Lessons learned the hard way....In is In...Out is Out...Numbers have consequences!

Ed, maybe we're not understanding each other.  There is nothing in the DCS "base", the TIU, to be backed up.  All data is in the remote, if you have a remote.  So the computer gets hooked into the TIU, the computer program started, and then just follow the on-screen instructions and the data gets stored in the computer.  What would a wifi do?  If you are using wifi, the data is in your tablet/phone/whatever, so there is no need to back it onto a computer.

I have two wifi units on mt layout, left over from when I was beta testing the system.  Never use them, preferring the remote as easier to operate 4-6 trains on intersecting routes.

RJR...I understand.  I like the WiFi DCS interface.  I still would prefer the Lionel Legacy Backup approach to schlepping computers around, but, that's me.

Ed,

I just read a few things that aren't right:

First a TVS does nothing for a DCS signal issue. It only works to help protect from shorts.

Second you don't have to delete your engine to change the address. Menu/system/engine setup/ edit engine/edit address and you can change it to what you want.

I would suggest you make a list of your engine addresses to keep from getting duplicates causing trouble.

You are right that Super Glue alone won't fix your cradle in your remote, but I've used Lightning Bond with Lightning Fill years ago on my first remote from 2006 and it still works GREAT! All it is is Super Glue with small glass beads. I just built it up thicker at the break by putting a drop of Supper Glue at the break and then adding the fill and then another drop of Super Glue a couple of times until it is strong enough. Some say you can use baking soda in place of the Lightning Fill, but I still have some Fill left.

I just got some Bondic Repair plastic weld with a LED UV light that might work also, but I haven't used it on anything yet. It looks promising though.

P.S. I also agree with Robert (RJR)

@John H posted:

I have bad news for you. Changing the cradle won't be that easy, as you have to take off the circuit board to get it off. It would be simple if it came out the opposite way, but noooooo. I believe John and David described their methods in the other thread. I gave up on mine until I have a calmer day.By the way, Ed, you can just change an engine's remote address without deleting and adding it back in.

John, I didn't fully appreciate your comment until I started the process to remove and replace the thumbwheel.  I could not figure out how to get the circuit board assembly out of the broken cradle...so, I resorted to brute force:

Then I couldn't get the circuit board assembly into the new cradle.  I reread your comment...now I understand!

I've replaced several cradles, once you do it once, it's no problem.  You don't have to destroy the old cradle to get the board out, but you do have to remove the soldered wires.

Ed, try a little crazy glue'.....see if you can put it back together'...

Ed, You used my brother's philosophy, "If it don't fit, force it!"  He manhandles everything.  I don't ask him to help with anything.  Hmmm...smart man!! 

I'm glad you got the idea.  I'll be doing it myself one of these days.

I broke a cradle a couple of years ago, so I got a new one from MTH. I replaced the broken one and super glued the old one and put it in parts. I bought a used remote a few months ago from another forum member that worked fine, except that the detent was gone on the thumbwheel, so I replaced it with the glued one. That one is still working after two months, but I ordered one from Midge to be safe. The first one I bought was $15 and $15 for shipping. This one is $20 and $9.75 for shipping. Go figure. I will try to follow John's description and try to unsolder the board and have an extra cradle from the no-detent wheel as a covid project this winter.

@Quarter Gauger 48 posted:

Ed, try a little crazy glue'.....see if you can put it back together'...

Too funny.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I've replaced several cradles, once you do it once, it's no problem.  You don't have to destroy the old cradle to get the board out, but you do have to remove the soldered wires.

Thanks John. I’ll do that tomorrow before the election results start coming in.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I've replaced several cradles, once you do it once, it's no problem.  You don't have to destroy the old cradle to get the board out, but you do have to remove the soldered wires.

John, your tip was the key.  What I found was after removing the three wires attached to that little 'circuit' board that sits atop of the thumbwheel mechanism, I also had to remove the board from that mechanism.  Then I could get it out put that into the new cradle then reverse the process. Soldered the board back on the mechanism and soldered the three wires back onto the board.  Sealed it up and now it works again....  As you said, once you've done it, no problem.  However, I hope I never have to do it again! 

Once again the folks on this Forum are an invaluable resource...thanks to all that helped me.

Ed, did you have to use a solder wick to be able to reinstall the board? I was able to remove the little board, but there is still solder in the holes.

I'll give you a little tip on removing the solder from the holes.  As long as there's nothing delicate on the board, heat the hole and then just "rap" the board on the bench, the solder will clear the hole.  Solder wick is frequently a PITA to get solder out of the holes.

I just got this month's dollar's worth from the forum----a tip from Gunrunnerjohn!

Shame on you, John.  Any advice from GRJ is worth more than that.  Just my 2¢.  $1.02 at least

My point was meant to be: Forum for the month, $1. Tip from John, Priceless! 

Amen, Bro

@John H posted:

Ed, did you have to use a solder wick to be able to reinstall the board? I was able to remove the little board, but there is still solder in the holes.

I used a solder sucker. Worked OK.

Be somewhat careful with the solder sucker.  It's possible to suck traces up with the solder, especially if you're not using the correct heat on the iron.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Be somewhat careful with the solder sucker.  It's possible to suck traces up with the solder, especially if you're not using the correct heat on the iron.

Thanks for the caution. I hadn't realized that.