Intermittent anti derail feature operation

The anti-derailing feature works best under fixed voltage.

Rusty

I thought that might be the case but I had heard that the signal bulbs get hot and tend to melt the lantern covers.  Do you use LEDs and do you like them ?

There are a host of things to do to 022 switches to insure reliable operation.  One of the key failure points are all the crimped connections under the switch track base.  I take a Dremel wire brush to all the crimped connections, and then solder them to insure a good connection.  FWIW, I do this to Fastrack switches as well, it seems Lionel hasn't learned the lesson of crimped connections vs. real connections!

Yeah, so depending on the type of engine, and load on it, you might not be running enough voltage through the rails to get the switch to throw every time.  Also, diesels with traction tires can be a problem.

Jon

Study the O22 switch manual found HERE.  Aside from what John said, make sure the two connecting strap pins on the switch base, as per page 3 of the manual, are making good contact with the switch motor contact points.  Operate the switches at 14v. fixed, and read the information found at this LINK.

Good luck!

Pete

Jonsuponski posted:

I thought that might be the case but I had heard that the signal bulbs get hot and tend to melt the lantern covers.  Do you use LEDs and do you like them ?

Not if there's vent holes in the top of the lantern. 

In the 1980's I would bring a layout to shows, ran it for 8-9 hours straight.  I used the anti-derailing feature to automatically route the train from the main to the passing track every other orbit.

Never melted a lantern housing and had few misfires.

Rusty

If lantern bulb heat is a real concern of yours you can wire a 1N4003 diode in series with the bulb from the fixed voltage plug to the wire at the base of the bulb.

Pete

Texas Pete posted:

If lantern bulb heat is a real concern of yours you can wire a 1N4003 diode in series with the bulb from the fixed voltage plug to the wire at the base of the bulb.

Pete

I like this idea, as it would effectively drop voltage to the bulb by half.  I'm curious why a 1N4003, though, as opposed to a much easier to find 1n4001?  The only difference is the voltage rating, and when it comes to track voltage 50 volts is just as good as 200.

In reality any 1n4001-4007 will do the same job.  

JGL

 

If lantern bulb heat is a real concern of yours you can wire a 1N4003 diode in series with the bulb from the fixed voltage plug to the wire at the base of the bulb

I'm curious why a 1N4003, though, as opposed to a much easier to find 1n4001?

any 1n4001-4007 will do the job.  

Looks like you answered your own question.  The 4003 was very easy to find, Mouser or Digikey, can't remember which.

Pete

If you are adding the diodes, do half with one polarity and the other half with the diodes reversed.  This will keep from building up a DC current component in the transformer that can cause problems.  (The same rule applies for dimming in-car lighting.)

I find that the biggest problem with the derailing sensing is the points at which those metal runner strips are soldered to the derail-sensing track section.  Solder is a poor mechanical joint, and vibration causes the joint to crack.  I add a short loop of flexible stranded wire from the strip to the rail.

I like the LEDs with the conical inset to push the light sideways.

The reason I use the higher voltage rated diodes is voltage spikes may take out the lower rated ones more often.

Put the track voltage up  higher . Try pushing a car through  the non-derailing feature. Does it work better? You can also extend the insulated rail used for  the non derailing feature by insulating one outside rail on  tube track.