Adding Cruise Control to K-Line J1e Hudson?

Its about as easy as it gets. Lots of room. Other than soldering one wire its four screws on the board and two connectors.

Pete

Do I just need the ERR Cruise M?

Yes, The Cruise M was made for this. You can download the manual to see whats involved but both removing the shell and replacing the board can be done under 20 minutes for a first timer, half that after you have done one.

Pete

Awesome.  Thanks Pete!  I've done a few Cruise Commander installs so this should be as easy as you say!  I guess I just wanted verification that the Cruise M was it and would work with the TMCC boards in the K-Line.  I know they are Lionel boards but I just like some affirmation! 

I've done two of them, easy and worth doing with the Cruise M

I've purchased the cruise m for steamers!  Not sure what the for steamers is vs the standard but it's a steamer so I went for it.  Thanks guys!  Pictures coming!

As long as it doesn't have K-Line Cruise installed, it's very easy.  Sometimes the K-Line cruise module handles some lighting as well as the chuffing.  FWIW, I believe that ERR is migrating to a single board that works for all types of installs, there used to be two.  The diesel board wasn't suitable for a locomotive with the wireless drawbar.  Since you don't have a wireless drawbar, that really doesn't apply to your case.

It doesn't have any cruise installed as far as I know (unless it isn't working).  Boy is this engine good looking!  I cannot wait to get the cruise installed so going up the grades and around curves won't slow it down.  Not to mention rocketing down the downhill sections!  Putting one engine on your layout that doesn't have cruise makes you realize just how awesome that feature really is!

If it has the K-Line cruise, it'll have the tach ring on the flywheel, it's a slotted wheel like the Legacy speed control wheel.

Assuming it has not been modified by a previous owner its does not have cruise. K3270-5343S is the non cruise TMCC engine. K3270-5343CC is the Cruise version. The latter are fairly uncommon offered just before the demise of K-Line.

Tackindy, no worries. The Cruise M is the ticket here.

Pete

Can be done to either engine, the Hudson uses a cherry switch and it is a straight forward conversion.  G

I sent in my order to ERR so now we just wait.  Sigh.  

No word yet.  Just checked email, no word.  Sigh.  

Maybe I didn't see it I'll check again.  Nope.  Sigh.  

tackindy posted:

I sent in my order to ERR so now we just wait.  Sigh.  

No word yet.  Just checked email, no word.  Sigh.  

Maybe I didn't see it I'll check again.  Nope.  Sigh.  

I ordered a Railsounds board from them a few months ago. No updates but it arrived in the mail in about 5 days. Patience grasshopper.

Pete

I think back to the K-Line Tank Engine, it needed a chuff switch added to replace the K-Line cruise.

Ok, I've installed but it's erratic.  Takes off sometimes and stops others.  

I think the problem may be the serial data wire.  It didn't say to cut it or anything so I put it as shown in the picture.  

Is this correct? The problem is that after a single run around the layout it stopped twice, and once I increased the speed it ran again. But twice it took off at full speed and I had to stop it with my hand as the speed control wheel did nothing.   

It appears you have the serial line connected to the correct pin on the mother board but your connection is suspect. It would be better if you cut the wire from that connector about 1" - 1 1/2" back from the connector. Strip both ends plus the end of the blue wire and use a wire nut to tie all three together.

Check the Cruise M manual again and look at the example of the K-Line Allegheny. It has the same motherboard connector.

When finished, after addressing the engine move the speed dial until 1 blink on the Command base or speed step one on the Cab2 and see if it moves. If not its either not seeing serial data or if using Legacy control you have not set the engine to TMCC or Cab1.

Pete

I normally route the wire neatly and cut it to length and solder it directly to pin-24 of the R2LC socket.  You can solder it under the MB to insure you have no interference with the R2LC insertion.  Having a good connection there is key, so do that first.

Thanks for the responses guys!  It is MUCH appreciated!  

I haven't had a chance to get back in there and work on it as I've been busy (an 8 month old will do that you know).  But as soon as I can I'll do a better job of soldering the wire to the connection.  Gunrunner, I was thinking of going direct to that post but the example showed that connection as in the example so I was "testing" with it first.  And yes the wiring job is pitiful as I was just trying to make sure that was the correct connection before cutting and soldering into place all the wires.  I guess the other wire on that connector can be cut off as it is not used?   Pete, thanks for that troubleshooting info!  I'll be using it!  

But anyway, once I'm done I'll update you guys.  And as always, THANK YOU!  

I generally remove unused wires with the pin intact in case I need a pin on a wire in the future.