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Depends: For electrical and general train repairs I have some small (Facom) straight screwdrivers and some for JIS screws (Whia) along with some smaller phillips and straight from Craftsman, long needle nosed, mini needle nosed, and small diagonal cutters, two very small Vise Grips (2LN & 4LN), a Weller soldering station, a dual range Weller soldering gun, flux, solder with silver, a small brass hammer, 3 or 4 metric hex drivers(Whia), a 5 prong grabber, steel rulers 6" and 16", Dremel with speed control & mostly cut off discs and a polishing wheel, assorted X-Acto knives, assorted small drill bits, electric drill and a hand drill, two Zona saws.

I did all my bench work with a level, tape, hammer, screwdriver, and hand saw.

For scenery  and track work -- pretty much all of the above along with some putty knives, mat knives, a silk screen roller and lots of paint brushes including some quality artists brushes, for a pallet i used any pieces of cardboard that were handy, for painting scenery i used cheap acrylics from WallyMart that i blended on the pallet to get the colors i wanted

Last edited by modeltrainsparts

I suspect most of us have a ton of tools when you stop to take inventory.  Mine are organized at to where they most often get used.  Obviously, my main workbench where I do a lot of repairs has the most often used tools.  When you really get to thinking about it, you probably use a lot of tools in the course of a week if you're doing a lot of repairs, layout work, etc.

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To my left is another work table where I have a toolbox with less often used tools, more parts drawers, glues, etc.

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In the back room to my right is my larger tool box with heavier tools, as well as a couple of workbenches, drill presses, grinders, polishers, saws, etc.

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Geojr posted:

Tweezers.  Gotta have tweezers

Probably have 20-25 of them in all sorts of sizes and shapes.

Hemostats are something I can't do w/o on my bench!  Scalpels - 5-6 different ones.... 4-5 pin vises..... A battery powered Dremel..... A variable speed drill press....

But, most importantly - 1/4" glass work surfaces.

good suggestion . must get a glass work area, pin vises.My biggest problem is I have a jig saw, radial cut saw, & vice but they are in my garage where it is so colddec thru march, I dont use them. I have 2 kitchen tables as worktables in my cellar, 1 would be good for the cut saw. But, how to control saw dust all over?

bucca posted:

good suggestion . must get a glass work area, pin vises.My biggest problem is I have a jig saw, radial cut saw, & vice but they are in my garage where it is so colddec thru march, I dont use them. I have 2 kitchen tables as worktables in my cellar, 1 would be good for the cut saw. But, how to control saw dust all over?

I rarely need a large power tool for building models.  Only large power tool that sees any real use for model building is a 12" band saw; 80" x 1/2" blade, to cut some larger bits of wood that I'm too lazy to cut by hand.

Every now and then it is worth catching up on new or improved tools. The whole world of soldering has gotten cheaper and better with modern soldering stations, portable exhaust fans to keep the rosin smoke out of your lungs, de-soldering guns instead of the old "pull-the-spring-back-and hope" things and so on. For those working with extruded styrofoam for scenery, the tools are evolving and getting cheaper--worth keeping an eye out for. I'm sure there's lots more I have missed.

Don

 

Tom Tee posted:

Most all of the above except the band saw.  Almost had one when I owned a Craftsman band saw.    Termites cut wood more accurately than my Craftsman BS.

 

I had that band saw too...I found a scroll saw easier to cut without drifting. It was adequate for most things. 

johnstrains posted:
Penn-Pacific posted:

Precision screwdrivers are an absolute necessity when working on model trains;

 

 

+ 1 on these! 

This Hozan set of JIS screwdrivers recommended by another forum memebr is the best tool purchase I have made.

These grip the screws much better than the old standard philips heads:

Image result for hozan jis-4

Add to that the Wiha magnetizer for the screwdrivers, and train repairs are a breeze:

Image result for wiha magnetizer

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It's not just the tools, it's knowing how to use the tools. 

Amen, GRJ. It's like the old story of the person who brought his car with a rough-running engine to the mechanic. In five seconds, the mechanic turned one bolt, fixed the problem and charged the customer $50.

"Fifty dollars for turning one bolt? I could have done that myself," the irate customer said.

The mechanic replied,  "It was only $1 for turning the bolt; the other $49 was for knowing which bolt to turn."

Last edited by Joe Connor
gunrunnerjohn posted:

I haven't had major issues with the Skil bandsaw, you just have to recognize it for what it is, an inexpensive tool.  However, I get pretty good results with it, and as Dale suggests, the blade choice makes a big difference.

Yes, blade choice is very important.  A relatively inexpensive bench top band saw from Sears/Craftsman.   

Safety meeting of the day, all these tools come with safety precautions, read/and understand before using all associated material that comes with any tool.   The pretty lady, (47 years my wife, is best with all her fingers). 

Mike CT posted:
gunrunnerjohn posted:

I haven't had major issues with the Skil bandsaw, you just have to recognize it for what it is, an inexpensive tool.  However, I get pretty good results with it, and as Dale suggests, the blade choice makes a big difference.

Yes, blade choice is very important.  A relatively inexpensive bench top band saw from Sears/Craftsman.  

While it is inexpensive, I have found use of mine for 30+ years to be quite good. One does have to install the correct width blade (1/2" - 1/8") for proper use to get optimal results. One also has to take the time to adjust all of the guide blocks, rollers, and properly tension the blade.  I have found that nearly all problems with power tools tend to end up being filed under the heading of ID-10-t user errors. I have the scars to confirm that observation,

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