What's a good flat enamel clear coat for finishing off passenger cars?

Krylon paint- not krypton!

Testor DULLCOTE

PAT44 posted:

Testor DULLCOTE

2X used it for many years.....

Thank you!

I've tried many different flat finishes and keep coming back to Dullcote. Using an airbrush it produces an even, dead flat finish. However, passenger cars shouldn't be dead flat so I usually mix in 1/3 to 1/2 Glosscote for passenger cars. Gives a somewhat satin finish. Even though its a lacquer, I've never had a problem with it attacking the underlying enamel paint.

Ken

I just looked this up and it's lacquer. Does it go on over enamel okay? 

Spraying Dullcote allows the solvent to evaporate rapidly so I've never had it attack dry enamel paint. However, if you brushed Dullcote on, you may have a problem.

Ken

Testors dullcoat is designed to work with Testors system which up until a few years ago was all enamel paints. Never had an issue over any paint but water based paints.

Okay thanks guys. 

I painted one car so far and it came out really nice. The thing I wanted to get rid of is the sheen of the krylon satin around the Windows. The rest of the body is Floquil enamel and it's already flat or dull. I'm making a polar express set, using MTH 60 foot Madison cars. It should look similar to the Lionel heavy weights when I'm done. 

Dullcote has never reacted badly with any paint that I've used, water-based or otherwise. In fact, the water-based acrylics are the most inert, I believe, once dry. But, I haven't used all the paint in the world.

I'm sure that there are exceptions, but I have found Dullcote to be fairly foolproof - just don't apply it too thickly at once - it turns milky, and that's just bad painting, anyway.

I have tried to "dull down" some paints on some surfaces, and never got it there, even with Dullcote. It would still dry as a satin. Didn't ruin anything; it just never got flat, regardless of the number of coats. I guess that the D'cote was reacting a bit with the other paint (not water-based, BTW), even after several days curing time. That's my only "complaint".

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However - I want to know where you got that "krypton" paint!

Okay awesome! I'm feeling more confident about using the lacquer dull coat on my cars. Does it go on pretty smooth? (The testors brand dull coat from rattle can)

USE AT OWN RISK!!!!!!

I warm can with warm tap water in a bowl for about 5 minutes before use. My experience it makes spray finer.

DON'T BOIL OR MICROWAVE!!!!!

lawyer talk over.  

Okay good to know!

I've not had it react with any paint yet...............1st time for everything.

However, I believe that it is not entirely compatible with the dry transfers from Clover House that are being printed now - change in printer and ink formulation at that end, I guess.

Someone suggested another "dull coat" paint that works well with sealing chalks sold at Home Depot or Lowes. Does anyone remember it?

Dull coat is expensive but I have had fantastic results with it.

Dry transfers? Is that a decal??

Wyatts dad posted:

Dry transfers? Is that a decal??

Kinda........it is a image printed on a translucent film. You place the transfer on the model and rub the film....transferring image to model.  Some call the 'rub-ons'.  Back in my hobby manufacturing days I may have made a million of them......never counted. 

Oh okay... So does the dull coat affect these only if you spray after you've put on the decal?? Can you spray dull coat then put that type of decal on? 

I actually was going to try to find something like that for the new polar express lettering I need to put on these MTH passenger cars. Does anyone know where I can get some of these dry rub decals custom made??? Shoot that would really be awesome if someone could steer me in the right direction to have some made. 

Thank you

Mike

If airbrushing I have had great luck using ScaleCoat II. The line is available now thru a company in New Hampshire (I think). Use to be a Weaver product.

Dick

Wyatts dad posted:

Oh okay... So does the dull coat affect these only if you spray after you've put on the decal?? Can you spray dull coat then put that type of decal on? 

I actually was going to try to find something like that for the new polar express lettering I need to put on these MTH passenger cars. Does anyone know where I can get some of these dry rub decals custom made??? Shoot that would really be awesome if someone could steer me in the right direction to have some made. 

Thank you

Mike

Decals apply better to a glossy surface. Put the dull coat on after decals. A flat finish my "feel" smooth, but it is actually microscopically quite rough. That causes the dull look. Decals will only settle on the high parts of the rough finish causing the decals to not adhere well as well as not looking nearly as nice.

Steve

I personally would spray a glossy finish, mask off a portion for the decals, then sand the rest down by hand to get a flat finish.

With water decals, you must remove air pockets first. Otherwise the result will be terrible when using Dullcote. You will get "silvering" effect

Pop any bubbles with a sharp blade and use Solvaset.  This stuff is amazing.  It will melt the decal into the surface. 

Wyatts dad posted:

Does anyone know where I can get some of these dry rub decals custom made???

Inquire with Clover House.  No deal what the minimum page order might be for what you might want get made.

Dry transfers work differently than decals.  Usually not a gloss surface is best.  Biggest advantage is a lack of decal film....

You can likely get tutorial information off the Clover House web site.

Has anyone used a painting template? I saw someone on here talked about it and had shown pics of their custom lettering and they had templates made and used them to make the polar express lettering.