataract. I cut a piece of hardboard to replace the balsa wood floor in our church. I also cut out paper and covered the park benches and painted them brown to make them look like church pews.

03-15-2014 I continued to paint the floor. Connie Coy detailed the top two church windows to look like stained glass. We both glued down the interior pieces onto the new hardwood base. The main aisle way in our church resembles our real life church, St. Stephen's Lutheran Church in Plainfield, Indiana. 

You aren't there yet Pastor Robert C. Rohrman!

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John,

 

The church looks fantastic!  Connie did a wonderful job on the stained glass!  The last view looking in from outside is really great!

 

That gives me a great idea. as a thread was going on the forum earlier this winter, every layout needs a church.  I of course, have always had one, but will need a new one in O gauge.  My idea is like you. to build a church reminiscent of the church Kim and I were married in 30 years ago.  While we moved a year later to Virginia, then West Virginia, we have been back in Butler, about 18 years, and are with our old congregation.  Also, the old building was too small, and was torn down a couple of years after our wedding for a larger one.  The church has old photos of the original building , and we have some, so I could do a descent job.  It was a unique building, so it would look good on the layout, when I get that going.

 

Thank you.

Last edited by Mark Boyce
Mark:
 
If you ever find yourself out this way again please contact me if you'd like to see the layout in person.  We are actually "between" Plainfield and Avon, Indiana.  From the I-to interchange at Plainfield, you are 15 minutes from our house.
 
Originally Posted by Mark Boyce:

I looked up Plainfield Indiana.  I see it is right off I70.  I traveled right past you twice driving to my company's headquarters in Mattoon, Illinois.  I don't know if I will ever go there again, but if so, I will at least lean over the driver, and blow the horn.  ;-)

 

03-16-2014 on THE GLACIER LINE

 

Connie outlined and began to paint the area of Cataract. Today it was mostly just blue sky. I went through the hassle of vacuuming up a bunch of ballast, probably about three feet total, to install some wires that will enable the flashing cross bucks to function automatically as trains pass through the main roadway crossing in Cataract.

 

Thank God! I didn't glue down my ballast or this would have been a disaster. I simply vacuumed up the ballast, installed two “trip” wires, one on each track that will lead to a Dallee Electronics circuit board that will make the signals flash and also activate a bell sound. Of course, I didn't think about this before I put the ballast in the first place, because there was no way to know that Connie and I would be offered two very nice cross bucks for five dollars each!

 

That’s why when building model railroads I try to construct everything in such a manner so that when changes or upgrades come it is easier to make the changes. If the ballast and track would have been glued down I would have literally had to rip/tear out the track and roadbed and wiring and start from scratch! Of course if we wouldn't have stumbled onto this fabulous deal it wouldn't have been a problem either!

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03-17-2014   

 

I ordered the MTH crossing gates with sound from LINCOLN, NE today for $59.99; which is a good price but bad because these are nowhere on the priority list.  I thought that we had gotten a great deal on the two signals we purchased not realizing I’d have to but another electronic piece to make the gates work.  A piece by itself, with no sound, ranges from $20 to $30.  After this discovery I thought to myself why am I going to buy just a circuit board to make the lights flash when for $30 more than that, $60.00 total, I can get: a sound system, a circuit board and two more crossing gates?  This became a no brainer less laying out $70 for stuff I don’t need, but farther down the road are nice details.

 

Secondly, because we now will have four crossing bucks, I stretched the Cataract road out farther than originally planned to have it cross the tracks on the far end town.  I think the nice long curve looks nice.    

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I was getting really bored with grass laying so I laid out a new addition to my layout-a bump and go trolly line! I always wanted to have parallel tracks; however, due to my space constraints I never thought it would be possible until I saw trolleys being advertised and I found some old track from an RTR set!

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We had a track laying party on Saturday. This is the unfinished side of my attic. There are double mainlines entering and exiting this area. At each end are #4 turnouts feeding a doubleslip switch. This breaks the track out to two mains plus a center passing siding. The 0138/0128/0120 curves at the far end are super elevated a scale 3" (1/16") and are spaced at 4.5" O.C. 

 

This area is approximately 14x18'. Even with two halogen work lights, it's hard as the dickens to get decent lighting. From the pictures, I can see I've got a tweak or two to straighten out a couple of my runs. All told, we ran about 90' of track. It's exciting to finally get some track down.

 

Special thanks to Jerry and Dexter for their assistance.

 

 

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Last edited by Gilly@N&W

Looking Great Gilly!  

 

I have neglected to post photos of the work going on at our club layout. It's fairly large with three loops and an elevated run that is separate from the lower mains.

We have created a gorge and one member is working on a trestle to span a river over and through it.

 

The orange arch bridge came from my old home layout.

 

Here is the temporary plywood support while we await the installation of the trestle itself.

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Last edited by c.sam

THE GLACIER LINE UPDATE: Second update today!

Connie Coy was a busy bee tonight! She extended the back drop painting about 12 to 13 feet. This is just the basic outline and fill. There are many more levels of detail to be added to this area. This is Cataract where the recent pictures have been of me installing a road and preparing for the flashing cross bucks with sound! It looks very different with all of the buildings removed.

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Originally Posted by chefnme:

I was getting really bored with grass laying so I laid out a new addition to my layout-a bump and go trolly line! I always wanted to have parallel tracks; however, due to my space constraints I never thought it would be possible until I saw trolleys being advertised and I found some old track from an RTR set!

Your trolley line will really add something to your layout and your growing town.  Looks great!

 

I recently purchased a bump and go trolley (Pittsburgh Railways of course).  I put it up on the Ceiling Central using Gar Graves track and bumpers.  The problem with the Gar Graves bumpers was that every few times, the bumper on the trolley would get stuck under the rail cross brace of the bumper.  It was that close of a fit.  Must have been designed by Murphy.

 

I modified the bumpers by gluing a tie under the rail.  It works fine now.  When I finally get to build my layout, I will come up with a better looking scheme.

Trolley 2014-03-17

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Last edited by Mark Boyce

I was very lazy today.  There's a whole bunch of stuff going on unrelated to trains that has my attention today.  I did go down and brainstorm my next plan-of-attack which is to get two of the four upper level hidden staging loops in operation.  All I need is one more turnout and a few more strips of track, plus building the support structure.  Hopefully this will be accomplished in the next few months--wires and all!

I went downstairs for the first time in a few days. Didn't spend long, but got a couple things done. Finished the wiring on the last of the control panels. Now all 4 are ready to install.

I also hooked up a strip of LED's to one of the circuits I built following forum member RailRide's design.

 

RailRide's original design.

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My perf board mounted version.

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Williams Superliner from the early 90's. I have 2, six car sets of these that need conversion.

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Not bad.

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I bought enough parts to do 50 cars.

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Originally Posted by Big_Boy_4005:

I went downstairs for the first time in a few days. Didn't spend long, but got a couple things done. Finished the wiring on the last of the control panels. Now all 4 are ready to install.

I also hooked up a strip of LED's to one of the circuits I built following forum member RailRide's design.

 

RailRide's original design.

package%20with%20annotoations
My perf board mounted version.

IMG_4138
Williams Superliner from the early 90's. I have 2, six car sets of these that need conversion.

IMG_4139
Not bad.

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I bought enough parts to do 50 cars.

Nice! I tried to send u few emails and never heard from you. Please check ur emails. Thanks! 

well I'm the odd ball here..I have a carpet layout for now,until we move into a bigger appartment  or house...but its better then nothing at all....its 11x18...I had to re wire my PRR S1 unskirted duplex made by 3rd rail..going to upgrade it to TMCC shortly...here a video of it running..running high balling...but had the sound off to show a guy how smooth it runs but can hear the belt wine in it...its like hearing a blower on a car..because of the wide cog belt.....sound neat to me..S1 with a blower..lol..I do take a section of track down by the kichen and hall way so nobody cant step on the track...video was taken with my samsung s4 cell phone..laidoffsick I love your setup..!!..thats what I'm hoping to do someday..

For the first time in 3 weeks Patrick came over, and we actually did some construction.

The new hidden yard is now ready for track!

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Just like the old hidden yard, the new hidden yard is situated on a reverse loop.

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Trains will travel past the yard, around the loop, then into one of the 7 tracks.

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Next week is going to be crazy, Jon (Mill City) on Tuesday, Matt on Wednesday, and Patrick on Thursday. The goal is to get the hidden yard laid and powered, so the temporary cutoff can be removed once and for all. Shooting for the end of April.

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I am starting the process of working on my bridge that will be on the curve coming out of my passenger terminal.  I am thinking that I want a curved stone arch bridge that is loosely based on the one in Minneapolis.  The first step is experimenting with cardboard mockups to determine the sizes and shapes of the arches.  Here is a picture of the first attempt.

 

 

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Thanks, Brian.  It has been pointed out to me that the real bridge has more elliptical arches, but I'm not sure that that is important.  Here are a couple pictures of the real bridge that is in Minneapolis.  It's not important to me to make an exact copy of this bridge, but I want to follow it loosely.  I decided to also post these on the weekend photo fun.

 

Art

 

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Last edited by Chugman

Art, this is a model of the Stone Arch Bridge at the Twin Cities Model Railroad Museum. I hand painted every stone 25 years ago. This model doesn't include every arch. I think the real one has 22. But the arches it does have are the correct proportion, which give it the look of the real thing.

 

As long as you are still working with cardboard, you might want to try fewer, wider arches.

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Art....

 

The arches that support my city are made from pink insulation foam sheets.  It was as simple as drawing out the design directly on the foam and then cutting it.  From there you can paint and weather to your taste and then use a soft lead pencil to draw a block or brick pattern.  The pencil creates the mortar joints and a relief to the surface.  The foam can be bent into graceful curves, etc.....  The picture below, even though it is not in a bridge form as you intend, shows the finished arches for the city....

 

Alan

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Rick - I am thinking that I will make the basic shape out of 1/8" Masonite.  It is bendable enough yet will have a lot of strength when it is curved.  I most likely will then cover it with thin foam and then use a pencil to "carve" the stones on it.  Please share your ideas and progress so we can all learn from it.

 

Alan - Thanks for your input.  Your a tough act to follow, but I appreciate your suggestions.

 

Alan - I am going to have to try an elliptical pattern and see how it looks.  I know it looks great on the real bridge in Minneapolis, but I also like the look of the first cardboard template too.  Another decision is whether to lower the entire bridge?  It is currently designed to be 12" high.  A taller bridge would be more dramatic, but is it worth the trouble to redo all the bench work in this area?  I'm thinking not, but am interested in your opinions.

 

Art

Alan...thanks!  Actually, the stone supports are Woodland Scenics HO retaining walls.  They are plaster castings that I stained with....are you ready?.....ground cloves from my wife's pantry!!  Yep, took the stark white castings and put them in a bowl of water, added the powdered cloves and heated the mixture up in the microwave.  Let them sit for about 10 minutes or so and the result turned out great.  ( I remembered from past experience that cloves stain clothing quite well..LOL!!)

 

Alan

Alan

 

The stone support supporting the lift bridge are great. It's the other Lionel elevating supports sitting atop those concrete bridge bases aah not so much! If you are going to use the Lionel elevated supports then cut off the base so they dont overhang the bridge support and add your own base plates then sit those on the bridge supports.

 

However, employing the many concrete plastic bridge bases, we all have that come with each MTH and Lionel Bridge, in any way, is a fabulous testament to "waste not want not."  

Last edited by AlanRail

Alan...OH..OK, I thought you were referring to the supports on the arches.  Yes, I have to agree with you.  I was trying to come up with something different for the approach bridge supports going to the lift bridge and came up with the idea of using something I already had.  I don't like them all that much either and have for quite some time thought about changing them.  As a matter of fact, I have some nice MTH stone supports that I am working on right now so keep your eyes posted, a change may be in the near future!!

 

Alan

well I did a lot today I think. while at a home store today they had a remeinant of indoor out door carpet so I bought it and brought it home pulled off all the track on the whole layout and began putting it down and cutting it around mountains and and then began reinstalling the track.  installed 3 signals screwed down 2 loops of track here's the results.

 

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THE GLACIER LINE UPDATE:
This is also a real life history lesson existing today on the top of Marias Pass which is located on the southern boundary of Glacier National Park.
03-23-2014 Connie and I worked on our models of three real life ...objects that are situated in real life in Marias Pass at the summit in a place named: Marias Pass Memorial Square.  The three real life objects are:
The Theodore Roosevelt Memorial monument ...... constructed in 1931 honors the president who made forest conservation a national policy. It also marks the 25th anniversary of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service. The monument was originally to have been a granite arch spanning the highway. Instead, this obelisk was built. The monument is a tapering 60-foot tall obelisk which resembles the Washington Monument. Its concrete core originally extended 19 feet underground. The seven-inch-thick granite slabs covering the monument were quarried from a source near Helena, the state's capital.
John F. Stevens statue. He was a civil engineer for the Great Northern Railroad.  He was charged with finding a suitable rail route across the Continental Divide. In December of 1889, Stevens located and recorded the pass which had been used by area Native Americans for many centuries. By 1893, the Great Northern was running trains over Marias Pass.  This route provided the lowest pass (at 5,216 feet above sea level) and the shortest link between the headwaters of the Mississippi River and the Pacific Coast.
William H. "Slippery Bill" Morrison, (ROCK with PLAQUE) claimed "squatter's rights" to the land at Marias Pass. Through diplomatic negotiations by the Columbia Falls Chamber of Commerce and others (including Supervisor Hornby of the Flathead National Forest), Morrison agreed to donate his rights to this land for building a monument to Theodore Roosevelt. Morrison stipulated that no concessions, "hamburger stands" as he referred to them, would be built on any of this property during his lifetime.
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— with Connie Coy. (9 photos)

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John
 
Cool. Learn something new every day. Look forward to pics when you mount them on your layout.
 
Doug
 
 
 
Originally Posted by John C.:
THE GLACIER LINE UPDATE:
This is also a real life history lesson existing today on the top of Marias Pass which is located on the southern boundary of Glacier National Park.
03-23-2014 Connie and I worked on our models of three real life ...objects that are situated in real life in Marias Pass at the summit in a place named: Marias Pass Memorial Square.  The three real life objects are:
The Theodore Roosevelt Memorial monument ...... constructed in 1931 honors the president who made forest conservation a national policy. It also marks the 25th anniversary of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service. The monument was originally to have been a granite arch spanning the highway. Instead, this obelisk was built. The monument is a tapering 60-foot tall obelisk which resembles the Washington Monument. Its concrete core originally extended 19 feet underground. The seven-inch-thick granite slabs covering the monument were quarried from a source near Helena, the state's capital.
John F. Stevens statue. He was a civil engineer for the Great Northern Railroad.  He was charged with finding a suitable rail route across the Continental Divide. In December of 1889, Stevens located and recorded the pass which had been used by area Native Americans for many centuries. By 1893, the Great Northern was running trains over Marias Pass.  This route provided the lowest pass (at 5,216 feet above sea level) and the shortest link between the headwaters of the Mississippi River and the Pacific Coast.
William H. "Slippery Bill" Morrison, (ROCK with PLAQUE) claimed "squatter's rights" to the land at Marias Pass. Through diplomatic negotiations by the Columbia Falls Chamber of Commerce and others (including Supervisor Hornby of the Flathead National Forest), Morrison agreed to donate his rights to this land for building a monument to Theodore Roosevelt. Morrison stipulated that no concessions, "hamburger stands" as he referred to them, would be built on any of this property during his lifetime.
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— with Connie Coy. (9 photos)

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honestly it was easy. removed all the track laid it down  cut to fit . put track back over it. the thing I have found to be a nice feature of it has been the sound reduction in running trains on fastrack. now when I run I can hear the clickity clack of the trucks on the track joints. I did not glue it down the track holds it in place once screwed down. I did leave a small over hang so when I do my facia I can trim to it . another thing I have done this weekend was ran wiring for the signal lights got them somewhat working. and ran longer wire for fastrack switches the longer wire is standard phone line has the same color combo as the fastrack switch wire. I did order switch controllers so I should be wiring that up in the near future. the only thing I don't know how to do yet but have ideas is how to do roads for a city street. do I just place it over the carpet or cut out that area. I would also like to ballast the track but not sure how that would work with the carpet either. here's a video of the train running last night with the lights. they act alittle funny when doing a isolated block 3 in my case do you leave a section that isn't isolated between each block I didn't and I am thinking that might be why the lights are acting funny.

 

Last edited by Jhainer

Working on my stone arch bridge and trying to decide on the shape of the arches.  A friend made me some elliptical patterns and I cut what I felt was the most promising one out of cardboard to compare it to the first trial.  The first one was just using a 4" hole saw for the top of the arch. 

 

Which do you think looks better?  What should I do differently?

 

Art

 

 

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Last edited by Chugman

Oh, and while I was at it I managed to get my Milwaukee Road F-3's running again. 

 

When I was trying to run a few trains to show some non-train friends the layout last Saturday night and talking at the same time, I had a "phantom" derailment.  My F-3 "picked a switch" that it had run over countless times before with no problem.  We all know the "phantom" and "Murphy" show up to help when we have company.  Had a bad short and after restoring the power, the engine wouldn't run.

 

After playing with it today, I discovered that the "phantom" somehow added another engine to my handheld with everything correct except the assigned engine number.  After deleting the added engine, everything is back to normal.  At least until I have company again.

 

Art

Last edited by Chugman

Just a personal opinion, Art, but I think you've nailed it with the elliptical arches, they just seem more graceful.  Especially with the incline, they just kinda cascade from one to the next.  It's all just personal taste, though - I could see someone saying the first ones looked more solid, like a Roman aquaduct.  I think a lot of the finished look is going to depend on the details like the size of the stones.  I don't see it turning out bad whatever you do, it's a really nice feature.

 

 

I wired 4 passenger yard tracks today.  I have a bunch of extra 110 light switches left over from the basement work.  I have ben using them as track switches to turn power on/off on the yards tracks.

 

Today I used X10 pushbutton switches.  The track would have power when measured with a volt meter.  As soon as I would put a lighted car on the track, the power would die.  I thought I wired something wrong, but double checked and all was right.  I swapped out the X10 switches for traditional wall switches all worked fine.

 

So I guess the X10 has something in them that the track power does not like.

 

Ron

 

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Originally Posted by Chugman:

Working on my stone arch bridge and trying to decide on the shape of the arches.  A friend made me some elliptical patterns and I cut what I felt was the most promising one out of cardboard to compare it to the first trial.  The first one was just using a 4" hole saw for the top of the arch. 

 

Which do you think looks better?  What should I do differently?

 

Art

Art,

I agree with everyone else, the second one looks much better, and I think much more prototypical.

Originally Posted by Chugman:

Working on my stone arch bridge and trying to decide on the shape of the arches.  A friend made me some elliptical patterns and I cut what I felt was the most promising one out of cardboard to compare it to the first trial.  The first one was just using a 4" hole saw for the top of the arch. 

 

Which do you think looks better?  What should I do differently?

 

Art

 

 

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I vote for the elliptical arches.

Originally Posted by Rixster:

Tough call, Art...both look really good, but I will go against the popular vote and choose the first one.  I think I like the fact it will contain more stonework with the narrower arches.  You can't go wrong with either design, however.

 

Rick

There is something to be said for both styles of arch. After thinking further about my vote for the eliptical arch, another reason for my preference was that the spaces between the uprights are further apart and show more of what is behind the bridge.

Originally Posted by Chugman:

Randy - Thanks for your comment and opinion.  That is a good point about exposing more of the scenery under and behind the bridge.  By the way, I love your creativity on your logo, nice job!

 

Art

Art:

Thank you for the kind compliment. The logo is my feeble attempt at computer art. My son, Chris, has a friend at school who is a real artist and, in his spare time, is cleaning up the logo.

 

Randy

Since my last post, I've built a real stone portal for my trolly line where it enters the underside of Mt. Randolph.  I've also used real stone for the hillside that runs along side the trolly line decending from track level of the Mountain Division.  The trolly line is entirely elevated on the layout, making for a second level to my Free State Junction Railway which runs above the fictitious town of Patsburg.   The east end of the trolly line terminates at a bumper on the inside of the underside of Mt. Randolph.  The west side of the trolly line will terminate at Patsburg Westend, a shopping district.  

 

 Having the trolly line run inside of Mt. Randolph alludes to the interurban days.  i use an Atlas O trolly.  ( See accomp. photos ) 

 

I used real rocks which I got out of a nearby river bed.  I glued the rocks together using Sinbad glue ( great stuff !! ) which I picked up at York.  Using Sinbad to glue the rocks together insures there will be no rock slides.   

 

The top rock over the portal is a long sort of "slab" rock, which fit quite nicely into the space.  The portal does not look at all like any "classic" portal, which from my standpoint is pretty cool.  As I planned my layout, I did not want to have all of one kind of portal.  I want to give visitors the impression that the railroad was constructed over a period of many decades so different kinds of stone, materials, and cuts were employed.  At present there are a total of 8 portals on the layout and I use 6 different kinds of portals .... one MTH single portal ( heavily weathered )  for the east portal of Mt. Randolph on the Mountain Division, a Scenic Express wooden portal ( also weathered ) on the west end of Mt. Randolph.  For the double track main lines on the bottom deck of my layout I use 3 K line double track portals, an MTH double track portal ... which I had to widen a bit and cut the top higher to accommodate GG1 panagraphs... and a unique looking single portal that I purchased at a local train show.

 

I hope you enjoy the accompanying photos showing the rock hill, portal, a view of all 3 layout levels, and a Y6 taking the bridge.

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  • waiting at the station: another view of all 3 levels
  • Y6 take bridge: Leading a mixed freight on the Mountain Division
Originally Posted by Chugman: Both sets of arches you will be great whichever one you decide upon.  I do find myself in favor of the wider arches because they do seem a bit more majestic and graceful.  I also agree with Randy that the wider arches will allow for better viewing of whatever scenery you have behind the arches.  Just my 2 cents.  Whichever way you go though your layout will be a winner 

Working on my stone arch bridge and trying to decide on the shape of the arches.  A friend made me some elliptical patterns and I cut what I felt was the most promising one out of cardboard to compare it to the first trial.  The first one was just using a 4" hole saw for the top of the arch. 

 

Which do you think looks better?  What should I do differently?

 

Art

 

 

bridge5

bridge6

bridge7

 

I was busy today. I decided today that before I start on the upper part of my tunnel/mountain I needed to paint the wall in the room blue for sky. also I wanted to finally attach the tunel portals I worked on over the weekend so I did that tonight also. so here is a layout update of sorts. I also ordered a few things in the past few days I ordered 2 sc1 switch controllers and a station with 3 platforms 2 at almost 12 inchs and one at 24 inches.

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20140326_010834

20140326_010845

20140326_010939

20140326_010943

20140326_010955

20140326_011009

20140326_011041

20140326_011053

20140326_011102

20140326_011109

20140326_011119

20140326_011202

20140326_011226

20140326_011241

20140326_011252

20140326_011311

20140326_011335

CLW007D

Attachments

Images (17)
  • 20140326_010823: Blue wall painted tonight
  • 20140326_010834: Blue wall painted tonight
  • 20140326_010845: Blue wall painted tonight
  • 20140326_010939: 2 tunnel portals made from pink foam
  • 20140326_010955: tunnel portal made from pink foam
  • 20140326_011009: portal and wall portal from pink foam wall from foamcore
  • 20140326_011041: foamcore wall
  • 20140326_011102: mountain painted and retaining wall behind switch tower painted
  • 20140326_011109
  • 20140326_011119
  • 20140326_011202
  • 20140326_011226
  • 20140326_011241
  • 20140326_011252
  • 20140326_011311: another retaining wall
  • 20140326_011335: control panel at the moment
  • CLW007D: station and platforms I ordered it's about 6 weeks until it shows up
Originally Posted by trumptrain:
Looks great!  Nicely done!
Originally Posted by p51:

Completed a depot repaint and re-detail I've been wanting to do for a very long time. You can even read the writing on the bulletin chalkboard if you break out a magnifying glass...

 

 


Thanks!

 

I also have a few new structures, including two single-story farm houses, a water tower and some small sheds.

My layout only exists on paper, I'm waiting for a pal of mine who's offered to help me with my benchwork (I'm going to be building it in sections, so it can be broken down and transported if I ever have to move) for a time he can break out the saws. I have my track plan and am also currently buying up more On30 flex track.

that is very nice.  good detail! 
Originally Posted by trumptrain:

Since my last post, I've built a real stone portal for my trolly line where it enters the underside of Mt. Randolph.  I've also used real stone for the hillside that runs along side the trolly line decending from track level of the Mountain Division.  The trolly line is entirely elevated on the layout, making for a second level to my Free State Junction Railway which runs above the fictitious town of Patsburg.   The east end of the trolly line terminates at a bumper on the inside of the underside of Mt. Randolph.  The west side of the trolly line will terminate at Patsburg Westend, a shopping district.  

 

 Having the trolly line run inside of Mt. Randolph alludes to the interurban days.  i use an Atlas O trolly.  ( See accomp. photos ) 

 

I used real rocks which I got out of a nearby river bed.  I glued the rocks together using Sinbad glue ( great stuff !! ) which I picked up at York.  Using Sinbad to glue the rocks together insures there will be no rock slides.   

 

The top rock over the portal is a long sort of "slab" rock, which fit quite nicely into the space.  The portal does not look at all like any "classic" portal, which from my standpoint is pretty cool.  As I planned my layout, I did not want to have all of one kind of portal.  I want to give visitors the impression that the railroad was constructed over a period of many decades so different kinds of stone, materials, and cuts were employed.  At present there are a total of 8 portals on the layout and I use 6 different kinds of portals .... one MTH single portal ( heavily weathered )  for the east portal of Mt. Randolph on the Mountain Division, a Scenic Express wooden portal ( also weathered ) on the west end of Mt. Randolph.  For the double track main lines on the bottom deck of my layout I use 3 K line double track portals, an MTH double track portal ... which I had to widen a bit and cut the top higher to accommodate GG1 panagraphs... and a unique looking single portal that I purchased at a local train show.

 

I hope you enjoy the accompanying photos showing the rock hill, portal, a view of all 3 layout levels, and a Y6 taking the bridge.

Rock solid

FSJR 3 Levels

waiting at the station

Y6 take bridge

 

Originally Posted by Chris D:  Thanks so much Chris.  I appreciate your taking time to view my photos and your nice compliment.
that is very nice.  good detail! 
Originally Posted by trumptrain:

Since my last post, I've built a real stone portal for my trolly line where it enters the underside of Mt. Randolph.  I've also used real stone for the hillside that runs along side the trolly line decending from track level of the Mountain Division.  The trolly line is entirely elevated on the layout, making for a second level to my Free State Junction Railway which runs above the fictitious town of Patsburg.   The east end of the trolly line terminates at a bumper on the inside of the underside of Mt. Randolph.  The west side of the trolly line will terminate at Patsburg Westend, a shopping district.  

 

 Having the trolly line run inside of Mt. Randolph alludes to the interurban days.  i use an Atlas O trolly.  ( See accomp. photos ) 

 

I used real rocks which I got out of a nearby river bed.  I glued the rocks together using Sinbad glue ( great stuff !! ) which I picked up at York.  Using Sinbad to glue the rocks together insures there will be no rock slides.   

 

The top rock over the portal is a long sort of "slab" rock, which fit quite nicely into the space.  The portal does not look at all like any "classic" portal, which from my standpoint is pretty cool.  As I planned my layout, I did not want to have all of one kind of portal.  I want to give visitors the impression that the railroad was constructed over a period of many decades so different kinds of stone, materials, and cuts were employed.  At present there are a total of 8 portals on the layout and I use 6 different kinds of portals .... one MTH single portal ( heavily weathered )  for the east portal of Mt. Randolph on the Mountain Division, a Scenic Express wooden portal ( also weathered ) on the west end of Mt. Randolph.  For the double track main lines on the bottom deck of my layout I use 3 K line double track portals, an MTH double track portal ... which I had to widen a bit and cut the top higher to accommodate GG1 panagraphs... and a unique looking single portal that I purchased at a local train show.

 

I hope you enjoy the accompanying photos showing the rock hill, portal, a view of all 3 layout levels, and a Y6 taking the bridge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Originally Posted by p51:
Originally Posted by trumptrain:
Looks great!  Nicely done!
Originally Posted by p51: Yeah P51!  Keep those dreams alive and may your friend get over to your place and help you out with the bench work!  This little station looks great!  Would love to see the rest of your structures.

Completed a depot repaint and re-detail I've been wanting to do for a very long time. You can even read the writing on the bulletin chalkboard if you break out a magnifying glass...

 

 


Thanks!

 

I also have a few new structures, including two single-story farm houses, a water tower and some small sheds.

My layout only exists on paper, I'm waiting for a pal of mine who's offered to help me with my benchwork (I'm going to be building it in sections, so it can be broken down and transported if I ever have to move) for a time he can break out the saws. I have my track plan and am also currently buying up more On30 flex track.

 

Originally Posted by Jhainer:  I really like how you made a cut in the hillside for your switch tower.  Very cool!! Very nice looking bridge as well!  Retaining walls looks really good too, as does the night shot of your passenger station! WOW!

I was busy today. I decided today that before I start on the upper part of my tunnel/mountain I needed to paint the wall in the room blue for sky. also I wanted to finally attach the tunel portals I worked on over the weekend so I did that tonight also. so here is a layout update of sorts. I also ordered a few things in the past few days I ordered 2 sc1 switch controllers and a station with 3 platforms 2 at almost 12 inchs and one at 24 inches.

 

 

20140326_010845

 

 

20140326_010955

20140326_011009

20140326_011041

 

20140326_011102

20140326_011109

 

 

20140326_011226

 

 

20140326_011311

 

CLW007D

 

Originally Posted by Chugman:

Working on my stone arch bridge and trying to decide on the shape of the arches.  A friend made me some elliptical patterns and I cut what I felt was the most promising one out of cardboard to compare it to the first trial.  The first one was just using a 4" hole saw for the top of the arch. 

 

Which do you think looks better?  What should I do differently?

 

Art

 

 

 

 

 

Art, have to agree with the others. The wider arch mock-up looks better and they will allow for great views of the scenicing after you are done.

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