Adding a front coupler to a mth railking with a falsey.

I think this is generally annoying with any engine that doesn't have an operating front coupler, it makes authentic operation a bit hard.

I have done this to a Railking Camelback. I will post some pictures later today.

I know in the Decapod Premiers MTH includes a standard non operating front coupler and all you have to do is remove a screw to switch it with the one that comes on the unit. This way it is easy to double head them. Maybe you could just purchase one of those couplers from MTH and figure how to mount it on your Railking engine. An operating electro coupler would be quite a mod.

I did this with a couple of RK 2-8-0's last year.
It was straightforward enough. I did post pictures with details, but that topic has long since been vaporized I guess.

Rod

Here are some pictures.
For the 2-8-0 all I did was dremel off the falsey, and file a flat spot for the mounting pad for the dummy.


Then I carefully marked and drilled and tapped the screw hole. I used flat black paint to cover all the shiny casting spots.


Here are the two 2-8-0's lashed up and ready to roll. I have kept them as a lashup ever since. The most critical thing is the height of the new coupler mounting pad. It worked great on the 2-8-0 once I removed the falsey, and I think yours would be similar.
The fixed coupler is a standard MTH part and comes with the mounting screw.


Hope that helps,
Rod

Looks good, Rod. Thanks for the pics and info!

Thanks to everyone! I ordered the new loco today and will prob convert the falsey on the Mikado I already have. I'll give MTH Parts a call tomorrow and order the coupler... just wondering if Kadee had anything for this kind of conversion. I'll have to check their web.

Doc

I'm still working on this project. I contacted Kadee and they suggested an 805. I'd prefer a scale coupler if possible. Anyone make have any experience installing the Kadee coupler?

Doc

hello guys and gals.........
can something like that be done on railking challenger ?
the woman who loves toy trains
Tiffany

One thing to beware of is the overhang on curves which can drag a loco off the track unless it somehow can be attached to the front pilot which would be extremely difficult. The bigger the curve, the better!

Looks great Rod!!! Where is the coupler from....I need to do the same to 3 I have!! Thanks

quote:

Originally posted by AMCDave:
Looks great Rod!!! Where is the coupler from....I need to do the same to 3 I have!! Thanks

MTH has them. The part # they sent me was DD-0000053. about $5 for the part and $7 and change for shipping.

Doc

I am thinking of doing this to a scale lionel 2-8-0 and wonder if there is anyone who has tried that. I will look under the pilot to see what the possibilities are. You did a great job on your project.

The scale 2-8-0 should have a mounting pad for the scale coupler. the dummy lobster claw should fit right onto that mounting pad.

Hmmmmm. I will take a look at the book that came with the loco to see if that is an issue. Thanks RoyBoy

I recall that when I bought this loco the "scale" coupler was on the loco but later was damaged. I don't have the other coupler. The front receiver for the couplers was damaged and is missing a portion to allow me to put any coupler in that small box. So I have to consider a plan B or just leave it but I would like to use it in switching manuvers. Thanks.

quote:

Originally posted by Tiffany:
hello guys and gals.........
can something like that be done on railking challenger ?
the woman who loves toy trains
Tiffany

Nothing should ever be in front of a Challenger. That might be considered injurious treatment (to the faithful).

I added a dummy coupler to the pilot of my MTH RK 2-8-0 so I could double head (NOT lash up!) my locos. Because I wanted them to stay connected I used a dummy couple off a old plastic truck. Mine swings enough to operate the locos on O-31 track.

Rod and Dave: Thanks for the info. I think I will try Rod's method.

One other option is to use a Kadee. I unscrewed the coupler that came with this engine and used a modified 806 Kadee. I epoxied it into the pilot. It works great. Kadee couplers work with traditional 3 rail couplers even though they are more scale sized.

This picture was taken before I epoxied it and the coupler is not canted up as it looks in the picture.

The dummy coupler I used is MTH PN DD0000053. Readily available and inexpensive.

Rod

Marker and Rod: Many thanks for the info.

I looked on the MTH website but was unable to find the part number that way. So, I called MTH and got a voice mail from Midge. She called me back today and I ordered two. The next challenge will be dremeling out a portion of the pilot and deciding what size drill bit to use for the mounting screw hole. Thanks for your help. I will post photos of my progress if anyone is interested.

Here's my Ralilking 2-8-0 with the short shank Kadee coupler and pocket:



and my Railking Imperial 0-6-0 with same:



Seems like all I had to do was get the front area flat and smooth and maybe added a shim to get it down to the correct height on the gauge. It sure wasn't something you need a degree in engineering to do.

BE WARNED...Once you stick a Kadee on there you'll soon be buying them in bulk to convert the rest of your fleet!!! (I know I did)

I received the MTH coupler a couple of days ago and completed the installation on my Lionel consolidation. It was my first time modifying anything on a loco. It was a challenge to cut out the broken housing, enlarge the space to allow the coupler to move to either side of center when on a curve. I used a drill as well to do some cuts and a file to even out some of the cuts. I shimmed the coupler so it was aligned with the couplers on my rolling stock. It was not a difficult project, but the metal on the loco was incredibly tough. The coupler works well so now I can use both ends of the the PRR consolidation for switching as I had before the coupler housing was damaged. Thanks for the advice.

quote:

but the metal on the loco was incredibly tough

I had to buy new Dremel bits prior to modifying my locos. Seemed like a file did a pretty good job though, except it took longer. I used the Dremel to remove the majority of the metal then the file to square things up. I guess the "right" tool would have been a milling machine, but they're a little expensive for onesies and twosies type jobs.