Just a quick word on Banking curves.
the correct term is super elevation.
Non technical explanation: one increases the outside rail height to bank the curve Track inward. I used wooden clothes pins (the kind with a spring) trimmed off. As such they were used as shims Inserted under the outside edge of the track ties.
just say’in.
it always fascinates me to watch the engine and train cars lean into the curve in their travel especially close to the edge. Use caution if tried. This is not a common practice to have less Edge buffer real estate.
I have used banked curves on my O27 layout for 40 years. I used cut off popsicle sticks, one then two and back to one layers . I recently got a Lionel 561, 0-8-0 loco and it derailed on many curves. I found if removed the banking on those curves all was well. I removed banking on at least one half of them.
I noticed my train racing daughter derailed the Marx 1998 much more often on a recent visit.
Charlie
I have about 3-4 inches. 1) I normally do not run my trains fast. 2) The outside rails are O84 curves, I have run an MPC B&M GP-9 at full speed and it did not jump the track ( it was just a test to see how well it was operating, seeing I had just bought it and wanted to test it out. here is a pic of my only straight away not along a wall. Note this was during construction mode.
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You just need enough room to make sure that your train will not fall off.
A little story...I was doing some photos for OGR and wanted some long exposure shots of a speeding Berkshire passenger train. The long exposer would blur the train to make it look like it was really going fast. The only track that was next to the edge of the layout was a short siding about three feet long that I though would be safe because of the length. I would never run a train fast on that short of a siding. WRONG! I started the train out fast and around it went. What I didn't know was the siding was open. I was shooting the shot and not anywhere near the transformer. I watched my then new K-line scale Berkshire hit the bumper and fly off the layout on to the cement floor. Two months later and a lot of money I got it back from Brasseur Trains and it ran fine. I will never build any rail close to the edge again. Couldn't believe I left that siding open. Don
That's what I mean Don, . . .Stuff Happens!
And with kids running the trains, . . . Somethin's Gonna Happen!
Allow enough room to avoid this.
And this:
@scale rail posted:A little story...I was doing some photos for OGR and wanted some long exposure shots of a speeding Berkshire passenger train. The long exposer would blur the train to make it look like it was really going fast....
If you ever have to do this again, it isn't necessary to run the train fast. If you set the camera correctly, running it slowly will give the same blurred affect.
A long shutter speed (1 to 2 seconds) and small f-stop will do the trick.
Accidents are a part of this hobby. As posted before, I'd recommend making sure there is no overhang and go with that distance. At least that's what I've done.
-Greg
I will say that it really depends on your confidence. Are you going to run everything at full speed? if you do then expect a derailment or a turn over.
When I was a youngster, I did that on purpose. Full out, Now, I am very careful not to run at full speed, unless I am trying to beat it into the next block. But still I am very aware of curves.
Your layout, you can decide how you will operate.
@Rich Melvin posted:If you ever have to do this again, it isn't necessary to run the train fast. If you set the camera correctly, running it slowly will give the same blurred affect.
A long shutter speed (1 to 2 seconds) and small f-stop will do the trick.
I can second this. I made this shot in late February or early March with the engine at 45 Legacy speed steps, which I think is something like 10 or 15 scale mph. With 1/8 sec shutter speed, it looks like she's going 70!
(ignore the warm white balance, didn't know I was shooting in daylight mode at the time lol)
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Another reason to have more space between the track and the edge is if your run multiple trains on the same track. If a train gets rear-ended, cars jack-knife and go everywhere. If they're close to the edge, some are going to take a trip to the floor.
Just a thought.
@TrainMan1225 posted:
(ignore the warm white balance, didn't know I was shooting in daylight mode at the time lol)
Not a problem. Two minutes in Photoshop...
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I had a steam locomotive travel well over a foot on the train board before taking a nose dive to the floor when it hit a misaligned switch. It still sports a broker headlamp. Under the right set of circumstances a loco or car can manage to travel a fair distance after leaving the tracks. It is less about what is the minimum distance to keep your locos and cars safe and more about what is a reasonable tradeoff between keeping them safe and giving up real estate that could be used to enhance enjoyment. For me that balance is usually about 3". If you are that worried about your trains ending up on the floor I would suggest putting wall of plexiglass around the layout.
