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Fellow Post War Friends,  At the recent York TCA meet I picked up a JC NW2 switcher #602.  It needed some TLC but nice summer project.  It ran but no horn.  On getting into it I found that the horn relay was disconnected and it had corrosion damage.  The battery holder was not damaged. It must have been stored in a upright position so when the battery leaked it leaked on the relay.  I attempted to try and clean it and get it working which I can still do but thought maybe replacing it instead.  Looking in Greenburg's Repair guide they list three different numbers for Post War relays.  WSR-1, 2333R-121 and 2328R-121.  What are the differences between the three?  I know they go in different engines but are they interchangeable?  I have a number of dead in the water, whistling tenders and was wondering if I can use one of the WSR-1 relays in one of them in the NW2?  I don't see a difference other than some mounting insulation cardboard between the relay and battery holder and of course the tenders don't use a battery.  Thanks for your knowledge in advance!

Dave 

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They WSR-1 vs. Diesel relays are not interchangeable.

The WSR-1 has 2 external wire connections.  Body goes to ground.  One of the coil wires grounds to the relay body.  Wire connection 1 center rail for coil, The other wire to the motor for ground.  This motor wire is the contact wire.

The diesel relays with battery have 3 external wire connections.  They need an extra connection for common/ground for the coil.   Relay body connected to Battery +,   1 wire for center rail for coil powr, 1 wire for coil ground, 1 wire for the horn, battery +. The horn wire is the contact wire.

I think the 2 diesel battery based relays function the same.   Update.  I don't know the exact difference between the diesel relays.  Lionel documents show the 2328 version for the 600 series locos.

Last edited by VHubbard

I have taken a bad diesel unit and removed the wire connections and then hooked them up to a WSR-1 making sure the coil ground is modified and inuslated for the connection.  I had to sand down the screw holding the insulators and contacts together.  The insulators had shrunk slightly over time.  If the screw extends past the body and near the coil, the coil just vibrates on/off when activated.   Took a while to figure that out.

Don't clean the insulators with water.  They retain water and then sparkle little shorts for quite a while afterward until they dry completely.    Takes a few days.

The price difference vs. work involved may make buying one complete more attractive.

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