Is There a Way to Split the Output of a 180 watt Brick?

Yes you can but it will take a custom wye adapter to do it without cutting and splicing wires. I'm doing exactly what you want to do on my Christmas layout. you can get the molex connecters from mouser or digikey and make your own.

Ron

Thanks Ron. If you get the time can you share the part numbers for the molex connectors from either supplier?

Yes I'll be glad to.

Ron

Here's what you need.

http://www.alliedelec.com/sear...il.aspx?SKU=70190679

http://www.alliedelec.com/sear...il.aspx?SKU=70190783

http://www.alliedelec.com/sear...il.aspx?SKU=70190616

This gives you the male and female housing and the male pins. The female pins are down the page a little. Order lots of each as they come in handy for all kinds of projects like you own.

Ron

I just tap into the output of the brick for my similar setup. I use the PowerMaster for train control(conventional, obviously) and the brick output for a 19 volt fixed bus powering all remote switches on the layout(I don't use the lighted controllers, and all switches have LED bulbs.

My method is crude, but costs nothing and works perfectly. I just wedge a stripped end of a 16 gauge wire bent into a "J" into the center socket in the 3 pin Molex connector from the brick and hold it as I plug it in to the PowerMaster so it rides in along the mating pin making the connection. The common connection(s) can be made at the "U" terminal post of the PowerMaster.

Well I finally got around to ordering the molex parts today. I think I will make a 1 to 3 adapter  for next years Christmas setup and add another loop. Thanks for all your help!

I bought the Power master and 180 Watt "brick" but they do not work together, I can get the power house to work with any other Supply but not the Brick. The voltage shows 17.9 from the brick, and there is sufficient current to run accessories. anyone else had any problems please, I will be emailing Lionel later on tomorrow due to seven hour time difference. But thought I would just ask.

Thanks guys and by the Way Happy New Year

The PowerHouse "brick" IS the supply, the PM-1 PowerMaster only serves as a controller and, except for when it is in Command mode and putting out full brick voltage, can only be expected to put out current when addressed and controlled by a CAB-1. The default address for the PM-1 is TR-1, but it can be programmed to TR-1 through TR-9.

If the PM-1 was previously used, it could have been programmed with a CAB-1 to a "stall" voltage level, which is a user-selected minimum value.

My brick is plugged into my Legacy Powermaster and I've been alternating between conventional and command mode with it on the loop under the tree depending on the loco. I used Engine 1 to program it (but TR works also) which under conventional allows me to vary the voltage using the Legacy 990 set. As Rob states, the PM puts out full voltage in command mode for command equipped locos. Also, a TMCC Powermaster will not work with a Legacy set without what they call a Powermaster Bridge. I guess the question is what flavor your Command Control is (TMCC or Legacy) and also your Powermaster?