My Christmas layout season begins every year on Veteran's weekend. I posted some differerent designs in previous posts but this is what I'm moving forward with
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Looking forward to your progress!
Peter
Looks great Garrett, look forward to seeing the final set up with all the deco. Post updates. Nick T.
always enjoy these posts..keep up the good work!
Since I'm placing the plywood directly on the table, there will be cutouts in various places for Dept 56 building power cords to pass under the tracks. I totally forgot to mark these areas before I disassembled the track and put the wood and tables up for the evening. I had to put everything back together this morning and mark the wood
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Love it. Looks great. Will be a fun Christmas.
I use Fastrack myself and think it is great but, screwed directly to plywood and sitting on those tables the racket will be overwhelming. You might want to think about putting a piece of inexpensive carpet between the plywood and the track.
Agreed. I have cheap carpet pad that I bought off Amazon and green indoor/outdoor carpet that they sell by the foot at Lowe's/HD. It makes a big difference. Before I built my layout, I was really concerned about FasTrack noise. The pad and carpet deadens the sound so much that I don't even think about it.
And I should have mentioned, this is a cool plan. It'll be fun to see.
From concept to creation, very cool to see.
What's not to like. Keep up with the photos.
Thanks for posting - I love seeing folks' Holiday layouts, especially Christmas. Can't wait to see the finished product!
- Neal
Hi G,
Always nice to see each year's creation. Here's some changes I made to your original plan for fitment. I used the FasTrack combo chart to get the straights to fit.
EDIToops! I missed the 48" wide part- this just makes it -check the attachments - they have been replaced.
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Very nice plan. Will you try something white for snow on the layout and under the tracks? Looking forward to more images!
For years I would set up three separate Dept 56 villages (Christmas in the City, Dickens' Village, and North Pole) and drill holes in the plywood bases to conceal the wiring. When I built my permanent layout with all three villages I found an easy way to save time and not drill or cut the wood base for the wires.
I placed all of the buildings where I wanted them and used white duct tape to tape the wires to the top of the wood base. If you can replace the single wires with Dept 56 multiple bulb wire strings (still available on e-bay) you will save even more time. Add roads, paths, water, ice features as needed and then cover all of the wires and other "ground" areas with sheets of white polyester quilt batting available at discount and fabric stores (sold in rolls). Cover wires from the base to a building with torn pieces of batting. Run the batting under the fastrack as well (this is a bit time consuming and you will need to slit the batting to allow for any track feeder wires). Add trees, streetlights, people, cars, etc. and sprinkle Dept 56 snow around the layout on top of the batting material and you are done.
I hope that the attached photos help to explain this process.
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looks great so far - can hardly wait to see the finished product.
Danr posted:I use Fastrack myself and think it is great but, screwed directly to plywood and sitting on those tables the racket will be overwhelming. You might want to think about putting a piece of inexpensive carpet between the plywood and the track.
That is true about the noise. I like the look of the "snow blanket" based on previous years' projects and will probably consider adding flooring underlayment below that
Moonman posted:Hi G,
Always nice to see each year's creation. Here's some changes I made to your original plan for fitment. I used the FasTrack combo chart to get the straights to fit.
EDIToops! I missed the 48" wide part- this just makes it -check the attachments - they have been replaced.
Thanks. I will have to take a closer look. I can say that anytime I have pieced together track based on a SCARM design, it was always off by a little a bit
BobbyD posted:Very nice plan. Will you try something white for snow on the layout and under the tracks? Looking forward to more images!
I like the white "snow blanket" look. In the past, if I used two layers of snow blanket, it was enough to disguise unpainted wood. I was considering going with that approach again but I may do something different this time
HMorgan125 posted:For years I would set up three separate Dept 56 villages (Christmas in the City, Dickens' Village, and North Pole) and drill holes in the plywood bases to conceal the wiring. When I built my permanent layout with all three villages I found an easy way to save time and not drill or cut the wood base for the wires.
I placed all of the buildings where I wanted them and used white duct tape to tape the wires to the top of the wood base. If you can replace the single wires with Dept 56 multiple bulb wire strings (still available on e-bay) you will save even more time. Add roads, paths, water, ice features as needed and then cover all of the wires and other "ground" areas with sheets of white polyester quilt batting available at discount and fabric stores (sold in rolls). Cover wires from the base to a building with torn pieces of batting. Run the batting under the fastrack as well (this is a bit time consuming and you will need to slit the batting to allow for any track feeder wires). Add trees, streetlights, people, cars, etc. and sprinkle Dept 56 snow around the layout on top of the batting material and you are done.
I hope that the attached photos help to explain this process.
Thanks for the tips. Very nice pics of your layout. I am in a different house this year so my layout will be much bigger than in years past (search youtube for us98na to see previous layouts). I figure I will be able to fit in 12-14 Dept 56 houses and still have room left over for lots of accessories and scenery elements. Always nice to gain inspiration from others' layouts!
Everything is looking great, Garrett real nice layout, are you moving it inside or are you doing a outside layout this year?
Thanksgiving I will start to add to the Pine Creek Railroad Train Room again, have not had the time to even do any engineering for this years Christmas expansion.
All the best gentlemen
PCRR/Dave
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Pine Creek Railroad posted:Everything is looking great, Garrett real nice layout, are you moving it inside or are you doing a outside layout this year?
Thanksgiving I will start to add to the Pine Creek Railroad Train Room again, have not had the time to even do any engineering for this years Christmas expansion.
All the best gentlemen
PCRR/Dave
Dave, the driveway is just for cutting the plywood and doing the initial track fitment. I will be moving everything inside this week. My room is 13' 5" wide and my layout is cut to 13' 2". I am considering different solutions to slide or roll the table out from the wall because I can't lean over far enough to reach the back side.
Garrett76 posted:Moonman posted:Hi G,
Always nice to see each year's creation. Here's some changes I made to your original plan for fitment. I used the FasTrack combo chart to get the straights to fit.
EDIToops! I missed the 48" wide part- this just makes it -check the attachments - they have been replaced.
Thanks. I will have to take a closer look. I can say that anytime I have pieced together track based on a SCARM design, it was always off by a little a bit
Check in the Tools>Settings>Edit>Tolerances. I use .079 do not have fitment issues with track plans.
Awesome Garrett76, I like the track plan and I agree with how easier it is with the folding tables.
The snow fabric is transparent and I'm not a big fan of painting, so I decided to place two twin sheets on the wood under the snow fabric. One sheet is a fitted one which I cut off the elastic edge. They work fine as a substitute for painting the plywood
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tonight was supposed to be track assembly but surprise surprise Murphy had other plans. I am doing a "floating" track setup and planned to use these binder clips to hold the track together. Turns out, 3/4" is too tall and the track does not lay flat. Need to get 1/2" tomorrow
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I thought I was the only one who had Murphys help. Do you really need the clips under the fastrack. I always had good luck with the track staying together. looking forward to seeing all the buildings and lights. Nick
Garrett76 posted:
Found that out the same way - my Christmas trolley line is in an area where I can't screw any track down. 1 straight and the bumpers kept coming loose.
As far as the layout (17' x 15" -L-shaped), mine is on the white poly felt from JoAnn. I have only had one track joint try to get loose. I replaced it with another the fit tighter. No screws.
However, an ounce of prevention...
t8afao posted:I thought I was the only one who had Murphys help. Do you really need the clips under the fastrack. I always had good luck with the track staying together. looking forward to seeing all the buildings and lights. Nick
Yes, clips are absolutely needed. Found out when I pieced the Fastrack together at the outset of this to ensure that my SCARM plan fit on the wood I cut. Seemed that every time I tried to connect two pieces together, two other pieces would separate no matter how securely they appeared to be connected. I don't want to screw the track down because as soon as I do that, Murphy will give me a need to move the track around. I started thinking about ways to hold the track together and found an OGRR forum post from May 2016 about binder clips: https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/topic/fastrack-clips
Moonman posted:Garrett76 posted:Found that out the same way - my Christmas trolley line is in an area where I can't screw any track down. 1 straight and the bumpers kept coming loose.
As far as the layout (17' x 15" -L-shaped), mine is on the white poly felt from JoAnn. I have only had one track joint try to get loose. I replaced it with another the fit tighter. No screws.
However, an ounce of prevention...
Good info. I am considering a trolley line on another layout in a different room. I will get to that after this layout is finished and start a new/separate post for that layout
now that I have the correct clips, time to assemble the track. when I got to the last piece of O31 curve track, it had the regular tab and a broken tab in the middle rail slot. there is no way that I was going to disassemble everything and look for another piece (with missing tab) that would fit. So... I grabbed some pliers and broke off the tab from the adjacent track. There were other pieces with broken or missing tabs. Big question - would the electricity flow uninterrupted and would the train move when powered up???
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Congratulations Dr. Frankensteen!! Yes, I started using the binder clips last year, and they work great when you aren't attaching the track to a tabletop of some kind!
It's a nice swooping run that gives the impression that there's more going on. it will really take on a personality when place the scenic items on the layout. Running the long Hershey train on the same track with this engine pulling a train will look really cool. A timing challenge.
Garrett76, Great Christmas layout design. I really like it a lot.
My daughter and I created our candy car consist. Video:
That is one awesome candy train! You have collected a lot of very desirable cars, especially those LifeSaver cars.
Gilly@N&W posted:That is one awesome candy train! You have collected a lot of very desirable cars, especially those LifeSaver cars.
Thanks. There are just so many nice cars out there and not enough room to run them all. I had the complete set of Lionel North Pole passenger cars with reindeer names for a few years and let them go because I wanted to give priority to the candy cars
Here's a video of the full consist snaking through the front curves. Pretty cool look.
Running nicely, Garrett!
Looks good, so far. I'm looking forward to seeing your future progress.
I like the snake. I try to work one into any layout that I design where the idea will fit. I you keep this plan, do it with O60 next year. I try use O104 on scale layouts.
I call it "making the train dance".
Throw some 10" in the snake to gain a little more speed for the train. It will look more like a BOA than a garden snake.
Good fun! Keep it up!
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experimenting with 2018 A and snake. Cut the snake in half.
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Moonman posted:I like the snake. I try to work one into any layout that I design where the idea will fit. I you keep this plan, do it with O60 next year. I try use O104 on scale layouts.
I call it "making the train dance".
Throw some 10" in the snake to gain a little more speed for the train. It will look more like a BOA than a garden snake.
Good fun! Keep it up!
Thanks. Good tips! I may have to replace some Fastrack pieces after discovering many broken connector tabs. I had to break a few as well to compensate for tips lodged inside the rails
Added the Lionel North Pole Berkshire to the inner loop. This is my favorite Christmas engine. I like the visual appearance of the color scheme as well as the 2-8-4 wheel arrangement. Also, the sounds are great for a conventional loco. I like the 4 chuffs per cycle so much more than 2 chuffs.
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here's a video of the inner loop consist running
and here's a sound check video of the conventional Berkshire. Love the 4-chuffs/cycle and nice steam whistle sound. Brake squeal, too
Garrett, Yes indeed, that Berk is a really nice locomotive. Looks good and sounds good! The candy cars are great for Christmas.
Dont underestimate the clearance between tracks. I had dual tracks on my Ceiling Central RR. For months I thought I had them spaced good then something would hit. After several times of that over a couple years, I finally gave up and single tracked it this fall. Of course my problem was increased with only 7” head clearance between tracks mounted on shelves right at the top of the doors and a low ceiling. I couldn’t get a good view and it was hard to work on.
Leep up the good work
Mark Boyce posted:Garrett, Yes indeed, that Berk is a really nice locomotive. Looks good and sounds good! The candy cars are great for Christmas.
Dont underestimate the clearance between tracks. I had dual tracks on my Ceiling Central RR. For months I thought I had them spaced good then something would hit. After several times of that over a couple years, I finally gave up and single tracked it this fall. Of course my problem was increased with only 7” head clearance between tracks mounted on shelves right at the top of the doors and a low ceiling. I couldn’t get a good view and it was hard to work on.
Leep up the good work
Mark, thanks. I did run into a clearance issue and did not have more 1-3/4 and 1-3/8 pieces on hand to better remedy the situation. The change from 5.0 to 4.5 solved the immediate issue but I will have to pickup some smaller pieces next time I visit the LHS. I also discovered that one of the 4.5 pieces caused a short circuit when I applied a binder clip on the underside of the piece. It only caused problem on the right side, not the left. I didn't have the desire to troubleshoot last night, so just removed the binder clip and everything works fine. Every solution has a problem it seems.
Every solution has a problem it seems.
I agree! That is the way it seems to go!
I hope you supply Dramamine for the train crews!
Garrett,
LOL
Garrett,
on some track pieces the handle of the binder clip can touch hot and common. I added a piece of electrical tape to the offending area.
Just for fun, I worked-up a version of Garrett's design, adding some features that goes beyond his Christmas layout for a concept for a more permanent layout, adding reverse loops and cross-overs. Outside diameter is O44 compound - should run most O42 equipment. The inside route is O36 minimum. With easements of O48 and O72. The curving lower middle section is O72. Turnouts are O60 and O48. Add spurs where you like. -Ken
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here's a video of the inner loop consist running through the bridge
Here' a work in progress video of both trains running
The candy man can!
looking great Garrett!
I am making some incremental progress despite some major distractions. Placed a few more houses and scenery pieces. One thing that I think can really make it pop is a lot of trees. I would like to acquire many more, but even a few take the display to the next level
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Just my own opinion. The curves on the front of your layout are too severe. If you still kept the "S" curve at each end, but instead of more "S" curves, make it a straight away across the front, you could put some scenery or small structures in front of the straight away, giving some mystery to the whereabouts of the train and keeping it away from the front edge of the platform.
It’s looking great Garrett!
At one time we had a few ceramic buildings that they made for one side of a block. Now my wife has bought so many at thrift stores, I can only find room on our 4x7 for about a third of them. Thrift stores are a great place to find them and associated accessories
Dan Padova posted:Just my own opinion. The curves on the front of your layout are too severe. If you still kept the "S" curve at each end, but instead of more "S" curves, make it a straight away across the front, you could put some scenery or small structures in front of the straight away, giving some mystery to the whereabouts of the train and keeping it away from the front edge of the platform.
I like to experiment with different designs each year. Already considering something different next year
Mark Boyce posted:It’s looking great Garrett!
At one time we had a few ceramic buildings that they made for one side of a block. Now my wife has bought so many at thrift stores, I can only find room on our 4x7 for about a third of them. Thrift stores are a great place to find them and associated accessories
so many toys and not enough space!
LOL Garrett!! I guess when you have been in a hobby over 50 years like I have, stuff accumulates!
Awesome.
Thanks... Just what i needed. More ideas